Ac



It's nearly SOP to replace both the expansion valve and accumulator/drier in a system that hasn't worked for any length of time. The expansion valve is easy to replace--the accumulator/drier is an utter pain.
1. Keep the system as-is; get it repaired and recharged. R-12 is a more expensive refrigerant, but it is still available and you may only need to add some R-12 every few years, if the system is in good shape.
2. Buy the hardware kit to change over to R-134a. Somewhat expensive to do what is 'proper' to convert. Requires that your system be cleaned/flushed to rid any R-12 before installing R-134a.
3. There is a way to keep the system as-is, but swap over to 134a. It requires adding a special additive to the refrigerant (R-134a) which allows some residual R-12 to still be in the system and mix with the new refrigerant. I don't know the downside of doing this. Maybe others will chime in.
Personally, if your existing hardware is still in good shape, I would just have it checked out, vacuumed down to assure good sealing, and recharge with R-12.
1. Keep the system as-is; get it repaired and recharged. R-12 is a more expensive refrigerant, but it is still available and you may only need to add some R-12 every few years, if the system is in good shape.
2. Buy the hardware kit to change over to R-134a. Somewhat expensive to do what is 'proper' to convert. Requires that your system be cleaned/flushed to rid any R-12 before installing R-134a.
3. There is a way to keep the system as-is, but swap over to 134a. It requires adding a special additive to the refrigerant (R-134a) which allows some residual R-12 to still be in the system and mix with the new refrigerant. I don't know the downside of doing this. Maybe others will chime in.
Personally, if your existing hardware is still in good shape, I would just have it checked out, vacuumed down to assure good sealing, and recharge with R-12.
As long as everything is working correctly, you shouldn't have a problem with 134.
You must be thinking about LA-LA land....
I spend half my life working on A/C systems...9 cars you know.
Fallacies/myths/Bunk/BS= CFC134 is not as cold as R-12.....horse droppings!
1978 VW Scirocco....York piston compressor. System OPTIMISED for CFC134.....output air temp (with certified thermocouple) 27° F at 110° F outside air temp....try THAT R-12.
Standard R-12 output 40°-42 F
People like to 'blame' CFC134....when they just don't understand the AC system.
A/Cs are set up with a capillary tube so as NOT to freeze the air and moisture in the evap core. This is why they are set at the factory at 40-42°...just above freezing.
This is a system that can be manipulated. You can buy other orifice tubes as well.
Fix what you have VERY well and OPTIMISE THE SYSTEM.
flapper doors sealing?
Hot air intrusion?
Heater core shut off completely and or equipped with a by-pass?
EVERY MOLECULE of air that can be rammed thru the condensor core IS?? Heavy duty fan? Clutch?
ENTIRE A/c system purged of old oil and debris?
Evap core clean as a whistle? Cond core ditto??
There are dozens of things you can do to get REALLY COLD air out of CFC134....I can prove it!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
You must be thinking about LA-LA land....
You might have to do some searching....but it's out there. (I buy it in 6 -packs).
Greetings from Planet Crematoria.
Last edited by L-46man; May 3, 2017 at 10:39 AM.


















