C-3 Bumper car body off - questions
#1
Always wrenching
Thread Starter
C-3 Bumper car body off - questions
So I do have a thread already started but this one is pretty specific to lifting the body and the questions around that.... I've researched now for a few hours (so many resources on this site and so little time) Trying to avoid this becoming a time vacuum where I spend as much time researching as doing... so here goes:
Lifting the body off - there are so many options, I've viewed here. Because I have ample space, I am lucky enough to have been able to purchase earlier this year both a 2 and 4 post lift, so I have either at my disposal
2 post
4 post
So I am definitely out when it comes to debating the merits of either as I've seen happen in several of threads I read this morning in my unsuccessful search of the answer to the following question....
My specific question is when I look at the edge of the car with rocker panels removed, there just is very little room between the frame and the body
seems like no room here to position the arm on the sill
same here - realize I don't have the car/post perhaps completely positioned but there's a razor thin margin here right?
Lifting the body off - there are so many options, I've viewed here. Because I have ample space, I am lucky enough to have been able to purchase earlier this year both a 2 and 4 post lift, so I have either at my disposal
2 post
4 post
So I am definitely out when it comes to debating the merits of either as I've seen happen in several of threads I read this morning in my unsuccessful search of the answer to the following question....
My specific question is when I look at the edge of the car with rocker panels removed, there just is very little room between the frame and the body
seems like no room here to position the arm on the sill
same here - realize I don't have the car/post perhaps completely positioned but there's a razor thin margin here right?
#2
Always wrenching
Thread Starter
Continued...
For some reason the posting didn't like all the pictures??
I found three or four photos that show Vette's being lifted using a two post
Walt Thurn's book recommends it and shows the following accompanied by the caption " the pads should be placed directly on the steel channel of the birdcage that runs beneath each door
Then a C2 forum poster mentioned and showed his and state he's done this more times than he cares to recall - very successfully
My question is whether there is some trick to ensure you're lined up on what looks to be a razor thin piece of metal? Also it appears that the pad will be barely on the edge of this thing right?
What am I missing here?
I found three or four photos that show Vette's being lifted using a two post
Walt Thurn's book recommends it and shows the following accompanied by the caption " the pads should be placed directly on the steel channel of the birdcage that runs beneath each door
Then a C2 forum poster mentioned and showed his and state he's done this more times than he cares to recall - very successfully
My question is whether there is some trick to ensure you're lined up on what looks to be a razor thin piece of metal? Also it appears that the pad will be barely on the edge of this thing right?
What am I missing here?
#3
Always wrenching
Thread Starter
Last question.... The post was about a C3 bumper car - so that's one other thing I noticed... Several body off's (regardless of how) showed the car on a dolly with the headlights and front and rear urethane bumpers still in place. Is this acceptable or should one really remove the headlights and bumpers?
My plan is to mount it on a dolly (probably like Alan 71's) and ship it the body shop for paint - is it better to leave the bumpers etc in place then?
My plan is to mount it on a dolly (probably like Alan 71's) and ship it the body shop for paint - is it better to leave the bumpers etc in place then?
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
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Hi,
Here's a photo of a body being put back on the chassis using a 2 post lift.
There's just enough room to securely grab the lip of the rocker channel and still have the arm clear the side of the frame rail.
But, do it in a way YOU feel comfortable and SAFE.
Regards,
Alan
Disregard the pointing hand!
Here's a photo of a body being put back on the chassis using a 2 post lift.
There's just enough room to securely grab the lip of the rocker channel and still have the arm clear the side of the frame rail.
But, do it in a way YOU feel comfortable and SAFE.
Regards,
Alan
Disregard the pointing hand!
#5
Always wrenching
Thread Starter
[/QUOTE]
Wow! that is tight tolerance isn't it?
Thanks Alan - again many thanks!
Wow! that is tight tolerance isn't it?
Thanks Alan - again many thanks!
#6
Burning Brakes
I used what appears to be the same brand 2 post lift. However I didn't feel comfortable trying to get the pads to hook onto the rocker channel with such a small margin for error. I swung the arms in above the car an ran 4 ratchet straps down and hooked those into the rocker channels. It was completely fail safe with those hooks under there. I then raised the lift and was still able to adjust a little with the ratchet straps. Just another option.
Ned
Ned
#7
Safety Car
Member Since: May 2004
Location: los altos hills california
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Here's my rig. I figured the door column was pretty sturdy and attached to that and the rocker channel. Took a bit of shaping to fit the contour of the body but this turned into a one man job to but the body on and off a couple of times. I was a bit concerned that there might be some torque on the arrangement but the secondary L-shaped setup turned out to be redundant.
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25thToi (03-26-2018)
#8
Burning Brakes
I have used a two post lift to remove and replace the body both on a T-top and convertable. I use lifting straps on each arm to hook on the body and it works great. That way in can be a one or two person job. I always have my better half helpimg so that makes it easy and safer.
#9
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
having a lift is the ticket!
Took my body on/off a few times myself with an engine hoist
Your friends will be busy the day you need help every time.
Took my body on/off a few times myself with an engine hoist
Your friends will be busy the day you need help every time.
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25thToi (03-26-2018)
#10
Always wrenching
Thread Starter
OK guys,
Finally finished the body dolly and now it's time to pull this thing apart - (still can't believe I am going through with this!)
Body doily built and ready to go
Anyhow, I appreciate all the comments to the thread about the lift off, I think I asked this in another thread but didn't get much in reply...so here goes...
As a qualifier, I already have two hard copies of the AIM and the Walt Thurn book on how to restore a C3 but Concerning a rubber bumper C3 is it best to remove the bumpers before lift off??? Thoughts?
Finally finished the body dolly and now it's time to pull this thing apart - (still can't believe I am going through with this!)
Body doily built and ready to go
Anyhow, I appreciate all the comments to the thread about the lift off, I think I asked this in another thread but didn't get much in reply...so here goes...
As a qualifier, I already have two hard copies of the AIM and the Walt Thurn book on how to restore a C3 but Concerning a rubber bumper C3 is it best to remove the bumpers before lift off??? Thoughts?
#11
Race Director
I think the frame should be removed before you lower the body onto the dolly...
#12
Safety Car
I am with Bandit above
We just put my body back on the chassis using a two post and
straps cut from the sling you see in catalogs
It worked great
I am about to put the straps up for sale
If you are interested let me know
Glenn in San Diego
We just put my body back on the chassis using a two post and
straps cut from the sling you see in catalogs
It worked great
I am about to put the straps up for sale
If you are interested let me know
Glenn in San Diego
Last edited by gleninsandiego; 03-27-2018 at 12:38 AM.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '10
I use a Harbor Freight gantry crane straddling my four post lift. I developed and had sewn a set of four straps for the gantry. I purchased and use two trolley's on the gantry. Each trolley holds two straps with hooks on one end, curved body lifts on the other end that go under the body birdcage. I then lower the lift and the body stays up on the straps. I use two straps on the nose as well once the body is airborne for additional support on the nose.
When putting body back on the chassis you roll the chassis up on the lift, you can move the body side to side to adjust, and lower the body by raining the chassis on the lift.
Go slowly, take your time, enjoy the adventure.
David
When putting body back on the chassis you roll the chassis up on the lift, you can move the body side to side to adjust, and lower the body by raining the chassis on the lift.
Go slowly, take your time, enjoy the adventure.
David
#16
Always wrenching
Thread Starter
C3 Rubber Bumper -Frame off Question
Guys,
I honestly do not know where the time goes! Looking back over this thread, it was a year ago that I decided to go full frame off on this car and unfortunately the progress has not been great but... steady I guess..
In that original thread, I asked the following question...
[QUOTE=25thToi;1594971192]Last question.... The post was about a C3 bumper car - so that's one other thing I noticed... Several body off's (regardless of how) showed the car on a dolly with the headlights and front and rear urethane bumpers still in place. Is this acceptable or should one really remove the headlights and bumpers?
I did another search today of the forum and just cannot find info/recommendations on whether the bumpers have to come off before the body comes off the frame or not...
To answer the upfront qualifier questions:
Yes, I have an AIM (several copies actually - shop, home and electronic)
Yes, I have the GM books (Fisher Body etc.)
Yes, I have the Walt Thune Book on restoring a C3
Sure appears like removing the bumpers are the safer way to go. So my questions are:
I have the car pretty much to the point where the next steps are to remove the bumpers (based on the above) and then the 8 body to frame bolts and we're set to go!
Hoping to do this before the end of the month, any input from the wealth of knowledge on here is always appreciated!
I honestly do not know where the time goes! Looking back over this thread, it was a year ago that I decided to go full frame off on this car and unfortunately the progress has not been great but... steady I guess..
In that original thread, I asked the following question...
[QUOTE=25thToi;1594971192]Last question.... The post was about a C3 bumper car - so that's one other thing I noticed... Several body off's (regardless of how) showed the car on a dolly with the headlights and front and rear urethane bumpers still in place. Is this acceptable or should one really remove the headlights and bumpers?
I did another search today of the forum and just cannot find info/recommendations on whether the bumpers have to come off before the body comes off the frame or not...
To answer the upfront qualifier questions:
Yes, I have an AIM (several copies actually - shop, home and electronic)
Yes, I have the GM books (Fisher Body etc.)
Yes, I have the Walt Thune Book on restoring a C3
Sure appears like removing the bumpers are the safer way to go. So my questions are:
- WHat's the best way to remove the front and back bumpers on a 78?
- Is there a way to remove the front headlights mostly intact? I really dont need to touch them
I have the car pretty much to the point where the next steps are to remove the bumpers (based on the above) and then the 8 body to frame bolts and we're set to go!
Hoping to do this before the end of the month, any input from the wealth of knowledge on here is always appreciated!
#17
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St. Jude Donor '10
I took the bumpers off the car, yes. Where they connect to the frame can be tricky if the bumpers are still attached, in my opinion. The picture I posted showed me lifting a 77 with the bumpers off. Easy Peasy.
Good luck with your decision.
David
Good luck with your decision.
David
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25thToi (06-18-2018)
#19
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St. Jude Donor '10
#20
Instructor