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My 74 has gone through a partially complete restore. I installed Hooker Headers/side pipes as well. Has anyone posted the best covers to reduce the heat transfer upon exiting the car? I can watch out but unsuspecting riders will definitely have some burns! Powder coat did not help. Thanks.
Last edited by danhartnett; Aug 1, 2017 at 12:27 PM.
Depends on your liking and your wallet. $500 vs cobra $300.
I went with the Steel shields (dean's shields). They are very high quality stainless, will never rust and I can put my hand directly on them after driving, or idling with no burn. They are 36" long. If you do get the cobra's, from personal experience, I would say you probably don't want the short 29" ones. Chromed metal will eventually rust as well.
Depends on your liking and your wallet. $500 vs cobra $300.
I went with the Steel shields (dean's shields). They are very high quality stainless, will never rust and I can put my hand directly on them after driving, or idling with no burn. They are 36" long. If you do get the cobra's, from personal experience, I would say you probably don't want the short 29" ones. Chromed metal will eventually rust as well.
Not trying to hijack as I do want side pipes on my big block '70. But I don't want chrome headers. Anyone know of a kit to make the side pipes hook up to factory original GM headers? Any after market iron headers that work well? And as usual, thanks letting me tap into the famed Forum members resources.
Loud (but not obnoxious)
Depends on your liking and your wallet. $500 vs cobra $300.
I went with the Steel shields (dean's shields). They are very high quality stainless, will never rust and I can put my hand directly on them after driving, or idling with no burn. They are 36" long. If you do get the cobra's, from personal experience, I would say you probably don't want the short 29" ones. Chromed metal will eventually rust as well.
Thanks Steve. I see you have the side trim behind the side pipes. I have Hookers and the bracket does not allow me to put them back on without drilling. I don't want to. Did you have new brackets made(which is what I thought to do)or are they another brand header that fits up without any changes? I can't see them in the nice pics you sent me! Nice ride by the way! Dan
Thanks Steve. I see you have the side trim behind the side pipes. I have Hookers and the bracket does not allow me to put them back on without drilling. I don't want to. Did you have new brackets made(which is what I thought to do)or are they another brand header that fits up without any changes? I can't see them in the nice pics you sent me! Nice ride by the way! Dan
I had to trim the Hooker bolts by about 3/8" or so. I then assembled the pipes loosely and slide the trim panels in from the rear after removing the rear wheels. After that, I tighten the mounting bolts using a ratcheting box wrench with doors open and panels pushed outwards. Finally, screw the trim panels in place.
It took a couple of tries to get the procedure down but I can do it pretty easily now. I also trimmed the front of the trim a little for pipe clearance.
I had to trim the Hooker bolts by about 3/8" or so. I then assembled the pipes loosely and slide the trim panels in from the rear after removing the rear wheels. After that, I tighten the mounting bolts using a ratcheting box wrench with doors open and panels pushed outwards. Finally, screw the trim panels in place.
It took a couple of tries to get the procedure down but I can do it pretty easily now. I also trimmed the front of the trim a little for pipe clearance.
Your procedure depends on the rear wheel clearance? I have 3" flares with 19/325 wheel/tire. Will the clearance be there angling from the ground up?I really love the look you have with them on. Yes I am envious. On another note regarding the shields. Do you have 29" or 36"? I know you had them coated(my pipes are C/Coated) and they look great! The stock 29" are CC already for a $ saving. REELAV8TR stated "from experience" to get 36". Any thoughts? Thanks
Your procedure depends on the rear wheel clearance? I have 3" flares with 19/325 wheel/tire. Will the clearance be there angling from the ground up?I really love the look you have with them on. Yes I am envious. On another note regarding the shields. Do you have 29" or 36"? I know you had them coated(my pipes are C/Coated) and they look great! The stock 29" are CC already for a $ saving. REELAV8TR stated "from experience" to get 36". Any thoughts? Thanks
I'll measure them when I get home. I can't remember the size. If you want the 36" ones, contact Cobra Stuff and I am sure he could hook you up.
As for the flares, I don't think it would be an issue. You are basically sliding the panel in from the rear below the fender while flexing it a bit. I put tape on the bottom edge of the fender with the door open. Door open is key for more clearance. Just need to remove the wheel to get it all lined up. It is easier to do than explain.
When i test drove what is now my car, i burned the heck out of my leg. My wife said, nobody else will ever get in this car until shields are installed or sidepipes are gone ! I ordered shields and they work VERY good. Like another post said, you can put your hands on them without getting burned. So still have sidepipes and scar to prove they work !
Seems like there has to be something already made for trucks/tractors that would work.
Another alternative is buy a 5" stainless exhaust pipe off of eBay. Split it down the middle and fab up some way to mount it.
Those shield from truck pipes usa look like a very cost effective alternative. I went to their web site and it looks like you can get the stand-offs there as well. 4" or 5" shields in the 30" slotted or solid in the SS.
I wonder if you need 4" for 4" side pipes or the 5" for 4" side pipes? I would guess 5" for the 4" pipes but would call to check first.
Here's my Cobra Stuff shields. Installed right out of the box without issue. Good quality chrome. Have had them on several years now.
Very nice. Those must be the 36" version and mine must be 29". I have had no issues with the shorter ones since you would really have to stick you leg right by the door hinge in order to get burned.
Those shield from truck pipes usa look like a very cost effective alternative. I went to their web site and it looks like you can get the stand-offs there as well. 4" or 5" shields in the 30" slotted or solid in the SS.
I wonder if you need 4" for 4" side pipes or the 5" for 4" side pipes? I would guess 5" for the 4" pipes but would call to check first.
Thanks. It does look like a $ saving alternative but I went to USA and only saw pipe and an insulated pipe cover? Where did U C the stand-off clamps? Thanks.
I'll measure them when I get home. I can't remember the size. If you want the 36" ones, contact Cobra Stuff and I am sure he could hook you up.
As for the flares, I don't think it would be an issue. You are basically sliding the panel in from the rear below the fender while flexing it a bit. I put tape on the bottom edge of the fender with the door open. Door open is key for more clearance. Just need to remove the wheel to get it all lined up. It is easier to do than explain.
Thanks. I measured the pipe from an open door perspective and I agree the 29" pipe will be enough. I am looking into the Truck Pipe USA alternative. I measured the bolts and it does look like I will be able to trim them down and get them on. If you check the resdoggie vette posted here U can see his pipes are further back on the rocker and he did not have to trim the front? Wonder what's the difference?
side pipes
