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my stock Lt-1 distribitor is dead, and i want to replace it. Unfortunatly i don't find anything else than other rebuilt distributor at crazy price...
So im wondering what should i pick ? since i can't afford something at 1000$
any other distributor/ignition system that can fit a 71 Lt-1 with no perf loss ?
for 300/400~ $
my stock Lt-1 distribitor is dead, and i want to replace it. Unfortunatly i don't find anything else than other rebuilt distributor at crazy price...
So im wondering what should i pick ? since i can't afford something at 1000$
any other distributor/ignition system that can fit a 71 Lt-1 with no perf loss ?
for 300/400~ $
What is "dead" about your distributor ? Do you have a T.I. ignition ? Is the T.I. pickup coil dead? Is the main shaft/tach gear stripped ?
What is "dead" about your distributor ? Do you have a T.I. ignition ? Is the T.I. pickup coil dead? Is the main shaft/tach gear stripped ?
Yes its the stock T.I ignition
At first i though it was the coil so i changed it, but when i ran the car i heard noise...
Then checked the distributor and i understood that the coil was hiting the other part while spining because the distributor doesn't rotating properly on his own axis.
It ruined a bit the new coil... the old coil was used to rotate bad this is why he wasn't making any "hit" sound (don't know if you understand my english sux, im french)
The distributor seem's to have several used, worn parts he's 40 years old.
I don't know if i can "rebuilt" it, i may not have the good tools and in France very few people to work on this if i can't do it.
I believe you need a distributor main shaft (what you call "axis"). The tach drive teeth look chewed up to me. There are kits available to rebuild your distributor.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jun 13, 2017 at 02:28 PM.
I believe you need a distributor main shaft (what you call "axis"). The tach drive teeth look chewed up to me. There are kits available to rebuild your distributor.
Yes i changed the pickup coil already, this is how i found my issue... since with the new pickup coil, the rotor was hitting his edge, the old coil was worn already.
Last edited by TheFranch; Jun 13, 2017 at 03:26 PM.
While the distributor shaft may show some surface wear, the bushings inside the distributor housing are what is likely worn. The shaft is much harder than the bushings and should not wear (unless metallic trash is being circulated with the oil).
These bushings are readily available and are fairly easy to install. I highly recommend that you have your distributor housing repaired and rebuild the original distributor for the car. When rebuilt, that distributor will be as good as new. The electronic ignition system for that car (T.I. system) is very good and is a super asset to an original LT-1 car; in fact, it would be detrimental NOT to have it on your car [based on 'value' of the car].
These bushings are readily available and are fairly easy to install. I highly recommend that you have your distributor housing repaired and rebuild the original distributor for the car. When rebuilt, that distributor will be as good as new.
My original distributor housing had worn bushings. The consensus amongst the experts (not including me, because I am certainly no expert) was that new bushings need to be align-bored together in order for the shaft to rotate properly, aka working fine and lasting a long time. They did not know of anybody that still had the necessary tooling to do that correctly. Therefore, I replaced the housing with a known good one. Didn't even keep the metal tag. It solved my problems, but then again...I am not revving my engine to 6500 rpm.
Perhaps you can enlighten the OP in France as to where he can send his original distributor housing for a guaranteed fix, including return freight both ways?
Perhaps you can enlighten the OP in France as to where he can send his original distributor housing for a guaranteed fix, including return freight both ways?
If the new bushings are made properly (center hole concentric with the bushing O.D.) then just using a reamer to get final bore size should be no big deal. You don't need big equipment for that. And since the two bushings fit into the same bore in the housing, both should be properly aligned with each other after being reamed.
If the new bushings are made properly (center hole concentric with the bushing O.D.) then just using a reamer to get final bore size should be no big deal. You don't need big equipment for that. And since the two bushings fit into the same bore in the housing, both should be properly aligned with each other after being reamed.
Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill....
I agree, I rebuilt my dist (earlier points model) and it was not that big a deal to fit new bushes, any competent machinist should be able to do this for you if you can't. Just tell them its for an old chevy and not a Corvette else the price seems to often go up!
I rebuilded my TI Ditributor today and i have some technical question, please check the picture if you don't understand what im trying to explain.
after rebuild everything properly(i guess) i have the pole piece that hit the edge of the pick-up coil when i turn the came on itself... the came turn well withiout any "move" she's well tight in the distributor, (i didn't forget any screw or else)
The wole things seem's really weird i doubt the pole piece is supposed to hit the pick-up coil edge everytime it turn... and if i simulate the move from the distributor pump the hits between the pole piece and the pick-up coil are getting worse since the pick up coil move on itself (i have to loosen him or the pump couldn't make his action)
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