New dash pad 1979 C3
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
New dash pad 1979 C3
Test fit the dash today. The wiper switch and it's bezel are giving me the hardest time of all.
It helps to disconnect the upper speedometer cable at the transducer when installing the dash.
The glove box has not been adjusted yet.
Still waiting on more parts before the final installation of the dash pad.
Hours and hours of work, now my back is aching like crazy. Probably not going to be able to work on it tomorrow because of the pain.
It helps to disconnect the upper speedometer cable at the transducer when installing the dash.
The glove box has not been adjusted yet.
Still waiting on more parts before the final installation of the dash pad.
Hours and hours of work, now my back is aching like crazy. Probably not going to be able to work on it tomorrow because of the pain.
#2
Just another Corvette guy
That is a big job but well worth it once you're finished. Rest up that back, and good luck!
#3
Racer
Dash
Just finished doing that my self.
Bought one from a fellow on here to save a few bucks but it turned out to be an original with a cap attached, so the thing was too thick for any of the switches to fit.
Installed a new one but it does not fit as well as it should. I feel your pain!
Bought one from a fellow on here to save a few bucks but it turned out to be an original with a cap attached, so the thing was too thick for any of the switches to fit.
Installed a new one but it does not fit as well as it should. I feel your pain!
#4
Assemble everything you can on the bench, stick it in and plug it in.
I would check for leaks while in there, clean up the ground on the drivers side, and Dynamat any place you can reach.
I would check for leaks while in there, clean up the ground on the drivers side, and Dynamat any place you can reach.
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Test fit the dash today. The wiper switch and it's bezel are giving me the hardest time of all.
It helps to disconnect the upper speedometer cable at the transducer when installing the dash.
The glove box has not been adjusted yet.
Still waiting on more parts before the final installation of the dash pad.
Hours and hours of work, now my back is aching like crazy. Probably not going to be able to work on it tomorrow because of the pain.
It helps to disconnect the upper speedometer cable at the transducer when installing the dash.
The glove box has not been adjusted yet.
Still waiting on more parts before the final installation of the dash pad.
Hours and hours of work, now my back is aching like crazy. Probably not going to be able to work on it tomorrow because of the pain.
As far as the glove box door goes... From the factory there was a defect in the upper right hand side of the glove box door. The door never fit good in that area.
If you look at the lower pictures below (pulled from the original production video) of the car you'll see what I mean. I own a very low mileage 1978 and the glove box door fits it horrible so don't stress out about the fit of the glove box door, it's something that'll drive you nuts. Somewhere I have pictures of the door in my car and if I find them I'll post them too.
Willcox
Here are the pictures of my original glove box door.. Horrible fit too.. Just keep in mind the reproduction dash pad was made just like the original one. This car is 100 percent factory original and this is the way it was delivered new. Sad but true.
I'll also tell you that it's easier to remove and do this job by removing the steering column from the car, there are only 7 bolts that hold it in place.
And since I'm reviewing my notes on this, Dash Vent Deflectors (outer) can be a trick to install too. In the last installation one of the duct retainers was broken. One tab was cracked off and the other side was warped and would not hold the new deflector properly. The fix… plastic weld or plastic fusion can be used to repair the broken tab. (In our case we had a good used one in stock). The fix if the vent holders are bent or warped is to heat them with a heat gun until they become pliable and then with a cold wet rag squeeze them inward. When the cold rag hits the hot plastic it will hold the new form. It may take a few attempts to get it right and our advice is to use a blow drier vs. the heat gun at home.
And more notes:
The back side where the wiper switch is mounted. Installing the switch is a must before you install the dash pad. To mark the hole we install the switch in the dash and then take a heated awe to make a pilot hole. Doing it with the awe prevents mistakes by either drilling the hole to large or making a huge mistake and going too deep.
If this hole is stripped out on an original pad, you’ll have to reach behind the dash, enlarge the hole and then fill it with “Plastic Fusion” or “Plastic Weld”, once dry you have to drill the hole. (The repair compound is too hard for using the awe trick).
If you are on facebook, you can review a installation we did a few years back at this link :
Facebook Post
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-25-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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shipahoy (01-26-2018)
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
The dash is installed. I admit I made some mistakes and slightly damaged the new dash pad. I have no one to blame but myself.
Anyone know what I should use to "patch" some of the black color I accidentally rubbed off the front of the dash? Is there a flat black dye I could apply to cover up my mistake?
I have learned a bunch and if I do it again on another project I am much better prepared.
Just a test fit of the gauges. I need to do some more minor cutting before they will fit correctly. But we are making progress.
Anyone know what I should use to "patch" some of the black color I accidentally rubbed off the front of the dash? Is there a flat black dye I could apply to cover up my mistake?
I have learned a bunch and if I do it again on another project I am much better prepared.
Just a test fit of the gauges. I need to do some more minor cutting before they will fit correctly. But we are making progress.