I am looking at a 1970 454 with a 4spd. not numbers matching. asking price is 38K
The engine is not #'s matching but not sure about the trans.
in excellent condition. I am trying to find a value and how the not matching numbers effects it.
thanks
Donnie

 

Hi Donnie,
Welcome!
It's impossible to even make a guess about the value of a car with the little information you've given.

The affect of a NOM on the value of a car is real. It depends though on what the car is AND on the buyer.
Some folks won't even consider a NOM car, while many other folks are very interested in a NOM car because of what they plan to do with the car.

So some more information about the car and some photos will get you LOTS of OPINIONS about it's value.

So more info?
Regards,
Alan

 

thanks
below are a few. can you be specific on what pictures. this is something I have been want to buy for some time. just don't want to make a mistake.

 

I make it a habit of studying 70 big block convertibles ( I have one) . the prices are all over the place.
A true, non-faked, great condition numbers matching original engine big block convertible with no excuses will cost you well north of 50K. don't expect to get one for 38K. There are currently about 12 in the nation I can find in for sale ads. 38K is about the lowest asking price you will find.

 

Joewill
what should i be looking for, any red flags??
the car is beautiful.
I want to spend mid 30k. I did find 71 LT1 but mid 50's
any help would be appreciated.

 

Obviously you are aware it is a nom car..and that hasn't turned you off.
Therefore use the fact that it is a nom car in your price negotiations.
You didn't include your location, which is helpful, in case a fellow member is willing to put another set of eyes on the car with you.
Rust..is a big deal, be sure to inspect it underneath, and read the sticky above on what to look for when considering buying one of these cars.
Good luck.

 

I am in SC and the car is in TX. I was hoping to hire a company , any help on hiring an outside company.?

 

Hi Donnie,
The car looks nice in the photos.
It would be nice to see some photos of the engine compartment and the chassis… front and rear.
Can you attach the "information" that describes the car? Is it a dealer of a private party?

Is it an original bb car?
What engine is currently in it?
When and why was the engine replaced?
Is it actually a NOM or is it the original engine that's lost the stamped info because it was decked at some point?
How much have other parts been changed over the years?
Do you know anything of it's 'history'?

If you're thinking about having the car 'looked at' I believe it's wise to HIRE someone who is experienced with the car you're asking them to evaluate.
You want a person with 68-72 big block knowledge.
Regards,
Alan

 

I

 

I don't have all that answered yet but I will find out.
thanks
see the photos

 

Read the sticky: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

I also suggest getting someone that knows the C3's for an inspection. It looks nice from the pictures, but they don't always tell the tale. Any minor cosmetic stuff is easy. If you jump in and find the birdcage or the frame is rusty then it's a whole new deal.
I probably paid over market value for my 69 when I bought it in 2006, but I had the advantage of knowing the car since the second owner bought it in 1971- and I have spent lots of hours working on it since 1971.

 

the 70 car will have a apples to apples asking price as a 69. the 69 is very desireable for various reasons and so is the 70 due to its rareity and 1st year 454 and last of the high compression cars. others, like the 68 and the 71 and 72 command less.

you really have to decide what exactly are your requirements.. originality? condition? Are you going to be mad at your seller if you find out later that the bell housing bolts are not original?

your 35K price range from a 70 standpoint should buy you a rust free, great paint great condition car. anything less, then walk...

start raising the price as you go big block, and other levels of originality, number of owners, clear clean title, mileage, distance from you, attitude of seller, other options ( leather, AC?), doc, provenance, retail seller.. etc..

also I have always stated, everyone overpays for a car as they are the only one that will pay that much for the car.

the trick is to get in the market at the right price and there will not be a great difference
in the appreciation curve between numbers cars and others.

also remember to add 10% to put the Car on the road, sales tax, title transfer, plates, insurance and the nickel and dime stuff you will want to do immediately.

also take all this advice as you will, if you require matching numbers, know that there is alot more to the numbers matching connotation than the numbers stamped on the stamp pad. maybe half of these cars for sale claim numbers matching and half of them are true provenance original engines. if you decide to play that game then add more money to your budget. authentication services out there will cost you 4 figures. and if they report back to you that the car is faked then you lose those 4 figures.

if you are a rookie, then don't play that game and get you be best non-numbers car you can find. trade originality for condition and get a better car.

 

Looks very similar to my '70 LS5 M21 Blue/ blue car, so I'm kinda partial to it. Somewhere in the $30k range or so with really good paint, a NOM car with a correct 512 block makes sense.

Like others have said, the '69 and '70 cars demand a premium, especially big block/ 4 speed versions. If you're willing to consider a NOM car, then that opens up a lot of options. Rust and paint are the two killers. Depending on where you are in SC, I'd be happy to show you what to look for.

 

Where is the car in Texas? I know how to assess rust.