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LT1 Crankshaft Identification

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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Default LT1 Crankshaft Identification

Hey guys, need some help identifying a crankshaft. About a year & a half ago I acquired what I thought was a complete authentic 71 LT1 engine to go in my 72 frame off project when the time came. Turns out that the block itself was a replacement CE 010 block according to the pad markings. So I’m parting it out. So far everything else has had all the correct numbers/markings for the 71 LT1. Intake/heads/pistons/rods/exhaust manifolds. I just finished tearing it down completely today to the bare block & am wondering on how I can identify the crankshaft authenticity as well? There are several markings towards the front of it, but I don’t know what they represent.

Anything Helps,
-Matt
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 04:31 PM
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Hi Matt,
I guess the first thing to determine is if the crank is forged steel (LT-!) or nodular iron (L-48).
Regards,
Alan
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 04:36 PM
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I would look for the number "1182" on the crank.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 04:39 PM
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Alan! It’s been a while. Hope you’re doing good. & Judging by the parting lines on the counterweights it’s forged steel.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 04:40 PM
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Just made out the 1182 numbers at the front of it. So I assume it’s the real deal?

Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Feb 2, 2018 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 05:56 PM
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The party line down the middle of the crankshaft. Is it a thin sharp line or is it about three quarters of an inch wide? The thin sharp line is a cast-iron crank. The wide parting line is a forged steel crank.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 06:08 PM
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The parting lines are .75-1in wide. Some on them are straight & others curved unevenly. Also has the 1182 number stamped into it on the front. I believe it’s the correct crank. I bought this engine from an older man that I know personally. He had just rebuilt it a few months before I bought it. With this crank having practically no use on it, what could I sell it for?

Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Feb 2, 2018 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 07:17 PM
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I think the 1182 should be raised instead of stamped.
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Old Feb 2, 2018 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 68notray
I think the 1182 should be raised instead of stamped.
It is raised, my mistake for saying stamped.
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Old Feb 3, 2018 | 06:47 AM
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$500-$600 is my estimate for a clean std/std steel crank. I just bought one a few weeks ago.
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