Turn signal issue
Thanks,
Brady
Last edited by EP1978; Dec 14, 2017 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Grammar
Did the turn signal work correctly after it was replaced??? Because if it never worked after it the new one was installed. There is a chance that the steering column is not correctly positioned when your front wheels are actually pointing straight ahead.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Dec 14, 2017 at 06:50 PM.
Did the turn signal work correctly after it was replaced??? Because if it never worked after it the new one was installed. There is a chance that the steering column is not correctly positioned when your front wheels are actually pointing straight ahead.
DUB
There is a notch at the very end of the shaft that the nut that holds on the steering wheel hub. IF your wheels are straight...that notch MUST BE at the 12 'o' clock position. Then...the hub that your steering wheel is attached to has a notch cast into it and it lines up with the notch at the end of the column shaft.
IF the notch at the end of your steering column shaft is not at 12 'o' clock....and lets say it is at 1 'o' clock...then your turn signal will not work correctly. It may cancel to soon or not engage unless the steering wheel is turned a little bit.
DUB





The pictures below show the cam which is below the lock plate. It will only go in one way.
Not knowing what 'switch' Stephen Irons was mentioning. I can only assume that it is the turn signal switch and it can not move once it is secured in position.
Now if it is the lower horn contact seen in the first photo of POST#7. Then this is correct IF it is incorrectly installed.
DUB
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





Not knowing what 'switch' Stephen Irons was mentioning. I can only assume that it is the turn signal switch and it can not move once it is secured in position.
Now if it is the lower horn contact seen in the first photo of POST#7. Then this is correct IF it is incorrectly installed.
DUB
I'll be interested to see some photos etc
Last edited by EP1978; Dec 19, 2017 at 09:05 AM.
THEN...you do not have to totally remove the turn signal switch...but at least get it up and away so you can manually check and see if it will lock in place WITHOUT it being installed.
I KNOW this may seem pointless..but I HAVE encountered some turn signal switches that did just that. I could manually work them in my hand BUT when I installed it some of the plastic of the switch was causing a problem in one of the directions that I was moving the turn signal level it would not engage.
I would really look close at the motion of your switch for the direction DOES engage and lock in place and then see what is happening when you go into the opposite direction.
DUB






DUB
DUB
Turned out I replaced the same exact switch that some one else
Replaced. If you look close enough you will see there is to much room in the center of the switch. Turns out it was a switch for a non tilt column.
I have a tilt. I went to lectric limited and ordered a switch for a tilt
Co.umn . It is smaller with a different horn ring. Works great.
Thanks again to Dub for the education. And the phone call.
Call lectric limited, you won’t be sorry.hope this helps.
Turned out I replaced the same exact switch that some one else
Replaced. If you look close enough you will see there is to much room in the center of the switch. Turns out it was a switch for a non tilt column.
I have a tilt. I went to lectric limited and ordered a switch for a tilt
Co.umn . It is smaller with a different horn ring. Works great.
Thanks again to Dub for the education. And the phone call.
Call lectric limited, you won’t be sorry.hope this helps.
GLAD to be of some help.
DUB
Of course I tested the newly installed switch as soon as I screwed it in, and all was good. I then attached the arm that connects the switch to the stalk, and tested that. Still a little stiff, but it operated all the lights and clicked into position left and right. So far so good.
I then reassembled everything, and tested again. The second or third time I went to lock it left, summamabitch ! It wouldn't lock left. So I pulled everything apart again. Looking everything over, I noticed that the linkage in question (circled in red below) flexes a little bit when you move the stalk to the point where it locks into position. I hypothesized that since the stalk had been reefed on repeatedly, it would stand to reason that the linkage could have been twisted a little in the process. I sprayed the piece connected to the stalk down with PB Blaster, and cleaned it out as best I could, then used two crescent wrenches to bend the linkage slightly inward at the end that mates with the stalk, slathered that end in grease, and reinstalled it. After that, the stalk moves a little more freely, and locks into both left and right.
I put everything back together again, and all seems well with it. So far anyway.
On a related note, I haven't seen anyone mention it, but I had to wrestle the lock plate retainer into place manually both times I reinstalled the lock plate. Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see any place to lock the shaft in place, and on my column (tilt only), when the lock plate retainer is out, you can pull the center shaft right out of the outer one. The inner shaft just slips in with a keyway to mate the two.
*edit - I was mistaken about the lock plate retainer. That does keep the inner potrion from sliding clear out of the outer, but It's the star shaped bolt that locks the inner portion in place. I noticed that when I had to pull the wheel back off this afternoon to line it up straight.
Last edited by DB Cooper; Apr 22, 2018 at 04:13 PM.













