Akroland

OK, after a brake rebuild and a broken rocker ive been trying to sort out the car. When the car warms after 5 or so miles, it just quits. After sitting on the road for twenty or so minutes it will crank and I can limp home. The thought was ignition so I replaced everything. It still quits. On the last stranding, when I got it to start I noticed the air in the fuel filter. Is the problem a bad fuel pump? I hope so as I’ve got a new one on the way. What say you folks?

2airtime2

I recently installed my new Edelbrock carb and clear fuel filter that came with it. When I was breaking in my cam (2000-25000 rpms) the fuel filter was pretty much full. When the car sits I notice the filter is 1/2 fuel and 1/2 air. Mine always starts right up and I believe the filter fills a little after starting but at idle and a little above the filter is not completely full.

Bloodzone

Mine did almost the thing. I was thinking fuel pump. Turned out to be the mechanical fuel pump push rod was seizing up. Car would sit for 10-20 minutes and it worked fine for a few miles then stop again.

derekderek

the little brass stone fuel filter in the carb?

Akroland

This is EXACTLY what I am seeing. I’ll check it when I replace the mechanical fuel pump. 👍

lvmyvt76

did you change out the small rubber hose that has a "S" shape to it with common fuel line??

Duane4238

I vote for the "S" hose. If someone replaced the factory hose with a piece of hose and bent it to fit, what is happening is when the engine bay heats up, the hose softens and collapses. After it sits for 15 or 20 minutes, it cools down and allows SOME fuel through. Also, if you have a real "S" hose, it could be just time for a new one. Don't replace it with just any piece of hose. AND don't ask how I know all this. Good luck.
Duane
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doorgunner

It's a long shot but:

If you are sure the distributor (points or HEI) is good......attach a voltmeter to the power wire at the distributor connection. When cranking the voltage would drop to 4v. After 20 minutes the voltage would vary between 13v down to 4v at the connection.

Points system is a different voltage but should remain constant with engine running

Several problems were happening at the same time:

The mechanical fuel pump was allowing the fuel to drain away from the carb.

Also, the fuel in the carb was boiling causing a dry bowl after shutdown.

Greg

Arkoland,
Lots of good advice here which leaves you plenty of things to check out. I don't want to muddy the waters here but does Florida have ethanol gas like we do here in California? We have been having a shitload of trouble with the vintage carburated cars, fuel pumps, rubber hoses, etc.

Akroland

Well, the learning curve continues. I’ve a complete 3 piece stainless fuel pipe assembly, AC Delco fuel filter and a new fuel pump ready to install. When looking deeper at the fuel lines I found this knotty issue. Yep, the fuel return line isn’t connected and just tied in a knot. So for you engine gurus, when I properly install the factory fuel system do you think the engine loosing power and quitting will be cleared up?

doorgunner

Good eye on the return line! I wonder if the fuel pump was 'starving' for fuel? I wonder what they did to the take return connection