Garage Heaters
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 218
Likes: 42
From: Hopedale Mass
Garage Heaters
I am looking for some advice as to the best way to keep my garage warm during the cold New England winters. I have a 625sqf garage with available 240V electrical or Propane connections. I am looking to keep the garage around 60 when not in use during the winter.
Electric seems to be very cost prohibitive and Propane requires the need to vent (Not something I want to Do).
Looking for advice and or suggestions. What are others using?
Electric seems to be very cost prohibitive and Propane requires the need to vent (Not something I want to Do).
Looking for advice and or suggestions. What are others using?
Last edited by mjmike; Nov 14, 2017 at 06:51 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 365
From: Tolland CT
I have been doing some research on this myself. First off, is your garage insulated? If not, do that first otherwise you will just be throwing $ out the window.
There are ventless propane options however everything that I have read states that they drastically increase humidity...like dew forming kind of humidity. I am going to go with a Mr. Heater vented.
I would rather install a vent than have all my tools and toys rusting due to the extra humidity.
There are ventless propane options however everything that I have read states that they drastically increase humidity...like dew forming kind of humidity. I am going to go with a Mr. Heater vented.
I would rather install a vent than have all my tools and toys rusting due to the extra humidity.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,458
Likes: 331
From: Indy Indiana
I agree and watch out for the humidity issue.
Had my other classic car car parked in a buddy's non vented, kerosene heated garage over the winter once.
there was a nice extra layer of rust formed over the entire frame and other exposed metal on the car. not much I could say or do besides not do it again. you need to be vented..
7000 sq ft is double the size of a fairly large house, if you are not well insulated you will need a fairly large furnace. drop down maybe one size due to your lower temp requirements and less use.
Had my other classic car car parked in a buddy's non vented, kerosene heated garage over the winter once.
there was a nice extra layer of rust formed over the entire frame and other exposed metal on the car. not much I could say or do besides not do it again. you need to be vented..
7000 sq ft is double the size of a fairly large house, if you are not well insulated you will need a fairly large furnace. drop down maybe one size due to your lower temp requirements and less use.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 687
I have a Modine hanging propane heater. Works well. It's vented thru the roof. I believe the newer models can be vented the wall.
My shop is 20 x 40. Completely insulated.
If I was to do it again I would buy a smaller forced air furnace and duct heat vents thru the ceiling like my house.
I set mine at 45 degrees when I'm not in the shop. About 65 degrees when I'm working.
My shop is 20 x 40. Completely insulated.
If I was to do it again I would buy a smaller forced air furnace and duct heat vents thru the ceiling like my house.
I set mine at 45 degrees when I'm not in the shop. About 65 degrees when I'm working.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,958
Likes: 577
From: Pittsburgh PA
7000 sq ft is a massive amount of space to heat. You would have to be very well insulated to have any hope of decent heat.
have you thought about partitioning off a section just for storage? heat that full time only heat the rest if you are working.
I have a modine gas forced air heater. works awesome but you would need several hundred thousand btus for a space that size.
have you thought about partitioning off a section just for storage? heat that full time only heat the rest if you are working.
I have a modine gas forced air heater. works awesome but you would need several hundred thousand btus for a space that size.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,582
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
7000 sq ft is a massive amount of space to heat. You would have to be very well insulated to have any hope of decent heat.
have you thought about partitioning off a section just for storage? heat that full time only heat the rest if you are working.
I have a modine gas forced air heater. works awesome but you would need several hundred thousand btus for a space that size.
have you thought about partitioning off a section just for storage? heat that full time only heat the rest if you are working.
I have a modine gas forced air heater. works awesome but you would need several hundred thousand btus for a space that size.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
How long is it to be unoccupied, overnight, all week while working, or a month at a time? If a week or longer, might be best to let it get cold. Just make sure everything stored there can handle a hard freeze. Then maybe set a timer to bring heat up a day before you are gonna be working. That big is usually either a full-time business or a storage space. Too much to heat for us hobbiests. A couple of salamanders pointing at the immediate area-project might make the most sense.
Last edited by derekderek; Nov 9, 2017 at 12:01 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2013
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From: Los Banos CA
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Safety Car
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From: los altos hills california
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
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We're in Pembroke Massachusetts, get's damned cold with lots of snow around here. For the past three years, we've been using one of those stand alone aluminum propane heaters and it's just WONDERFUL ! ! Heat's up the whole place corner-to-corner and keeps a pot of coffee placed on top as hot as can be. Highly recommended ! ! !
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
This thread reminds me of "sometimes you are the bug, sometimes you are the windshield." After suffering thru two consecutive rainy seasons of the highest temps on record here in Miami, I can finally go out in the garage and work on my car without sweating like a pig.
.
.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
I have a 6,500 sq ft. building. Insulated steel construction. I have one 500,000 BTU propane heater. Was a natural gas heater but I converted it to propane. It heats the entire building to whatever temp I want. At the lowest setting it stays about 60 degrees. I vented thtough the side wall then up outside.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,187
Likes: 1,670
From: Long Island
Ceiling fans are a must, it helps keep the floor warm.
I would use in floor heat - hot water in the PECS pipe buried in the concrete. It makes working in the shop much better and is explosion proof as there is no open flame. The shop will feel warmer and thus you can lower the temperature while working. Plus your feet will thank you.
I used baseboard, hot water plumed from the house - explosion proof. I trenched to the shop and tapped into the house furnace.
I keep the shop at 42 during the winter and bump it up to 62 when working in the shop. I ran the pipes in PVC and went down 3 feet - also ran TV, phone and com lines.
Insulation and thermo windows / doors are a must or the heating bill will be ugly.
I would use in floor heat - hot water in the PECS pipe buried in the concrete. It makes working in the shop much better and is explosion proof as there is no open flame. The shop will feel warmer and thus you can lower the temperature while working. Plus your feet will thank you.
I used baseboard, hot water plumed from the house - explosion proof. I trenched to the shop and tapped into the house furnace.
I keep the shop at 42 during the winter and bump it up to 62 when working in the shop. I ran the pipes in PVC and went down 3 feet - also ran TV, phone and com lines.
Insulation and thermo windows / doors are a must or the heating bill will be ugly.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
Likes: 16
From: Green Lake WI
I have a 40 x 40 insulated metal pole barn. 12' high ceilings. I use a propane (I live in the country in central Wisc where it gets COLD.) powered draft,thru the wall "modine " type heater for taking the chill off in spring and fall. I think its about 75,000 btu.And a wood burner for the colder times.
This AM it is 13 out. With the wood burner going,it stays above 40 all winter and when I go out and load it up,I get it to shirtsleeve temps in Jan/Feb. I dont pay for wood,so that is a big plus.
This AM it is 13 out. With the wood burner going,it stays above 40 all winter and when I go out and load it up,I get it to shirtsleeve temps in Jan/Feb. I dont pay for wood,so that is a big plus.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 221
Likes: 16
From: Green Lake WI
Also, I have 4 ceiling fans I got from a salvage store for free. They make all the difference to be able to even the heat. When you burn gas in an unvented heater, it puts about a gallon of water out in the exhaust for every gallon of gas.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 365
From: Tolland CT
Ceiling fans are a must, it helps keep the floor warm.
I would use in floor heat - hot water in the PECS pipe buried in the concrete. It makes working in the shop much better and is explosion proof as there is no open flame. The shop will feel warmer and thus you can lower the temperature while working. Plus your feet will thank you.
I used baseboard, hot water plumed from the house - explosion proof. I trenched to the shop and tapped into the house furnace.
I keep the shop at 42 during the winter and bump it up to 62 when working in the shop. I ran the pipes in PVC and went down 3 feet - also ran TV, phone and com lines.
Insulation and thermo windows / doors are a must or the heating bill will be ugly.
I would use in floor heat - hot water in the PECS pipe buried in the concrete. It makes working in the shop much better and is explosion proof as there is no open flame. The shop will feel warmer and thus you can lower the temperature while working. Plus your feet will thank you.
I used baseboard, hot water plumed from the house - explosion proof. I trenched to the shop and tapped into the house furnace.
I keep the shop at 42 during the winter and bump it up to 62 when working in the shop. I ran the pipes in PVC and went down 3 feet - also ran TV, phone and com lines.
Insulation and thermo windows / doors are a must or the heating bill will be ugly.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,187
Likes: 1,670
From: Long Island
Base board works well. You could put the furnace outside in a small attachment to the shop. We had hot water blowers hung from the ceiling in the shops where I worked when I was younger - very warm and with TEC motors no open flame or sparks.
My concern is an explosion with an open flame.
Cars can leak gas, rags that have solvent can evaporate into the shop.
Just a concern.
Last winter a home shop burnt to the ground due to a leaking gas tank / line on one of the cars in his shop. Sadly he lost a 69 Camaro and a Firebird. He had a pellet stove in the shop.
Last spring in a neighboring town: workers were renovating a house (large house) and removing vinyl tile from the kitchen floor with solvent. It was warn during the day - they had the windows open - they went home at 5pm & closed the windows. Around 11 pm the Fire marshal said the heat came on. Since the windows were closed, the home was unoccupied (thankfully) - then the rest of the tile removed itself - as did the rest of the house. Nothing left but the foundation...
Just some thoughts for safety.. maybe it's because I worked with UL and Factory Mutual and NFPA labs in my younger days..
My concern is an explosion with an open flame.
Cars can leak gas, rags that have solvent can evaporate into the shop.
Just a concern.
Last winter a home shop burnt to the ground due to a leaking gas tank / line on one of the cars in his shop. Sadly he lost a 69 Camaro and a Firebird. He had a pellet stove in the shop.
Last spring in a neighboring town: workers were renovating a house (large house) and removing vinyl tile from the kitchen floor with solvent. It was warn during the day - they had the windows open - they went home at 5pm & closed the windows. Around 11 pm the Fire marshal said the heat came on. Since the windows were closed, the home was unoccupied (thankfully) - then the rest of the tile removed itself - as did the rest of the house. Nothing left but the foundation...
Just some thoughts for safety.. maybe it's because I worked with UL and Factory Mutual and NFPA labs in my younger days..
