Having issues with a mini starter that came with my Vette. Looks like I need to order another solenoid. Second one in a year. These things seem to be very unreliable. Space and heat are definitely an issue, not to mention the compression factor. I don't believe a stock starter motor will work. On the fence about ordering a better quality mini starter, like an MSD. But they are over 300$. Curious if any members have gone this route, and could offer suggestions.

 

what brand are you using? and what kind of compression?

I've got 3 mini starters turning over 9:1, 11:1 and 10.5:1 sbc and bbc an I've never had a single issue.

1 is a powermaster, I think the other are tuff stuff maybe?

 

I bought a heat shield wrap when I put my mini starter on and it helped out a lot. Haven't killed a starter in five years or more.

 

I got a factory style PMGR starter for $60. Probably has plastic gears, but so far is spins my 496 over like nothing. And both the oil pan and headers don't leave a lot of room.

 

I used a gear reduction starter from a 1996 full size Chev truck with a 350. Its been on there for years with no problems and they go for about $100. Watch - now I've jinxed it and it will fail tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the response. Starter is a power master. Engine is a 1971 11-1 compression 454 from a Chevelle. Had a hard time shimming this starter the PO couldn't get it right. Knocking out solenoids but starter motor is OK. Starting to suspect the flywheel could be bent.

 

IF its the type of mini starter that the starter gear is not supported on the flywheel side, it will likely give you problems with tooth clearance etc etc...mainly because the gear is not consistent when its launched into the flywheel... No amount of shimming or alignment will solve this permanently. If your flywheel has a little extra run out (warped) it makes it even worse.




I went through 2 Summit mini starters, a TCI mini starter and another unknown brand, I had problems with all three staying aligned after a few hot restarts and the starter gear banging into the teeth of the flywheels...no matter how much clearance/lash I adjusted. It was never consistent because the starter gears had so much up and down movement when deployed.


The fix for this is a mini starter with the nose cone style with the starter gear shaft supported on the flywheel side. This is the "Hitatchi" style, or also known as the "GM mini starter"... The engagement is more consistent and even the teeth will be more "curved" for easier engagement.





You can usually get these for $150 or so, you won't likely need any shims or anything...Just bolt on and go.

I actually use one from O Reily's, its their Ultima brand, new. Its been on my 10-1 496 with locked out timing for 6-7 years now and at least 15-16k miles, never an issue with it. The motor is TINY on it and it will be far away from header heat.





If you do go with the "Hitatchi" style starter, make sure to get the correct metric OD shank starter bolts for it. You can get them at any GM dealer for $10. They are an odd size and you NEED to use them for the starter to stay located correctly. Both the starter and bolts are listed as 1996-1998 5.7L 350 engine components, and yes, they'll start a big block fine.

 

I use the same one. The other styles caused me nothing but issues.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0031-l.html

 

I used a DB Electrical on my car too... works great so far without fail. Inexpensive too.

mardyn

 

That's what I did for my 11:1 SBC. Ebay special for less than $50 + bought the GM 10mm bolts separately. Been on over 3 years now and no issues so far.

 

If you are so inclined, you can send the starter in to Powermaster. They will diagnose it. You pay only for the parts that it takes to fix it. They don't charge labor to rebuild it. These people have excellent customer service. I would give them a call to help with your issue.

By the way I run a Powermaster starter and alternator.


Craig

 

I hope you guys have better luck than I with the cheap PMGR starters. Luckily my broke when I went to pull into my garage.



Running a NAPA starter now. Had it for a few years - never missed a beat.

 

I was going through starters about every 2 - 3 years. After 2 starters, got a Protorque from Summit Racing, wrapped with a heat shield and has lasted 15 years so far.

 

and here factory starters have been known to last 50 odd years without major problems

 

Maybe with a stock tune of 4-6 degrees advance. When you go to a performance tune of 18-20 degrees advance, the stock starter is a no go.

 

Not after a performance tune or header install.

 

Decided to purchase the GM mini starter with the nose cone. Went with the Ultima brand from O'Reilly's. Would like to have saved some coin, by going the DB electric route but feel better about the return factor as the parts store is down the street . Picking up the bolts after work, and out to the shop to try this. Not going to get rid of the Power master , I ordered another solenoid and will keep it on the shelf for future projects.