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I went to Willcox site to see what might be wrong with my guage while the center dash is out. My guage when you turn the car off the guage goes to fourty never to zero. When you start the car it go up at idle and on up to around eighty when you rev engine. On their site if it starts at zero and goes to around twenty, that means a bad resistor. I was wondering if that is what wrong with mine. Or if the guage is bad since it does not go to zero.
Thanks for any help.
Larry
My 'guess' is that the needle has moved on the spindle so that it reads "40" when it should be ZERO. If so, it's not a surprise that it reads about 80 when running. Sounds like the ZERO setting is shifted by +40 psi.
Not sure how it could shift like that, unless the rack mechanism inside the gauge is not working properly.
If I were you, I'd leave it alone and watch it carefully to see if it is just reading 40 psi too high all the time (but otherwise working properly). If so, you could pop the needle off and reset it to 0 psi the next time you are into the gauge cluster for repair/maintenance.
P.S. I'm curious as to whether the gauge has been like that since you've owned the car.
My 'guess' is that the needle has moved on the spindle so that it reads "40" when it should be ZERO. If so, it's not a surprise that it reads about 80 when running. Sounds like the ZERO setting is shifted by +40 psi.
Not sure how it could shift like that, unless the rack mechanism inside the gauge is not working properly.
If I were you, I'd leave it alone and watch it carefully to see if it is just reading 40 psi too high all the time (but otherwise working properly). If so, you could pop the needle off and reset it to 0 psi the next time you are into the gauge cluster for repair/maintenance.
P.S. I'm curious as to whether the gauge has been like that since you've owned the car.
7T1 thanks I was thinking the same thing about poping the needle off and restting on zero I will do it before I put the dash and radio back in. Yes it has been that way since I got the car in 2014. I just never pulled the dash untill I got a oem radio for it, so I could get the junk they put in out. Thank goodness he did not bubba up th wireing much. Used the power wire for the clock to give conseant power for memory to the radio and used the power, and ground from the oem radio and just cut the gray wire and left it there. So I picked up the connections for the radio and clock so it is all ready now.
Thanks again. Larry
Apply power and ground to the gauge, then ground out the ohms stud (signal) to that same ground.
The gauge should go to zero.
If it doesn't you've got a gauge issue, if it does the issue is somewhere else.
If you pass the grounded out ohms wire test then remove the jumper from the ohms input to ground and see where the gauge goes. It should read like the top right gauge in the lower picture.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jan 30, 2018 at 02:58 PM.
Apply power and ground to the gauge, then ground out the ohms stud (signal) to that same ground.
The gauge should go to zero.
If it doesn't you've got a gauge issue, if it does the issue is somewhere else.
If you pass the grounded out ohms wire test then remove the jumper from the ohms input to ground and see where the gauge goes. It should read like the top right gauge in the lower picture.
Thanks for the tip to check the gauge. I have a idea the gauge might be bad. i will check tomorrow. I will most likley be ordering a gauge.
Thanks again
Larry
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