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75 Manuel Reverse Interlock and Hurst Shifter

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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 11:55 AM
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Default 75 Manuel Reverse Interlock and Hurst Shifter

Hey Gang!!

So I am rebuilding (frame on restoration) my 75 c3. Its a Manuel 4 speed. Transmission has been rebuilt and I installed a new Hurst Competition shifter and mounting kit. I also install a new interlock cable for that reverse lockout. Problem is,it worked before but it was stiff as hell to get the car in reverse.Now, with the cable off (disconnected at the column) it shifts great into all gears and smooth. With the cable back on at the column, it won't go into reverse at all. The new cable is the same as the old one minus the piles of grease. The new rod bracket for reverse is a about a 1.5" lower then the old one. It came with the install kit and matched the new linkage so I used it.

Any Idea's how to fix this issue? Do I need that cable connected at the column?
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Old Mar 11, 2018 | 11:15 PM
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No answers yet? That's unusual for this forum.

I can't advise on the interlock cable. My understanding is that the reverse interlock is disabled on the Hurst shifter, but I think that refers to the t-handle that needs to be pulled up to shift into reverse on the stock shifter. Mine car came with the Hurst.

When you say it won't go into reverse at all, does that mean you can't shift into reverse, pushing the reverse linkage forward from the leftmost neutral position, or that you can't get the Hurst shifter into the leftmost position at all to engage the reverse linkage arm?

If the later is the case, I found that pushing the shifter over usually engages 1st. To get it into reverse, I have to really slap it, and I have to slap it like I mean it. It also helps to shift into and out of 1st gear first.

Hopefully this is helpful.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 07:12 AM
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Hi c,
Is connecting the cable to the "1-1/2" lower reverse lever" on the transmission putting too sharp a bend in the lock-out cable where it exits the sheath?
Regards,
Alan

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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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As mentioned above, on a Hurst shifter when it's in the neutral gate, you have to slap it all the way to the left to get it to go into the reverse gate, so slap it to the left, and then up.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 12:09 PM
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collinde
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
No answers yet? That's unusual for this forum.

I can't advise on the interlock cable. My understanding is that the reverse interlock is disabled on the Hurst shifter, but I think that refers to the t-handle that needs to be pulled up to shift into reverse on the stock shifter. Mine car came with the Hurst.

When you say it won't go into reverse at all, does that mean you can't shift into reverse, pushing the reverse linkage forward from the leftmost neutral position, or that you can't get the Hurst shifter into the leftmost position at all to engage the reverse linkage arm?

If the later is the case, I found that pushing the shifter over usually engages 1st. To get it into reverse, I have to really slap it, and I have to slap it like I mean it. It also helps to shift into and out of 1st gear first.

Hopefully this is helpful.
The problem is getting it up all the way. It seems to jam.
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 12:11 PM
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collinde
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi c,
Is connecting the cable to the "1-1/2" lower reverse lever" on the transmission putting too sharp a bend in the lock-out cable where it exits the sheath?
Regards,
Alan

I was wandering if the new bracket created to sharp of a bend or to much slack causing the cable to bend. I am going to play around with the original bracket and see if that helps.
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Old Mar 14, 2018 | 08:30 PM
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Well after a long conversation with Hurst, there is nothing I can do if I want the Hurst shifter, then no reverse lock out, its that simple. The Hurst bracket does create to sharp of a bend and you can not use the original bracket with the Hurst shifter from reverse.It hits the new rods. Unless someone on here has made a custom bracket and is willing to do it again (for sale) I am stuck without it. Its no biggy really, kind of thought that feature was dumb anyways, but the car had it and other then the common known issues that needed to be upgraded like brakes, horse power and cooling, I wanted this car back to original looking as possible.

My shifter though,with the cable all disconnected I do not need to slap my shifter into reverse. It goes in just as nice as first to 4 does. A lot nicer then originally I will admit. There are tabs on the brackets (a little metal bushing that fits inside the new brackets where the nut tightens down) and if these tabs are not grinded smooth off the back side on the reverse bracket, it does shift rougher.
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