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how to replace a broken speedo needle that has sheared
While trying to replace inop light bulbs the speedo needle sheared from its mounting pin at its base. The needle is ok but the mounting pin is broken ...not good. Do I have to remove the mileage/trip assy? Also some of the bulbs are ok when jiggled. Can I spray contact cleaner on their mounts and is there an easy way to remove and replace them?
You will need to replace the sppedo head assembly which involves taking apart the speedometer.
Originally Posted by 7ron9
While trying to replace inop light bulbs the speedo needle sheared from its mounting pin at its base. The needle is ok but the mounting pin is broken ...not good. Do I have to remove the mileage/trip assy? Also some of the bulbs are ok when jiggled. Can I spray contact cleaner on their mounts and is there an easy way to remove and replace them?
You can replace the whole speedometer, which means dropping the steering wheel and taking out speedometer/tachometer assembly also. I know, same thing happened to me. I am driving by the tachometer now. Have used Ulysses Pro android app to get my speed and then divide by the rpm's to get a multiple. Mine is 3.3+. Which means, at 2000 rpm, going at 66 mph.
If you have just a bit of the pin sticking out, consider getting a very small diameter tube and super glue is on the bit sticking out. Put your needle in the other end. I have the small diameter tube. Just have not done it yet. Bubba lives.
You can replace the whole speedometer, which means dropping the steering wheel and taking out speedometer/tachometer assembly also.
Either you have to get new speedometer...or send yours out to a gauge shop that can rebuild that one.
I have never tired or I seriously doubt I would ever try to use a tube and glue to fix a customers speedometer. Seems like I would be forever 'married to it' and having to fix it often.
You will also need to loosen the two nuts at the base of teh steering column at the firewall so the column can drop down a tab bit further.
Simply removing the two bolts that hold the steering column to the support bracket often times does not allow the steering column to drop down that much.
The socket for the two bolts that hold the column to the support bracket is a 9/16". The socket for the two nuts is a 1/2".
You may possibly also have two hidden screws that you can see when you look up from the bottom of the dash that screw into the main housing of the speedo/tach housing. Just to the left and right where the steering column is. If my memory serves me correctly ...those screws take a 1/4" socket.
I have never tired or I seriously doubt I would ever try to use a tube and glue to fix a customers speedometer. Seems like I would be forever 'married to it' and having to fix it often.
DUB
Probably why I have not done it yet. Have a replacement speedo. Too old to get down and try to drop steering wheel, release speedo/tach, etc to replace the speedo. Going to try the tube method and if it does not work, will have to either live with no needle or too many $ for a shop to replace the speedo.
Tube is off some holding brackets on a candle draft protector (glass sleeve on brass candle topper with small brackets, lined with the mentioned tube protectors for the glass sleeve to rest on). Used in our church on Communion Sundays (Protestant, not Catholic). We got the brass candlesticks in Mexico from a Catholic church that burned down. Candlesticks are 3' tall. Have two sets. Maybe $100 for all four. SOLID brass. Unbelievable shine when cleaned up. But, too much information. If you care, I can tell you how to remove tarnish on solid brash in 30 seconds!
Last edited by Wrecked82; Feb 15, 2018 at 09:00 PM.
You can replace the whole speedometer, which means dropping the steering wheel and taking out speedometer/tachometer assembly also. I know, same thing happened to me. I am driving by the tachometer now. Have used Ulysses Pro android app to get my speed and then divide by the rpm's to get a multiple. Mine is 3.3+. Which means, at 2000 rpm, going at 66 mph.
If you have just a bit of the pin sticking out, consider getting a very small diameter tube and super glue is on the bit sticking out. Put your needle in the other end. I have the small diameter tube. Just have not done it yet. Bubba lives.
What did you use for a tube? Like working on a circuit board but the idea sounds great. Beats the alternative of pulling the whole assembly. My tach works and gearing ratio 2.0. I call it double needles so 2000 revs equates to 40 mph.
What did you use for a tube? Like working on a circuit board but the idea sounds great. Beats the alternative of pulling the whole assembly. My tach works and gearing ratio 2.0. I call it double needles so 2000 revs equates to 40 mph.
Thank you
7ron9
See my post above yours. The candle draft protectors had some small tubes on the brackets that held the glass sleeves. Maybe hard to understand. But some of the tubes were missing, so, what the hey, one more went missing for me to use. Absent such a tube, think about a very small dowel or something from a hobby shop that you can bubba up.
Try to consider the added weight on the shaft due to added adhesives that are not normally their when the gauge was designed.
It is kinda like putting really heavy wheels on your car and expect it to handle like it did with the light weight aluminum ones. There is a difference...in that scenario.
BUT...knowing that it is in the center...and not like adding weight to the tip of the needle...it might be fine...but I would still take it into consideration...and that is only because if I go throguh all of what I would need to do to fix it and it did not work...it was a waste of my time...and that time is the time I could have used to actually get something repaired and be able to invoice a customer for...so my thinking is different.
If you guys try it and it works I am super happy that you repaired it.
If my tube weighs more than a gram I would be surprised. Think I will find a fine scale at work and weight maybe 1/4+" of a very small diameter plastic sleeve.
I respect your advice which is always valuable, but sometimes the cost justifies a small idea before the bigger bucks are spent.
At this point, after two years, do not even miss the speedo. All done by rpm's and general speed of traffic.
Last edited by Wrecked82; Feb 16, 2018 at 08:36 PM.
Thanks for your interest and input. Plan on getting a needle from a drug store. They are stainless steel, light weight, strong and a good bore, just hope I have enough of a nub left to get a bite, put a small droplet of super glue inside the tube and attach avoiding contact with the retaining clip. once secure I'll attach the speedo needle to the opposite end of the tube cut to the same length as the shaft that sheared. not to much effort and worth the try.
Thanks for your interest and input. Plan on getting a needle from a drug store. They are stainless steel, light weight, strong and a good bore, just hope I have enough of a nub left to get a bite, put a small droplet of super glue inside the tube and attach avoiding contact with the retaining clip. once secure I'll attach the speedo needle to the opposite end of the tube cut to the same length as the shaft that sheared. not to much effort and worth the try.
7ron9
That is exactly what I am going to do. Never thought about a needle from a pharmacist. Looking forward to how it works out.
Me too. That was BRILLIANT! Using a hypodermic needle.
DUB
So, I am assuming the hype needle would go over the broken off staff of the needle and base. I had assumed the "patch" would be an a sleeve over the stub of the needle and the base still on the speedo itself. Otherwise, and this is a serious question, how do you get the stub off/out of the base. Can you pull it out of the base and insert the needle? If so, that is the best solution yet! I just don't want to pull the stub out of the base if it will ruin very other solution.
BTW, if you are just replacing the stem of the needle and into the speedo base, skip the needle, Just get a pin from your wife and clip off the ends and push into the needle. Its the right diameter.
When it as written that the needle was coming from a pharmacist. I could only assume that it was a hypodermic needle. But I guess it could be a needle that would be used to sew. But that type of needle does not need to be purchased at a pharmacy.
Was doing some repairs on my 82 tody and needed some heat shrink tubing. Have a nice supply with a lot of looser pieces in a zip-lock. Any way, saw I has a very, very small diameter section of heat shrink. So, if there is a stub on the speedo still there, would be possible to connect the speedo needle shaft to the shaft remaining, if this is the situation, on the speedometer, and shrinking the tubing with hot air blower or quick, and I mean quick, passes of a flame from enough of a distance to avoid damage to speedo, but shrink the tubing. What has always bothered me in the back of my mind of using some sort of glue was it would freeze the base stub. Hope this makes sense. Am I Bubba?
Was doing some repairs on my 82 tody and needed some heat shrink tubing. Have a nice supply with a lot of looser pieces in a zip-lock. Any way, saw I has a very, very small diameter section of heat shrink. So, if there is a stub on the speedo still there, would be possible to connect the speedo needle shaft to the shaft remaining, if this is the situation, on the speedometer, and shrinking the tubing with hot air blower or quick, and I mean quick, passes of a flame from enough of a distance to avoid damage to speedo, but shrink the tubing. What has always bothered me in the back of my mind of using some sort of glue was it would freeze the base stub. Hope this makes sense. Am I Bubba?
Have not done the repair yet and I am concerned with the glue coming into contact with the shaft retaining clip. Also the glue can become brittle and crack. Still worth the try. Replacing the speed cup assy. is the real fix but dont have the bench equipment to calibrate the speed cup. Heat shrink tubing is a good idea although I don't know what material that is ?
Have not done the repair yet and I am concerned with the glue coming into contact with the shaft retaining clip. Also the glue can become brittle and crack. Still worth the try. Replacing the speed cup assy. is the real fix but dont have the bench equipment to calibrate the speed cup. Heat shrink tubing is a good idea although I don't know what material that is ?
7ron9
I am with you on the glue coming in contact with the base. Why I have not done it yet. Heat shrink is just tubing that shrinks in diameter when heated up - hair dryer to quick pass of flame. Tube tightens on whatever it is slipped over. If that is what you were asking.
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