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Hey guys I’m about to the halfway point of the complete engine compartment restoration. I’m ready to spray my first coat of blitz black from John Deere and just had a few questions.
1.Does anyone know the seals required for the engine compartment? I know the heater case seal, the engine compartment seal kit and the radiator core support seal kit. Are there any more? And do I need a full kit if I have electric fans?
2. I plan on putting in the Holley Sniper EFI kit. Does a ‘74 already have a return line to the fuel tank? I noticed two lines that come on the passenger frame rail to the fuel pump before I removed the engine.
3. Are there any grommet kits out there that include all the grommets required to seal the fire wall with the electrical and vacuum lines?
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. This is my first engine bay restore and want it clean. I have the wiring harnesses and plan to replace the control arm bushings if they are cheaper than replacing the arm itself. I’ve got mixed reviews on the forum what is cheaper if I used a service to do it.
Thanks,
mike
Hey guys I’m about to the halfway point of the complete engine compartment restoration. I’m ready to spray my first coat of blitz black from John Deere and just had a few questions.
1.Does anyone know the seals required for the engine compartment? I know the heater case seal, the engine compartment seal kit and the radiator core support seal kit. Are there any more? And do I need a full kit if I have electric fans?
2. I plan on putting in the Holley Sniper EFI kit. Does a ‘74 already have a return line to the fuel tank? I noticed two lines that come on the passenger frame rail to the fuel pump before I removed the engine.
3. Are there any grommet kits out there that include all the grommets required to seal the fire wall with the electrical and vacuum lines?
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. This is my first engine bay restore and want it clean. I have the wiring harnesses and plan to replace the control arm bushings if they are cheaper than replacing the arm itself. I’ve got mixed reviews on the forum what is cheaper if I used a service to do it.
Thanks,
mike
Hi Johnnypegs,
Looks like you have done a lot of work already, looks good. Ecklers Corvette sells a firewall kit for your vette. By 74 I think a return on the fuel was standard. Find the tank and see if it has one or two lines at the sending unit. Home Depot has a fair selection of rubber grommets that you can use for the vacuum lines. Buy your own control arm bushings and have a machine shop press them in, that would be the least expensive route.
Hi JP,
Dr. Rebuild has the most complete selection of engine compartment seals and firewall rubber grommets.
The on line catalog shows them and it's easy to make a list of what you'll need if you want to replace them all.
Please don't use grommets from Home Depot.
The grommets used in the firewall and elsewhere on the car are quite specific in their size and shape AND in the size and number of holes in them.
Regards,
Alan
your fuel return line is the thinner of the two and the arrow is pointing at it. might be a good idea to put new rubber lines to the tank from the other end of the steel lines ,or at least have a look at the state of them .
looks like you have plenty of shims on those A arms as well.
Hi JP,
Dr. Rebuild has the most complete selection of engine compartment seals and firewall rubber grommets.
The on line catalog shows them and it's easy to make a list of what you'll need if you want to replace them all.
Please don't use grommets from Home Depot.
The grommets used in the firewall and elsewhere on the car are quite specific in their size and shape AND in the size and number of holes in them.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks for the info. I also stripped down my wiper area and saw a few pictures of yours in previous threads. Did you use the basic Krylon for paint it? I’ve seen all kinds of ideas for it. Some used undercoating, bed liner and even just mopped on more of that factory gunk.
Hi JP,
I used Krylon 1613 because it's lacquer and to my eye mimics the look of the 'blackout' paint that was used in St.Louis.
There are certainly other choices available…. paint offered by SEMS and even John Deere Blitz Black.
Regards,
Alan
So I got the control arms removed and blasted today. It was much needed. I am ordering the parts to freshen it up and my question is if I needed the coil spring boots for the control arms? I’ve seen it on summit but this is my first time doing this much of a resto.
My Parts list includes:
Bilstein shocks b6
Summit racing poly bushing set
Moog suspension rebuilt kit.
Upper and lower bump stops.
Coil Springs and coil spring insulators
Am I missing anything?
My Parts list includes:
Bilstein shocks b6
Summit racing poly bushing set
Moog suspension rebuilt kit.
Upper and lower bump stops.
Coil Springs and coil spring insulators
Am I missing anything?
Look closely at the a-arms for cracks where the sway bar bracket is welded on. It's a common failure location.
You also have other options when running EFI returns. Some people put a later model vette filter regulator and return back by the gas tank. Tanks Inc also has an inexpensive tank that can run an in tank pump as well
Hi Jp,
"if I needed the coil spring boots for the control arms? "
I'm not sure what you're referring to?
Regards,
Alan
I was looking on summit racing for springs and suspesion parts and a coul spring boot came up on my search. It a rubber seal that lines the bottom of the control arm in between the spring and control arm. I dont think it’s necessary but I wanted to be sure.
Next step: Finally I got a few coats if paint on. And now i think im ready to start piecing it all back together. From the people who have done this, whats the best approach? I was thinking of starting with the stuff on the outside and work my way in. Such as washer fluid tank, over flow, radiator core support etc.
Just did mine and my boot was in good shape. It is also what lines up your bottom coil spring. I see you took it out, What is the condition of it?
Originally Posted by Johnnypegs
I was looking on summit racing for springs and suspesion parts and a coul spring boot came up on my search. It a rubber seal that lines the bottom of the control arm in between the spring and control arm. I dont think it’s necessary but I wanted to be sure.
Hi Jp,
Looks Good!
I agree that the core support can go in and also the heater air box and the wiper-motor.
Is the engine ready to go in? If it is I'd think about installing it at this point and then working around it.
Regards,
Alan
The engine is about ready. Im just waiting on parts from powder coat. All easy stuff. Just got to replace the gaskets for the valve covers, oil pan, intake and timing chain. And all the brackets for the accessories.
I have the ac harness and engine harness too. Should I start that with the engine out or while its in?
I did get the diagrams from Dr rebuild, and theyre great.
Engine Compartment Restoration Questions
