Originally Posted by AllVettes4Me

I have seen and done both pc and paint, as well as POR-15 which technically is paint, but on a different scale. I think the key for me is making sure the inside of the frame rails are also treated when restoring a frame. I use Eastwood for the inside using their spray nozzles to get into the tough spots. I have used the green and the black and now I just use the black. Rust works on both sides of the metal so make sure to get the inside too or you are just treating the surface with a band aid and not really treating the full frame metal.

This is the 69 frame I recently restored. Sorry for the dust on the frame.
Attachment 48210717

As a manual frame it had a fixed cross member for the transmission. This modification makes it removable making installation and removal of the transmission much easier at a later date.
Attachment 48210718

Front view of the same frame. Sorry for the dust on the frame.
Attachment 48210719

Reinforcements added forward of the kick-up area. Welding reinforcements and stiffening.
Attachment 48210720

Front extensions replaced to remove pitted areas. Much nicer now.
Attachment 48210721

Front cross member repair section (removable) to reinforce the area where many jack up the car. This eliminates the denting up there and it is removable if you want to repair it. Area under it was also powder coated.
Attachment 48210722

The powder coating won't cover pitting in the frame but I am not an advocate for filling frame pitting anyway, like trying to cover up the pitting to hide something. Yes, looks better, but not really representative of the frame integrity.
Attachment 48210723

As long as you have the frame bare take some dimensions too and maybe gauge block it to make sure you have no twist or torque in the frame. An ounce of prevention so to speak.

Good luck with your decision.

David