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How many different colors and "styles" of C3 glass T-tops are there? Will T-tops fit the entire range from 68-82 or is there ranges of years that are compatible?
How many different colors/finishes were there?
What's the going price for a single glass T-top and how likely is it/ how long are you to have to wait to find a single T-top's matching partner?
I'd honestly prefer to go with an Astrotop to save weight, but a neighbor has a mirrored glass passenger T-top for what I think is dirt cheap. -They haven't owned the car for almost 10 years and the t-top has just been sitting in the garage.
I bought the Mirrored ones back when I had my 68 Coupe before I sold and Bought my 68 Convertible. They Kinda bugged me because they weren't flush, they looked like they sat on top of the Roof. Mine in Particular Came from Eckler's Part Number 34264 - They Were $1078 with the Coupon I used. They Cost $1275 without any Coupon.
I believe I just sold them on eBay as I didn't like the look.
Pics
Last edited by Kruegmeister; 07-31-2017 at 08:11 PM.
I bought a set of mirrored tops from a guy who has sold his vette several years prior. My 75 had the 2 latch system while the new tops have the 1 latch system where a pin is thrust out the rear at the time the front latch is engaged. I simply removed the triangle bolt the rear of the old tops sat on and exposed a hole that the lock pin for the new tops could engage, works very well.
M1131 blue tinted glass tops are apparently the most difficult ones to find a "set" of. If you do, they're usually for sale at a premium. Single tops can be had cheaper, but the blue tint will likely be different. M1131 I believe, but dont quote me on it, are 78 and later availability.
Single latch tops were available 78 and later. I dont think there was a "factory dual latch glass top" produced. Any car with a glass double latch was retrofitted to work (ie 77 and earlier cars).
There are "tempered" and "laminated" glass tops, one is more durable than the other, but I'm not positive as which is which, so you'll have to research that aspect. If I were to guess, tempered would be the more durable.
Search "Melrose glass corvette t tops" and you'll find a decent explanation of all the glass tops on the Melrose website, but it doesn't look like it gets updated very much, I don't even know if they're still in operation or not.
I have a near perfect set of original M1131 tops (forget if the date codes match or not) that Ive been offered $1300 on the spot for, but I was at a car show 300 miles from home, and didn't really want to run that far home topless in case it rained (and it did, almost the whole way actually. They're on a shelf collecting dust for the last 5 years.
Glass mirror tops came in bronze and blue that I know of. Today reproduction tops go for $800-$1,000 per "set." Original mirror tops in good condition, can go for $1,000 - 1,300 "per side."
The tops were supposed to be an option for 1977, but there was a dispute between GM and the manufacturer. It was resolved when the manufacturer was allowed to market a similar type roof called a "Moon Roof." It was identifiable by the body colored border abound the glass, where as the GM version was all glass. The all glass GM tops became an option in 1978, and the Moon Roofs were also made available to fit 77 and earlier C3's. Some dealers sold Moon Roofs as accessories, when glass/mirror roofs were temporarily suspended in 1978 due to excessive breakage of the glass. This may be why they went from tempered to laminated, or vice versa. Here is a photo of an aftermarket "Moon Roof."
GM glass roofs are not designed to fit flush at the rear outside corner, like the fiberglass tops do. People trying to make them fit flush, may have been the cause for a lot of the breakage. GM later put a warning sticker on the glass when shipped from the factory. Here is a photo of the warning sticker.
I've got original blue mirrored tops on my 1978, and have turned down offers of $1,500 for the set. They came off an 82 Collector's Edition, are laminated, and date coded May 81.
Here is a photo which shows how the rear outside corner does not sit flush with the rear roof panel.
Last edited by Rky Mtn C6; 08-02-2017 at 01:48 AM.
When I did my 81's body refurb/paint, I purchased a pair of fiberglass tops to repaint as well because I didn't like the look of the glass tops either.
When all was said and done the glass tops look great with the new paint, non-painted rocker panels and the new wheels. All the black painted trim was left the nartural metal color. All of a sudden the glass tops was the only way to go.
And I really do like seeing sky when I look up while driving.
Here is a link to my thread about matching T-Top color:
Help! Ok so my neighbor's ttop is the correct style for my car and are the shiny silver on the outside and blueish on the inside; they do say m1131. But....
It needs new seals ($80 per top), new outer trim ($210 for 2 tops) AND the part I don't know about: a metal strip under the weather sealing is completely rusted out. The inside looks great.
I got gun shy and said I'd have to figure out what it would cost me to fix it first.
See rust; what is this part called so I can figure out how much it costs to replace it? LoF blue laminated
They only want $100 for it but the parts to fix it aren't cheap and I'll still have to find a drivers side. Part of my thinks I should just shut up and buy it but I just don't know.
That rusted part is part of the weatherstrip, so it will come with the new one. $100 is a steal.
$100.00 is a steal..BUT...the four Phillips head screws that hold the w/stripping the area where you have the rusted retainer CAN be a bit troublesome.
IF you buy these and replace the w/strip....pay VERY CAREFUL attention to the w/strip where is located on the straight run by your two guide pins.
This area is CRITICAL and BEFORE you take off the old w/strip...carefully install the t-tops and look at how the w/striip goes and seals to the center stainless trim. Look at how it is being compressed.
The factory latex w/strip and a thin 'spine' made into it that holds the push pins and when you install the tops...this thin spine allows the tops to fit and be able to be clamped WITHOUT feeling like you are going to snap your top in half....BECAUSE the w/strip can compress easily due to its structure and the 'spine' is not thick and dense.
SO...like I wrote....pay very careful attention and do not be surprised that IF you buy weatherstrips that are not like what you ahve...they may not function correctly...and you will know this IF you do one top at a time and try to install it.
The reason I took the time to write this is that those tops are worth big bucks and I would HATE to see you snap one due to NOT knowing what to look for or carefully pay attention to.
The first thing I do when I have t-tops to replace the w/strips on is make sure I can get the four screws to break loose and come out...IF I feel they were going to be a problem due to rusted heads that the screwdriver will not work in or seized up......,while the customer is standing there..I let them know that the price of installation just went up drastically....or they can take them back home.
Or----You can avoid all the hassle and expense to refurbish one top and buy the set that I have listed for sale in the parts section of the forum. They are in excellent condition and only need to be put on your car.
"I've got original blue mirrored tops on my 1978, and have turned down offers of $1,500 for the set. They came off an 82 Collector's Edition, are laminated, and date coded May 81."
Then they aren't Collectors Edition tops. CE's were strictly the bronze - and only available in '82.
I have a purchased set of mirrored tops. They have LOF in box and Laminated printed on them. They have fiberglass surrounding the mirrored glass. The pins in rear are latch type ( move in and out with lever like front latch. I have three questions: Does anyone know where I can buy the t bar pins. These are plastic on mine and bolt pattern is not like factory pins. 2. The corner pins are plastic with retainer in chrome. The factory t top pin bolt pattern does not match. 3. Can I just remove the triangular bolt for pin to insert, or is there a better adaptation?
Thanks in advance
David
I have a purchased set of mirrored tops. They have LOF in box and Laminated printed on them. They have fiberglass surrounding the mirrored glass. The pins in rear are latch type ( move in and out with lever like front latch. I have three questions: Does anyone know where I can buy the t bar pins. These are plastic on mine and bolt pattern is not like factory pins. 2. The corner pins are plastic with retainer in chrome. The factory t top pin bolt pattern does not match. 3. Can I just remove the triangular bolt for pin to insert, or is there a better adaptation?
Thanks in advance for your answers
David
Hey NewbVetteguy,
Thanks for the thread. Learning plenty from this post. These were on my Vette when I got it. Was about to spray tint on them. Don’t care for the bronze color. Looks gold to me. Think I will wait, until I figure out what I have.
07-31-2017, 04:56 PM
C3 Glass T-tops: Learn me!
$100.00 is a steal..BUT...the four Phillips head screws that hold the w/stripping the area where you have the rusted retainer CAN be a bit troublesome.
