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I am looking for an engine builder. I have finally moved my 1971 Corvette to my new house and space is tight. I have the stock block and heads which I want to have redone to stock 1971 L48 specs. It is only a 2 bolt.
Then I have the motor that my dad replaced the stock one with (he blew the stock motor racing). It is also a 350, .030 over built to 1970 LT1 specs. That motor was running high compression and several other things, blue printed etc. It was a pain and not very street friendly setup. I am considering going to a 383 stroker with it and making it something with good power but still usable.
Anyone have information, good or bad, on engine builders in the area? What should I expect pricing wise to get the work done? The L48 block is bare and I have the heads which are more or less complete but need redone I'm sure (that motor was probably blown when I was less then 10 years old so some 27 years ago. The 4 bolt block is all there but a couple of the push rods I took out were bent. The heads already have some work done and the rocker arms are a nice set. Needs everything checked.
To build one right, the heads will need complete Head rework. cost about 1200
new seats,guides,pushrods, valves and springs to match your cam.
then your bottom end, crank rods and pistons, your looking at 4-5k to build a performance motor, mine looks stock but is all new inside !
I'm over $7000.00 in parts for my 496 build and I haven't even turned a wrench yet . The only thing I will be using from the OEM motor is the bare block. I'll be another $3000.00 in parts before I'm done then I'm still looking at machine work.
Building a good solid 383 or 427 small block wouldn't really be any cheaper, but worth it.
So what motor are you putting in the 71 Corvette, the L48 or 383? Getting the L48 long blocked is not a very expensive undertaking and $1200 for a valve job is over the top for a stock L48.
If you're working on a budget go with the L48 buildup and have the engine builder inspect what you have and go from there. You might be surprised at how little this cost.
Assuming the L48 is not blown or worn out (never know) you might get away with rings, bearings, gasket set and a valve job.
just remember that if you choose a place not in your home town, the cost massively escalates with shipping back and forth.
also beware of shops that just take your parts and ship them somewhere else to their contractors that will do the actual rebuilding. you want a shop that does the work themselves, has the machining equipment themselves, and also choose one that is not currently training an apprentice..
just remember that if you choose a place not in your home town, the cost massively escalates with shipping back and forth.
also beware of shops that just take your parts and ship them somewhere else to their contractors that will do the actual rebuilding. you want a shop that does the work themselves, has the machining equipment themselves, and also choose one that is not currently training an apprentice..
Very good advice. I would add that when you find a shop check with him on his back log of work. And, find out if he has a customer base of racers and gets swamped at certain times of the year. "Walk ins" always take second priority to their major customers, which is understandable but just something to be aware of going in. I learned that the hard way a number of years ago. Of course you would want to check recommendations from previous customers, which is normally available with minimal research with the internet.
Ask around the community and get recommendations.
Get to know the machine shop personnel if you can.
The machine shop helping me also sells speed equipment.
I started going in and purchasing some parts and picking the owner's brain.
We worked out a good deal on equipment prices.
I'll find the cheapest price I can and if he can beat that price and still make some money, I buy through him.
He has shared his knowledge and experience which has helped me out.
The machining will be done in house and the owner will guide me through the assembly then they will dyno tune the motor once it is complete.
It's been a great experience and I'm still learning.
go to local races ask around for good local machinist/Engine builder.
you will quickly figure out who is building the winning racers.
This is not the time for shopping for cheapest solution.
a good engine builder will not be the cheapest solution.
For now the plan is to put the L48 back together and put it on an engine cradle in the man cave, that is the stock block and heads. That motor was blown when I was a kid when my dad raced the car.
The motor my dad then replaced the stocker with is a 4 bolt main 350, this is the one (since it is not the original) I was planning to have rebuilt and push to a 383 motor. Then use this one in the car while keeping the stock unit in my basement, safe. I don't need anything too crazy but want a solid motor, of course with some bite not just bark. I want/need it to be suitable to drive and would plan to do some local events, maybe take it to some race tracks when I go watch and down to Bowling Green events. I could possible do some solo events but I work most weekends so it would not be many because of my schedule.
Originally Posted by Mr D.
So what motor are you putting in the 71 Corvette, the L48 or 383? Getting the L48 long blocked is not a very expensive undertaking and $1200 for a valve job is over the top for a stock L48.
If you're working on a budget go with the L48 buildup and have the engine builder inspect what you have and go from there. You might be surprised at how little this cost.
Assuming the L48 is not blown or worn out (never know) you might get away with rings, bearings, gasket set and a valve job.
look up jim barth aka tpi421vette for a well done 383 that wont come apart
Fair, honest etc
You can page him in the C4 tech section. I dont trust "crate" motors as far as I can throw them. Great machining/balancing is everything moreso than expensive parts.
look up jim barth aka tpi421vette for a well done 383 that wont come apart
Fair, honest etc
You can page him in the C4 tech section. I dont trust "crate" motors as far as I can throw them. Great machining/balancing is everything moreso than expensive parts.
That is not what I would expect to hear...good to know. Thanks.
When it was shipped to me the motor stand collapsed inside the create and it was bouncing around during the shipment.
The oil pan was damaged, a couple rockers were broke and the studs were bent.
The shipping company and builder argued for over six months before the motor was shipped back to the builder and I was to get a replacement.
Upon return they shipped back the same motor and only replaced the two rocker arms, straightened the studs and didn't replace the pan.
I argued with them for over a month before they took the motor back, put in two new studs and replaced the pan. They refused to replace the aluminum head and said there was no damage to the stud holes.
Total time to get the motor was close to 1 1/2 years. and they wanted me to pay all the shipping costs.
I sold the motor on Craigslist for less than I paid, bought a bare 351 sbf block and built a new 408.
When it was shipped to me the motor stand collapsed inside the create and it was bouncing around during the shipment.
The oil pan was damaged, a couple rockers were broke and the studs were bent.
The shipping company and builder argued for over six months before the motor was shipped back to the builder and I was to get a replacement.
Upon return they shipped back the same motor and only replaced the two rocker arms, straightened the studs and didn't replace the pan.
I argued with them for over a month before they took the motor back, put in two new studs and replaced the pan. They refused to replace the aluminum head and said there was no damage to the stud holes.
Total time to get the motor was close to 1 1/2 years. and they wanted me to pay all the shipping costs.
I sold the motor on Craigslist for less than I paid, bought a bare 351 sbf block and built a new 408.
look up jim barth aka tpi421vette for a well done 383 that wont come apart
Fair, honest etc
You can page him in the C4 tech section. I dont trust "crate" motors as far as I can throw them. Great machining/balancing is everything moreso than expensive parts.
I am getting a user not found error when I try to PM him.
03-12-2018, 06:09 PM
Engine builder
Very good advice. I would add that when you find a shop check with him on his back log of work. And, find out if he has a customer base of racers and gets swamped at certain times of the year. "Walk ins" always take second priority to their major customers, which is understandable but just something to be aware of going in. I learned that the hard way a number of years ago. Of course you would want to check recommendations from previous customers, which is normally available with minimal research with the internet.
