Engine builder





Then I have the motor that my dad replaced the stock one with (he blew the stock motor racing). It is also a 350, .030 over built to 1970 LT1 specs. That motor was running high compression and several other things, blue printed etc. It was a pain and not very street friendly setup. I am considering going to a 383 stroker with it and making it something with good power but still usable.
Anyone have information, good or bad, on engine builders in the area? What should I expect pricing wise to get the work done? The L48 block is bare and I have the heads which are more or less complete but need redone I'm sure (that motor was probably blown when I was less then 10 years old so some 27 years ago. The 4 bolt block is all there but a couple of the push rods I took out were bent. The heads already have some work done and the rocker arms are a nice set. Needs everything checked.


new seats,guides,pushrods, valves and springs to match your cam.
then your bottom end, crank rods and pistons, your looking at 4-5k to build a performance motor, mine looks stock but is all new inside !
Building a good solid 383 or 427 small block wouldn't really be any cheaper, but worth it.
If you're working on a budget go with the L48 buildup and have the engine builder inspect what you have and go from there. You might be surprised at how little this cost.
Assuming the L48 is not blown or worn out (never know) you might get away with rings, bearings, gasket set and a valve job.
also beware of shops that just take your parts and ship them somewhere else to their contractors that will do the actual rebuilding. you want a shop that does the work themselves, has the machining equipment themselves, and also choose one that is not currently training an apprentice..
also beware of shops that just take your parts and ship them somewhere else to their contractors that will do the actual rebuilding. you want a shop that does the work themselves, has the machining equipment themselves, and also choose one that is not currently training an apprentice..
Very good advice. I would add that when you find a shop check with him on his back log of work. And, find out if he has a customer base of racers and gets swamped at certain times of the year. "Walk ins" always take second priority to their major customers, which is understandable but just something to be aware of going in. I learned that the hard way a number of years ago. Of course you would want to check recommendations from previous customers, which is normally available with minimal research with the internet.
Last edited by 68/BB; Mar 14, 2018 at 10:08 AM.
Get to know the machine shop personnel if you can.
The machine shop helping me also sells speed equipment.
I started going in and purchasing some parts and picking the owner's brain.
We worked out a good deal on equipment prices.
I'll find the cheapest price I can and if he can beat that price and still make some money, I buy through him.
He has shared his knowledge and experience which has helped me out.
The machining will be done in house and the owner will guide me through the assembly then they will dyno tune the motor once it is complete.
It's been a great experience and I'm still learning.


you will quickly figure out who is building the winning racers.
This is not the time for shopping for cheapest solution.
a good engine builder will not be the cheapest solution.
Last edited by 69Vett; Mar 14, 2018 at 12:27 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





The motor my dad then replaced the stocker with is a 4 bolt main 350, this is the one (since it is not the original) I was planning to have rebuilt and push to a 383 motor. Then use this one in the car while keeping the stock unit in my basement, safe. I don't need anything too crazy but want a solid motor, of course with some bite not just bark. I want/need it to be suitable to drive and would plan to do some local events, maybe take it to some race tracks when I go watch and down to Bowling Green events. I could possible do some solo events but I work most weekends so it would not be many because of my schedule.
If you're working on a budget go with the L48 buildup and have the engine builder inspect what you have and go from there. You might be surprised at how little this cost.
Assuming the L48 is not blown or worn out (never know) you might get away with rings, bearings, gasket set and a valve job.
Fair, honest etc
You can page him in the C4 tech section. I dont trust "crate" motors as far as I can throw them. Great machining/balancing is everything moreso than expensive parts.










The oil pan was damaged, a couple rockers were broke and the studs were bent.
The shipping company and builder argued for over six months before the motor was shipped back to the builder and I was to get a replacement.
Upon return they shipped back the same motor and only replaced the two rocker arms, straightened the studs and didn't replace the pan.
I argued with them for over a month before they took the motor back, put in two new studs and replaced the pan. They refused to replace the aluminum head and said there was no damage to the stud holes.
Total time to get the motor was close to 1 1/2 years. and they wanted me to pay all the shipping costs.
I sold the motor on Craigslist for less than I paid, bought a bare 351 sbf block and built a new 408.





The oil pan was damaged, a couple rockers were broke and the studs were bent.
The shipping company and builder argued for over six months before the motor was shipped back to the builder and I was to get a replacement.
Upon return they shipped back the same motor and only replaced the two rocker arms, straightened the studs and didn't replace the pan.
I argued with them for over a month before they took the motor back, put in two new studs and replaced the pan. They refused to replace the aluminum head and said there was no damage to the stud holes.
Total time to get the motor was close to 1 1/2 years. and they wanted me to pay all the shipping costs.
I sold the motor on Craigslist for less than I paid, bought a bare 351 sbf block and built a new 408.





I am getting a user not found error when I try to PM him.
thanks for for the PM G. Rossman. I replied with a rough quote.
I failed to mention what the process / machining includes so here it is.
Machine Work (Includes the Following)
-Block Inspection
-Race Prep / Stress Relief (deburing of critical sharp edges)
-Align Honing
-Torque Plats Cylinder Honing with Plateau Finish
-Block Surfacing (Truing Deck setting Quench Distance)
-Final Cleaning of Block and components
-Checking and Correcting if necessary Crank straightness anc Journal Out of Round (evey Crank goes through this process with me, new or not.
-Rotating Assembly Balancing
-Block Blue Printing and assembly.












