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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Default 74 Paint code

I am looking to see if anyone has recently matched the 1974 80L paint code, if so what brand and what was the code?

Also could you add a pic of it?

I have seen the websites converting, but wanted some hands on experience.

Thanks
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 05:51 PM
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Does this help? It's from the Auto Color Library. The '74 Code 80 appears to be a little darker than the later Orange cars. Looks like a great color.
Sorry, I have not used this color personally.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 07:01 PM
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You can call 1-800-647-6050 and get to the 'color library' and see of PPG has formula for it on file which they should. AND if they do...it may also depend on what paint system they have that formula in.

VALSPAR, NEXA, DuPONT, SHERWIN -WILLIAMS, SIKKENS, PRO SPRAY may also be other alternatives.

Not knowing if you are dong an over-all paint job or touching up some damage makes HUGE difference.

DUB
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 07:11 PM
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This is a complete paint job

This is a 1974 convertible number matching BB with a 4-Speed.

Last edited by bballboy06; Feb 18, 2018 at 08:32 AM. Reason: more info
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
You can call 1-800-647-6050 and get to the 'color library' and see of PPG has formula for it on file which they should. AND if they do...it may also depend on what paint system they have that formula in.

VALSPAR, NEXA, DuPONT, SHERWIN -WILLIAMS, SIKKENS, PRO SPRAY may also be other alternatives.

Not knowing if you are dong an over-all paint job or touching up some damage makes HUGE difference.

DUB
Dub
Always like to read your responses. Just curious though when you talk about a Huge difference.
Thanks
Larry
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by red topless gator
Dub
Always like to read your responses. Just curious though when you talk about a Huge difference.
Thanks
Larry
Larry,

When painting a car over-all. If the color is off a shade...I would bet that 99.9% of the people who see it would not even be able to tell.

How do I know this...because I have 'variant decks' in my paint system that show that the factory can not get their paint colors perfect all the time. Due to these colors are being shot in numerous factory locations across the country...there is no way that each and every color mix is perfect every time. And if is it a specific color used on a Corvette only...then it still can be off because they will shoot that color several times throughout the model year..and the chances that that color is perfect all the time is also highly unlikely.
.
BUT...when a person is matching an existing color on a car. Using the formula that a paint manufacturer has decided is the NUMBER ONE FORMULA....if a person goes out and buys that color. The chances that THAT color will match old paint is HIGHLY unlikely....thus...the color will need to either be tinted...or completely remixed and some pigment amounts left out to chance the color and allow the painter to add what is needed to bring the color up to match as close as possible...to make it a 'blendable match'....when he is shooting out test panels to check the color mix.

Trying to mix a color and have it be able to 'butt-match'...is another thing entirely also. Getting a paint to perfectly 'butt match' is REALLY HARD to do and takes a lot of time. Think of it being like having to paint a new headlight door and have it perfectly match the paint that is on the car.

DUB
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 06:32 PM
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I have that color on a 80 Z/28. I can look for the code tomorrow on the top of the can. The paint shop I use said he still had enough of the old paint to mix up to paint it identical to the 80 paint. Was it lead based? I did the inside and door jambs with the single stage and am contemplating doing the body in the old paint, single stage, or base clear.
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 06:55 PM
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Paint back in the very early 80's did still have lead in it if I am not mistaken.

I seriously doubt that the paint shop has the old toners from the early 80's and that they are still any good at this time....but maybe they still are. But I seriously doubt it. I have toners on my mixing machine that I have not needed in years and they have rocked up solid in the mixing can or they are so thick. They can not be used and be able to guarantee that the color would come out to the correct color.

DUB
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 01:21 PM
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Here is the code for the paint, I will put all the #s as I don't know what would be needed.
Paint code 74 Code 523F
UFN 2146417...........
53-5070-00-C..........
Hugger Orange........
Crossfire Silver 5.0 A/E
RO#....................
CA209 Accelerator 82.1
CF134 Bright Red 558.9
CF 129 Clean yellow 289.4
CF118 Oxide Red 139.1
CF122 Strong White 10.8
CF214 5.0 AE mix
CF224 Voc Balance 65.1
Voc (#/gl) 4.49
This is the code for the single stage'''''''''''''
Next is the code for the base coat.......Code 79
4955096-B
103-2585.1
130-108.6
100-60.3
122-30.1
223-1450.8
Here is another code, Not sure if old paint or maybe ureathane/lacquer?
53-QA
1704227-B
209-38.2
103-498.8
130-20.7
100-11.6
122-6.1
214-338.7
224-99.0
The above is what I was given by the paint shop and it has matched my factory original paint so far. Any questions ask Dub because I would not know what I was talking about. lol
On the factory original paint I have seen my car go through a range of colors depending on lighting, from red to orange and even a hue of pink.

Last edited by lbzraptor; Feb 20, 2018 at 01:25 PM.
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