While dash and center console removed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 141
Likes: 11
From: KC, MO
While dash and center console removed
I am completely redoing the stereo system in my 76 so in doing that I have removed the dash, gauge cluster, and the entire center console. While I have it all torn apart, does anyone have any recommendations for things I need/should replace. Basically everything is original. I am planning on replacing the light bulbs in the gauges but curious what the other restoration people think. I know it depends on the car but those with experience, I want to know your thoughts.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 291
Likes: 15
From: Virginia Beach VA
It would be convenient time to change out the dash wiring harness to a new one if you had any concerns about your old one. Also - now is a good time to check out the alignment of your driver side door as the hinge mounts can only be adjusted with the dash out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 750
Likes: 180
From: Springfield Missouri
When I had my 76 apart I changed any of the bulbs that looked suspect and cleaned all the grounds. The po had installed a Kenwood stereo and I exchanged it for an Alpine CD unit and a six disc changer mounted behind the drivers seat. I put it there since I'm 5" 6 1/2" and the seat will never be all the way back. I dressed out the wire harness and used wire ties to keep things separated. I wouldn't change the wire harness unless it was hacked up and in poor shape. There are many DC-8's, 9's and 10's produced in the 60's and 70's still in the air and I very seriously doubt the wiring harnesses have been changed sinc they were manufactured and I worked many of them at the plant in Long Beach, Calif.
I split the speedometer and tach wiring into two harnesses and used molex plugs to make it easier if they come out again and they will as I plan on changing glass fuse block for a blade fuse block from any GM vehicle I can find in the boneyard.
If you want I'll start a thread with pictures of what I've done since I don't want to hijack your thread.
I split the speedometer and tach wiring into two harnesses and used molex plugs to make it easier if they come out again and they will as I plan on changing glass fuse block for a blade fuse block from any GM vehicle I can find in the boneyard.
If you want I'll start a thread with pictures of what I've done since I don't want to hijack your thread.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Check all operational components and mechanisms that have movement to be sure they are functional and have freedom of movement. This includes all vacuum servos and linkages in the HVAC system, dampers, doors, and seals too.
There is little to go wrong with the dash wiring harness, unless it has been hacked-up or had a fire/over-current problem. But all bulbs should be replaced. I've tried the LED thing: the Chinese bulbs don't fit properly in the sockets, several are bad out of the box, and they don't dim properly unless you add a PWM control unit in the circuit. New bulbs will last many years. You SHOULD repair any bulb sockets that fall apart when you remove the bulb. A little epoxy on the retaining prongs will keep that metal contact ring in place...permanently.
In general, you want to repair or upgrade everything in the dash area so you don't ever have to get in there again!
There is little to go wrong with the dash wiring harness, unless it has been hacked-up or had a fire/over-current problem. But all bulbs should be replaced. I've tried the LED thing: the Chinese bulbs don't fit properly in the sockets, several are bad out of the box, and they don't dim properly unless you add a PWM control unit in the circuit. New bulbs will last many years. You SHOULD repair any bulb sockets that fall apart when you remove the bulb. A little epoxy on the retaining prongs will keep that metal contact ring in place...permanently.
In general, you want to repair or upgrade everything in the dash area so you don't ever have to get in there again!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
If it was me and I had all that disassembly taking place, I'd at least think (hard) about installing Dynamat or one of the other heat and sound insulation materials. The area you have apart is a major source of heat transfer from the engine bay to the passenger compartment. I'd also look to seal any unused holes on the firewall, which allow heat, cold, water, etc to enter the passenger compartment.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 1,727
From: Summerville SC
Ditto the dynamat. Also, if there were any issues with your heater now is the time to check it all out such as vac lines or the core itself. Lots of stuff under there but it is really easy with the dash out.
Last edited by kanvasman; Nov 24, 2017 at 07:18 PM.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,597
Likes: 7,046
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
If it was me and I had all that disassembly taking place, I'd at least think (hard) about installing Dynamat or one of the other heat and sound insulation materials. The area you have apart is a major source of heat transfer from the engine bay to the passenger compartment. I'd also look to seal any unused holes on the firewall, which allow heat, cold, water, etc to enter the passenger compartment.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
True Dat about heat shield/wrap......discolored heater core from seepage.
