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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 10:20 AM
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Default Original Rotors

I completed a 4 wheel disc brake job, new rotors, pads, rebuilt my calipers, new brake lines and MC after completing replacement of all front end suspension parts on my 1981 vette.

The rotors taken off were original, fronts were still riveted on. The original rotors are smooth except for right front has a slight groove and all would need to be turned. Is it worth keeping, selling or just scrap?

Last edited by Reaper19; Jan 29, 2018 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Reaper19
The rotors taken off were original, fronts were still riveted on. The original rotors are smooth except for right front has a slight groove and all would need to be turned. Is it worth keeping, selling or just scrap?
What up Reaper?
They have to be measured to determine if the rotors are thick enough to turn. If not they are boat anchors. If in spec after turning someone might want them. I wouldn't spend a lot of money turning them though.

I find myself in the same boat here. Mine are headed to the scrap yard.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 11:33 AM
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FYI:
If the rotor faces are within run-out tolerances you may not need to "turn" them because of a small groove.

ALSO:

The rotors can be "de-glazed" by removing the caliper and spinning the rotor on the spindle and holding a spinning sanding disc gently against them that is turning in the opposite direction.
Gently move the spinning disc across the entire flat surface of the rotor until a clean surface is obtained.
Do the same procedure to the other side of the rotor.

A small angle grinder with sanding disc against rotor surface.......





A large grinder with thick "rubber disc" installed to spin rotor by holding grinder in place against rotor edge using C-clamps on the frame or other area.........

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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 12:00 PM
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Default Agree and great advice here!

Originally Posted by doorgunner
FYI:
If the rotor faces are within run-out tolerances you may not need to "turn" them because of a small groove.

ALSO:

The rotors can be "de-glazed" by removing the caliper and spinning the rotor on the spindle and holding a spinning sanding disc gently against them that is turning in the opposite direction.
Gently move the spinning disc across the entire flat surface of the rotor until a clean surface is obtained.
Do the same procedure to the other side of the rotor.

A small angle grinder with sanding disc against rotor surface.......





A large grinder with thick "rubber disc" installed to spin rotor by holding grinder in place against rotor edge using C-clamps on the frame or other area.........

Agree and great advice here!

On the last set of front riveted rotors I had, I checked the runout and minimum thickness, cleaned everything several times with brake cleaner, hand sanded thoroughly with 80 grit (doorgunner's plan is likely better), new pads and broke them in with several reasonably strong stops from 30 to zero and they worked great. IMHO, few small grooves do not matter. And a friend told me they can turn them on the spindle installed now for reasonable cost, but I would not turn them unless they do not pass the tests above.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Last edited by 20mercury; Jan 29, 2018 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 01:17 PM
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The quality of the original rotors is much better than what you can buy at your local parts store. Yes, there are high quality vendors out there; but their products are much more expensive than having the original rotors turned. For a normal street vehicle, the stock rotors are more than you need and, as evidenced by how they look after 40+ years, they will last a long time if the braking system is well maintained.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Street Rat
.... If not they are boat anchors. ...Mine are headed to the scrap yard.
I use mine as weights when I have some woodworking project that needs boards clamped together or held down. And they stack nicely
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
The rotors can be "de-glazed" by removing the caliper and spinning the rotor on the spindle and holding a spinning sanding disc gently against them that is turning in the opposite direction.
I have done this by gluing emery cloth to an old set of brake pads and slowly moving up and down the driveway.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 02:29 PM
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Great advice.
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ignatz
I have done this by gluing emery cloth to an old set of brake pads and slowly moving up and down the driveway.
You just reminded me that I had to resurface the mating faces of two sets of calipers. The pads were well worn at the tops and barely worn at the bottoms because the caliper halves were not machined parallel to each other from the factory. All is well now.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 12:35 AM
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Default Agree!

Originally Posted by ignatz
I use mine as weights when I have some woodworking project that needs boards clamped together or held down. And they stack nicely
Agree! I stack all my old rotors on the base of my floor drill press, 4 or 5 rotors is just like bolting it to the floor!
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Old Feb 1, 2018 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
The quality of the original rotors is much better than what you can buy at your local parts store. Yes, there are high quality vendors out there; but their products are much more expensive than having the original rotors turned. For a normal street vehicle, the stock rotors are more than you need and, as evidenced by how they look after 40+ years, they will last a long time if the braking system is well maintained.

I agree with 7T1vette. I replaced all four rotors on my 68 with drilled cryo treated rotors. The old ones were in perfect condition- much better steel used than is used today.
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 08:21 PM
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I sold mine at a scrap yard. Basically paid for one or two of the new rotors I bought.

Those rivets were a pain to get out.
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