Help determining offer prices for a 68 and 72 "project" C3
#1
Help determining offer prices for a 68 and 72 "project" C3
I’ve had the bug for a C3 for a long time- been a lurking member of this forum since 2010, but other things in life got in the way of buying one. I’m a “tinkering” kind of guy and always wanted a project C3…and now have the time and energy to take a project on.
I recently found two C3 project cars local to me – both from the same seller and both in rough condition. One is a 68 convertible, the other a 72 coupe. The 72 is more complete than the 68 but both will need a lot of work just to get them to a “driver” condition. Apparently a prior owner was attempting to restore the 68.
The current seller acquired these two C3s and there is no history on them from prior owners. I had a chance to look at them today.
These C3s have been in a workshop shed for the past 10 -15 years. Neither are running nor do I know the last time they ran. I assume the previous owner was working on them over the past years.
Here’s the info on each:
72
• 36,681 miles – but not confirmed if actual
• Pretty much a base vehicle - 350 (200hp) with 4 speed manual – has matching engine number, was not able to check drivetrain
• Engine and drivetrain complete
• Bird cage checked at kick panel – appears to have surface rust only without any rust cancer
• Frame – looked to be solid
• Non – running, but all fluids looked clean and topped off (could not get any accessories to work either - think it has electrical problems)
• Has very poor paint – don’t think it’s original (Elkhart Green)
• Glass good and T-tops
• Rubber seals for doors/t-tops/windows have deteriorated
• Fiberglass body appears solid and could not find any “buba” repairs. There is a crack in the front right fender well about 3 inches long. Looks recent and may have happened in transport to current owner.
• Chrome bumpers pitted
• Door handles broke
• Appear to be new tires all around with original or knockoff wheels
• Interior shot – from seats to door panels to carpets…just about everything needs replaced except dash and steering wheel
68
• 21,345 miles – don’t think this is actual miles…can’t confirm yet
• Pretty much a base vehicle - 327 (300hp) with 4 speed manual – has matching engine number, was not able to check drivetrain
• Engine and drivetrain complete
• Bird cage checked at kick panel – was clean and painted black as was the frame. Makes me wonder if the bird cage and frame were “restored” lately
• New gas tank
• Non – running, but all fluids looked clean and topped off (could not get any accessories to work either - think it has electrical problems)
• Body paint (Red) – sanded/prepped – still very rough
• Convertible vinyl top is shot – frame appears good
• Rubber seals for doors/windows have deteriorated
• Fiberglass body appears solid and could not find any “buba” repairs
• Chrome bumpers pitted
• Door handles broke
• Tires/wheels are mismatched
• Interior shot – from seats to door panels to carpets…just about everything needs replaced except dash and steering wheel
I really could use some help from you guys on understanding their value so I can make an offer for one or both of them. What do you think?
Thanks in advance
I recently found two C3 project cars local to me – both from the same seller and both in rough condition. One is a 68 convertible, the other a 72 coupe. The 72 is more complete than the 68 but both will need a lot of work just to get them to a “driver” condition. Apparently a prior owner was attempting to restore the 68.
The current seller acquired these two C3s and there is no history on them from prior owners. I had a chance to look at them today.
These C3s have been in a workshop shed for the past 10 -15 years. Neither are running nor do I know the last time they ran. I assume the previous owner was working on them over the past years.
Here’s the info on each:
72
• 36,681 miles – but not confirmed if actual
• Pretty much a base vehicle - 350 (200hp) with 4 speed manual – has matching engine number, was not able to check drivetrain
• Engine and drivetrain complete
• Bird cage checked at kick panel – appears to have surface rust only without any rust cancer
• Frame – looked to be solid
• Non – running, but all fluids looked clean and topped off (could not get any accessories to work either - think it has electrical problems)
• Has very poor paint – don’t think it’s original (Elkhart Green)
• Glass good and T-tops
• Rubber seals for doors/t-tops/windows have deteriorated
• Fiberglass body appears solid and could not find any “buba” repairs. There is a crack in the front right fender well about 3 inches long. Looks recent and may have happened in transport to current owner.
• Chrome bumpers pitted
• Door handles broke
• Appear to be new tires all around with original or knockoff wheels
• Interior shot – from seats to door panels to carpets…just about everything needs replaced except dash and steering wheel
68
• 21,345 miles – don’t think this is actual miles…can’t confirm yet
• Pretty much a base vehicle - 327 (300hp) with 4 speed manual – has matching engine number, was not able to check drivetrain
• Engine and drivetrain complete
• Bird cage checked at kick panel – was clean and painted black as was the frame. Makes me wonder if the bird cage and frame were “restored” lately
• New gas tank
• Non – running, but all fluids looked clean and topped off (could not get any accessories to work either - think it has electrical problems)
• Body paint (Red) – sanded/prepped – still very rough
• Convertible vinyl top is shot – frame appears good
• Rubber seals for doors/windows have deteriorated
• Fiberglass body appears solid and could not find any “buba” repairs
• Chrome bumpers pitted
• Door handles broke
• Tires/wheels are mismatched
• Interior shot – from seats to door panels to carpets…just about everything needs replaced except dash and steering wheel
I really could use some help from you guys on understanding their value so I can make an offer for one or both of them. What do you think?
Thanks in advance
#2
Melting Slicks
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IMHO, I feel it's more worthwhile to restore a something upstream from a base model. It takes the same time and about the same money to restore a more desirable car. That '68 with AC, the higher hp 327/350 and of course a 427 would be more fun for a lot of people and therefore have a higher value.
The same goes for the '72. A convertible top, big block or an LT-1.
Save your money a little longer, with a little more patience find a more desirable model or at least a car that is farther along in a restoration process.
The same goes for the '72. A convertible top, big block or an LT-1.
Save your money a little longer, with a little more patience find a more desirable model or at least a car that is farther along in a restoration process.
#3
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Hi M,
Welcome!!
Considering an old Corvette! Good for you!
But, WOW, you're looking at 2 rough cars.
Both cars are VERY NEEDY and will require a LOT of TIME, A WIDE RANGE OF SKILLS, and a LOT OF MONEY.
Both cars likely have 100,000 miles + the 'showing' miles on them.
Do you have the amount of time and range and level of abilities to do what needs to be done to make these 2 'real' cars again?
I'd say perhaps $3000 or $4000 for the 72 and $5000 or $6000 for the 68 should be tops.
Again, do you really understand what taking on either of these will mean in terms of the time and $$$ outlay?
Regards,
Alan
Welcome!!
Considering an old Corvette! Good for you!
But, WOW, you're looking at 2 rough cars.
Both cars are VERY NEEDY and will require a LOT of TIME, A WIDE RANGE OF SKILLS, and a LOT OF MONEY.
Both cars likely have 100,000 miles + the 'showing' miles on them.
Do you have the amount of time and range and level of abilities to do what needs to be done to make these 2 'real' cars again?
I'd say perhaps $3000 or $4000 for the 72 and $5000 or $6000 for the 68 should be tops.
Again, do you really understand what taking on either of these will mean in terms of the time and $$$ outlay?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 04-30-2017 at 06:55 AM.
#4
Drifting
I would want to get a better look at the frames on either. I'm no expert but I think both would make good projects....Do you have the room, time and money.....? You will most likely wind up upside down in either or both. You might buy both and part out one to help with the funds to restore the other.
Brian
Brian
#5
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#6
Thanks guys I really appreciate the comments and guidance on these project cars – exactly what I needed to hear! These darn cars are so intoxicating – you see one (like the shape these are in) and you want to bring it back to life!
Z06LMB - I have the time and resources to restore these, but to your point – there are more desirable cars to invest time and money in that will be more valuable in the end given the same amount of effort and money that would be put into these “base” cars.
Alan 71 – thanks for your estimate of what these two are worth “as is”. That’s about the ballpark I was thinking. I probably could get these for less than that estimate, but even if I got both for say a total if $5k they probably still aren’t worth restoring given the point above about time and money on a “base” car. Sounds like these two are not more than part cars.
Easy Mike – the seller has no emotional connection to these cars and is not a C3 guy. Seller understands that they are not worth a lot in their current condition and is looking to me (I know the seller well) to come up with a fair price.
Z06LMB - I have the time and resources to restore these, but to your point – there are more desirable cars to invest time and money in that will be more valuable in the end given the same amount of effort and money that would be put into these “base” cars.
Alan 71 – thanks for your estimate of what these two are worth “as is”. That’s about the ballpark I was thinking. I probably could get these for less than that estimate, but even if I got both for say a total if $5k they probably still aren’t worth restoring given the point above about time and money on a “base” car. Sounds like these two are not more than part cars.
Easy Mike – the seller has no emotional connection to these cars and is not a C3 guy. Seller understands that they are not worth a lot in their current condition and is looking to me (I know the seller well) to come up with a fair price.
#7
Thanks guys I really appreciate the comments and guidance on these project cars – exactly what I needed to hear! These darn cars are so intoxicating – you see one (like the shape these are in) and you want to bring it back to life!
Z06LMB - I have the time and resources to restore these, but to your point – there are more desirable cars to invest time and money in that will be more valuable in the end given the same amount of effort and money that would be put into these “base” cars.
Alan 71 – thanks for your estimate of what these two are worth “as is”. That’s about the ballpark I was thinking. I probably could get these for less than that estimate, but even if I got both for say $5k they probably still aren’t worth restoring given the point above about time and money on a “base” car. Think these two are not more than part cars.
Easy Mike – the seller has no emotional connection to these cars and is not a C3 guy. Seller understands that they are not worth a lot in their current condition and is looking to me (I know the seller well) to come up with a fair price.
Z06LMB - I have the time and resources to restore these, but to your point – there are more desirable cars to invest time and money in that will be more valuable in the end given the same amount of effort and money that would be put into these “base” cars.
Alan 71 – thanks for your estimate of what these two are worth “as is”. That’s about the ballpark I was thinking. I probably could get these for less than that estimate, but even if I got both for say $5k they probably still aren’t worth restoring given the point above about time and money on a “base” car. Think these two are not more than part cars.
Easy Mike – the seller has no emotional connection to these cars and is not a C3 guy. Seller understands that they are not worth a lot in their current condition and is looking to me (I know the seller well) to come up with a fair price.
#9
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Hi m1,
For me, the 68, being a 4-speed convertible, would be more than enough reason to become interested in it…. IF it's not at all rusty and is quite complete.
While it would be 'nice' if it were a 327/350, the fact that it a 300 hp car wouldn't deter me AT the right price.
The fact is though that the car will take a lot of work and skill and the $$$ will have to be carefully watched the whole way in order to not have the result be that you have WAY too much in it rather than just a LITTLE too much.
Whoever takes it on better understand exactly what they're getting in to!
Regards,
Alan
For me, the 68, being a 4-speed convertible, would be more than enough reason to become interested in it…. IF it's not at all rusty and is quite complete.
While it would be 'nice' if it were a 327/350, the fact that it a 300 hp car wouldn't deter me AT the right price.
The fact is though that the car will take a lot of work and skill and the $$$ will have to be carefully watched the whole way in order to not have the result be that you have WAY too much in it rather than just a LITTLE too much.
Whoever takes it on better understand exactly what they're getting in to!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 04-30-2017 at 07:03 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
As in most projects, you need to define your goals first.
- Do you want to restore them to NCRS/Bloomington standards?
- Do you simply want a nice running C3 Corvette?
- Are you looking for something as a basis for a slightly hot rodded or modded Corvette?
- Are you looking for something for yourself on a long term/short term ownership?
- Are you looking to flip and make some money?
Many more questions to ask yourself.
If you want to flip, then you will be upside down once they are really nice.
Restoring them will take a lot of money as there is a lot to do.
If just for you and having a nice car, the '68 convertible will be more fun as a coupe with no air conditioning can be hot.
The '68 will have more issues restoring due to some '68 only items being harder or more expensive to get.
The look of the engine of the '72 is definitely over 100,000 miles. The wear on the '68 isn't 100,000+ miles but it isn't 21,xxx either. I suspect 50-75,000 and that the odometer isn't working or the speedometer has been disconnected or broken during some of its life.
Alan is probably right on the value of each.
BTW, the tires could look new and be 30 years old. Don't trust them, replace with new ones before driving anywhere.
- Do you want to restore them to NCRS/Bloomington standards?
- Do you simply want a nice running C3 Corvette?
- Are you looking for something as a basis for a slightly hot rodded or modded Corvette?
- Are you looking for something for yourself on a long term/short term ownership?
- Are you looking to flip and make some money?
Many more questions to ask yourself.
If you want to flip, then you will be upside down once they are really nice.
Restoring them will take a lot of money as there is a lot to do.
If just for you and having a nice car, the '68 convertible will be more fun as a coupe with no air conditioning can be hot.
The '68 will have more issues restoring due to some '68 only items being harder or more expensive to get.
The look of the engine of the '72 is definitely over 100,000 miles. The wear on the '68 isn't 100,000+ miles but it isn't 21,xxx either. I suspect 50-75,000 and that the odometer isn't working or the speedometer has been disconnected or broken during some of its life.
Alan is probably right on the value of each.
BTW, the tires could look new and be 30 years old. Don't trust them, replace with new ones before driving anywhere.
#11
Melting Slicks
I think both are worthwhile candidates for restoration. If they are solid!!!
price, Im the worst guy in the world to put a dollar figure on a project car, but 5-6k for either would be my limit knowing what I know after doing mine.
If you want the satisfaction of bringing a long neglected car back to life, and making it nice, figure 25k. I turned down a quite nice 73 recently for 10k.it was a cream puff to those two. It had good paint but was in need of all bushings, tires, front bumper, and incidentals. I know it would have cost me 5-6k to put it right, plus shipping to my location. Right at the limit of what it was worth all done.
price, Im the worst guy in the world to put a dollar figure on a project car, but 5-6k for either would be my limit knowing what I know after doing mine.
If you want the satisfaction of bringing a long neglected car back to life, and making it nice, figure 25k. I turned down a quite nice 73 recently for 10k.it was a cream puff to those two. It had good paint but was in need of all bushings, tires, front bumper, and incidentals. I know it would have cost me 5-6k to put it right, plus shipping to my location. Right at the limit of what it was worth all done.
#12
As in most projects, you need to define your goals first.
- Do you want to restore them to NCRS/Bloomington standards?
- Do you simply want a nice running C3 Corvette?
- Are you looking for something as a basis for a slightly hot rodded or modded Corvette?
- Are you looking for something for yourself on a long term/short term ownership?
- Are you looking to flip and make some money?
Many more questions to ask yourself.
- Do you want to restore them to NCRS/Bloomington standards?
- Do you simply want a nice running C3 Corvette?
- Are you looking for something as a basis for a slightly hot rodded or modded Corvette?
- Are you looking for something for yourself on a long term/short term ownership?
- Are you looking to flip and make some money?
Many more questions to ask yourself.
#13
I think both are worthwhile candidates for restoration. If they are solid!!!
price, Im the worst guy in the world to put a dollar figure on a project car, but 5-6k for either would be my limit knowing what I know after doing mine.
If you want the satisfaction of bringing a long neglected car back to life, and making it nice, figure 25k. I turned down a quite nice 73 recently for 10k.it was a cream puff to those two. It had good paint but was in need of all bushings, tires, front bumper, and incidentals. I know it would have cost me 5-6k to put it right, plus shipping to my location. Right at the limit of what it was worth all done.
price, Im the worst guy in the world to put a dollar figure on a project car, but 5-6k for either would be my limit knowing what I know after doing mine.
If you want the satisfaction of bringing a long neglected car back to life, and making it nice, figure 25k. I turned down a quite nice 73 recently for 10k.it was a cream puff to those two. It had good paint but was in need of all bushings, tires, front bumper, and incidentals. I know it would have cost me 5-6k to put it right, plus shipping to my location. Right at the limit of what it was worth all done.
Yes - satisfaction of bringing a C3 back to life aside, I need to be careful if I do this, as you and others point out, that the expense does not exceed what a similar C2 would cost me.
#14
Instructor
I would think you could get a better deal by buying both for about $5,000. This makes it easier for the seller to just walk away. And, he's looking at $5,000. in one lump sum. Keep the 68 & either sell the 72 or part it out to recover some of your investment. If you're lucky, the 72 might be started with little work. Then it can sell for a lot more than if it was dead.
I'd buy both, then flip one. Good luck, Tim
I'd buy both, then flip one. Good luck, Tim
#15
Drifting
What can you buy a nice restored, ok maybe frame on restored, base chrome bumper car for?
Low 20's all day long.
If you want a car to drive, buy one that you can drive.
If you want something to work on because you have too much free time in your life, then go for it.
I restored my 72 base and the whole time I thought if I had gotten an LT-1 or BB - as long as the engine components were there, it wouldn't be costing me any more to restore and would be worth 1.5 to 2 times more.
I could have bought 3 running driving cars for what I put in mine.
Don't do it ...unless you REALLY want to do it.
Low 20's all day long.
If you want a car to drive, buy one that you can drive.
If you want something to work on because you have too much free time in your life, then go for it.
I restored my 72 base and the whole time I thought if I had gotten an LT-1 or BB - as long as the engine components were there, it wouldn't be costing me any more to restore and would be worth 1.5 to 2 times more.
I could have bought 3 running driving cars for what I put in mine.
Don't do it ...unless you REALLY want to do it.
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20mercury (05-01-2017)
#16
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#17
Burning Brakes
2 good cars to buy, clean up as best as possible and quick flip. Sell the dream, forget the nightmare.
It would be very easy to have 2 years of your free time spent with the end result being you have $30k in a $20k car.
If you could know that they at least start and run, that would be a major step in the right direction. But as it looks, you have no way of knowing if the engines will even turn over. I have experienced the hard way buying a Corvette that had been in storage that looked like it just needed some cosmetic freshening and paint. Found out that a mouse crawled up the tailpipe, found an open valve and lived inside a cylinder until he died. After 2 years of soaking, that piston is still frozen inside the cylinder and reminds me everyday that you can never assume the engine will start with a fresh battery and gas.
IF you can buy them cheap, they are still good flip cars though
bigredbrad
It would be very easy to have 2 years of your free time spent with the end result being you have $30k in a $20k car.
If you could know that they at least start and run, that would be a major step in the right direction. But as it looks, you have no way of knowing if the engines will even turn over. I have experienced the hard way buying a Corvette that had been in storage that looked like it just needed some cosmetic freshening and paint. Found out that a mouse crawled up the tailpipe, found an open valve and lived inside a cylinder until he died. After 2 years of soaking, that piston is still frozen inside the cylinder and reminds me everyday that you can never assume the engine will start with a fresh battery and gas.
IF you can buy them cheap, they are still good flip cars though
bigredbrad
#18
Melting Slicks
*&%$@!! Mice !
2 good cars to buy, clean up as best as possible and quick flip. Sell the dream, forget the nightmare.
It would be very easy to have 2 years of your free time spent with the end result being you have $30k in a $20k car.
If you could know that they at least start and run, that would be a major step in the right direction. But as it looks, you have no way of knowing if the engines will even turn over. I have experienced the hard way buying a Corvette that had been in storage that looked like it just needed some cosmetic freshening and paint. Found out that a mouse crawled up the tailpipe, found an open valve and lived inside a cylinder until he died. After 2 years of soaking, that piston is still frozen inside the cylinder and reminds me everyday that you can never assume the engine will start with a fresh battery and gas.
IF you can buy them cheap, they are still good flip cars though
bigredbrad
It would be very easy to have 2 years of your free time spent with the end result being you have $30k in a $20k car.
If you could know that they at least start and run, that would be a major step in the right direction. But as it looks, you have no way of knowing if the engines will even turn over. I have experienced the hard way buying a Corvette that had been in storage that looked like it just needed some cosmetic freshening and paint. Found out that a mouse crawled up the tailpipe, found an open valve and lived inside a cylinder until he died. After 2 years of soaking, that piston is still frozen inside the cylinder and reminds me everyday that you can never assume the engine will start with a fresh battery and gas.
IF you can buy them cheap, they are still good flip cars though
bigredbrad
D%*# *&%$@!! MICE ! Must have been a whole litter crawled in the 08 air duct and died, never could find them and did not want to take the C6 dash apart. We have 8 cats too, lazy bums! must be feeding them too much Meow Mix!
#19
The rag top is the choice here, but as the members before me have said $$$$$$$ and lots of it to restore, not to mention the time and equipment. As long as you are good with that, you're good to go.
Dave
Dave
#20
Safety Car
I would rather restore a convertible, over a coupe any day.
much easier to work on a convertible,
vs crawling around in the back of the coupe is very difficult.
much easier to work on a convertible,
vs crawling around in the back of the coupe is very difficult.