Hi,

I've searched the forum and have not been able to find a definitive answer to my question. The rocker channels in my 1968 convertible are rusted and in need of replacement (the #3 mounts on both sides are toast). It's my understanding that the replacement channels that are available from the various vendors are essentially inserts that are welded to the existing rocker channels in order to reinforce them. My questions is: is it necessary to remove the body shell from the birdcage in order to remove and replace the rocker channels or can this be accomplished with the body in place? For the sake of clarity, the body from my car has been removed from the frame and is currently on a jig. What I am asking is whether the body needs to be removed from the birdcage to make the rocker channel repair. Other than the rivets located on the door sills, do the channels have any other attachment points to the actual fiberglass? Is the body bonded to the channels?

Also, I do have available to me complete original rocker assemblies (these were cut from a donor car). I would rather use these than the replacement inserts. Anyone had any experience with replacing the channels with complete GM pieces? Thanks in advance.

 

I do not see how you can replace any of the damaged areas without removing the body pieces. On my 69' the drivers #3 was toast. When I had the work done I used a donor LH #3 cage area. They had to remove the LH lock pillar fiberglass and part of the fiberglass rocker to weld in the donor.

Joe

 

I replaced both my rocker channels in my 69 with cut-outs from a 74 , I was lucky the rust hadn't spread too far up yet . I did have to remove the firewall as I had bad rust across the lower windscreen frame as well. That made it easy for access to weld the whole new (74) assembly on . It was necessary for me as the big reinforcement that has the bottom hinge mounting holes in it were rotten as well .

There is no glue bonding the channel to the glass panels , just lots of spot welds and those rivets in the door access area you speak about.




I cut off the seat belt mount pieces before I put these in .



I was lucky the rust didn't go too high up the pillar so just a few patches and I could join the new channel on


Same again , rust didn't go too far up so all I needed was to take off that panel to access the back end of it. I also sandblasted the rust areas where the spot welds were supposed to be so I could see them better , rather than grinding whole areas.

Really need to show just what you have so people can help you make a decision on which way to go .

It's actually not to bad a job once you get started

 

I’m in the process of removing the firewall so access at the front pillar spot welds won’t be a problem. It’s the rear piller (by the door jam) that’s got me scratching my head. In your last photo (showing the #3 mount), it looks like some of the quarter panel edge has been cut away. Did you have to cut away any fiberglass to install the new rockers. It seems (just like Joe said) that the only way to access the spot welds at the rear pillar/#3 mount would be to cut away at least some of the door jamb..

 

No , my 3rd picture shows the area open , that is a separate panel I unglued with a heat gun , As I said I was lucky the rust didnt go higher . Normally that can be done with out disturbing the rear quarter panel dog leg , I started to take the dog leg off as I'm going to replace that whole quarter panel later anyway (smashed and repaired badly ) .

What I did there gave me access to all the spot welded joins ,



Here's a pic of the back end after I ground out the spot-welded rusty rocker panel and its joiner piece. That is the joiner off the 74 donor sitting in there . I had to cut rusted areas from that pillar to get enough "meat" for it to join onto something



Here's the channel removed , you can see the 4 spot welds (ground out , shiny spots ) on the bottom of the original joiner to channel , there 3 more rows of welds , one on each side , pillar to channel and a front of pillar edge (which bends forward to lay flat on top of the channel , an excellent guide to ensure the new piece goes in properly ) they vary in the amount of spot welds , if you look close you can just see 3 small shiny spots on the right side at the bottom of the pillar that's why I sandblasted to see them more clearly . In reality most had already rusted away on the back side and weren't holding anything.

I have lots more pics if you want to look at some more .


I did the front first and left the back "joiner pieces" in there original position so I could check for fitment of the new piece , here is the new piece trial fitting with clamps ,




I did cut away some of the fibreglass , you can see it in my second pic , just to get enough clearance to weld around the pillar , I wouldn't normally cut so far back but I used the big hole as a guide to help put it back together .

 

If its not too late , do yourself a favour , before you separate the floor from the bottom of the firewall , drill some holes in the join before you do it , as its will make it easier to get the overlap just right when it comes time to reglue it . I didn't think of it until after, it would have helped me

Here's a pic of it going back together , you can see I separated the corner piece which is a separate panel , then cut the extra away , I was worried about it getting too hot when welding , so some glass work , but mainly re-gluing .

 

I guess you are saying alignment holes that could double as clamp points by bolting together?

 

Yes , exactly .