Long story short, the front of the hood and the bodywork ahead of it used to fit pretty decently, gap and height wise. I pulled the body off a while back to do a C4 suspension installment, and after reinstalling the body I now have daylight (about an eighth inch) between the bottom of the hood and the top of the forward bodywork. It looks like I have the front bodywork adjusted too low, or the hood has taken a slight flattening from the hinges forward (less curvature downward). The reason I mention the hood curvature is that I had it stored in a hot attic for a couple summers while I did the frame mods (it would be nice if there were NASCAR type templates of the hood that I could compare to see if the hood is flatter/distorted). So, right now I'm loosening everything on the front to see if I can adjust out some of the mismatch. (I even made shorter height hood hinges to drop the hood front a touch.)

Just looking for a bit of constructive advice while I loosen everything up and start wiggling things around.

Thanks for any help.

 

I would be more than glad to help...but in this type of scenario. I need to see what you see.

So taking very good clear photos can help. Make sure the camera angles of your photos will allow the height difference to be seen. Even if you put a piece of tape on the panel beside where there is a problem and write on it can help also.

And what I also need to see and get you to respond on is. When the hood is shut. The area right beside where your hood hinges are located. Does the hood sit flush with the top hood surround or is it higher or lower. THIS IS CRITICAL for me to know this.

DUB

 

I will be paying attention to this thread/similar problem

 

Here's a couple quick pictures I found (Most of my others are locked up in Photobucket) that show the hood mismatch. The driver's side height mismatch (at the hinge area) is about 1/8", with the hood being lower than the fender at the gap, while the passenger side is about a quarter inch lower than the fender. And as I believe I mentioned, there's about an eighth inch of daylight between the bottom of the hood front and the top of the frontal bodywork.






As I mentioned earlier, the hood fitment didn't look this bad before I pulled the body off.

 

GOOD NEWS: This can be repaired.

BAD NEWS: It will depend if you want to do it or not.

Also I need current photo(s). A photo looking at the front edge of the hood where it is raised above the top hood surround. And I would do this AFTER you have corrected the hood being lower than the top hood surround at the hinges.

Obviously you know you can install shims between the hood hinge and the inner skirt to get the hood flush by the hinge area.

Not knowing IF any of your bonds have broken loose where the inner skirt and top hood surround are bonded. I can only assume they are good...unless you come back and state otherwise.

Also do a visual and see if you have the gussets that are used to support the ends of the headlight support bar. These gussets are triangle shaped and bolted to the front side of your inner skirts and then they get bolted to the very end of the headlight support beam that is boned to the top hood surround.

I also assume that this is an aftermarket hood from the photos you posted.

Last question. Knowing this has been off the frame...IS everything else good to go. meaning the body has been indexed to the frame...and ALL bumper support braces and brackets installed to further secure the very front of the body at the bumper area???

The reason I am asking this is becasue...the body can actually be pulled forward...thus stretching it. Because ..if you carefully watch the front wheel well lips at the 12 o'clock position. IF you pull forward on the front of the body..you can draw the fenders inwards...and if you push it back...the wheel well lips can actually bow outwards. This action can allow the gaps to be changed between the front edge of the hood and the top hood surround...while ALSO allowing the gaps at the wiper door grille to be increased. This action is also controlled by the front crossmember and the frame extension brackets coming of the frame..which can change the allowable movement in the radiator support. And..knowing that the frame extension brackets that get bolted to the end of the frame rails..they can be slightly tilted and cause the angle on the #1 crossmember...which can change things.

I seriously doubt any of what I just wrote will do anything to correct the hood being lower...but all of this can add up and cause for issues. BUT it can make a huge difference if you have bonding areas that have separated and thus the panel is now not being controlled by that bond point.

DUB

 

I appreciate the reply. Lots to digest there.

The hood is the original. I did cut the center out of it decades ago and glassed the raised section on to clear the high rise intake manifold.

The hood hinges are shorter (aluminum) hinges I fabricated to lower the hood a touch to see if that would improve the hood fit appearance. (It didn't.) I still have the previous stock height aluminum hinges in a box somewhere if it makes sense to raise the hood up a touch.

I'll take a look under the bodywork to try to find some answers to some of your questions.

Thanks again.

 

Thanks Dub....you have explained 100% of the problems I am having with my "previous-owner-installed" clip!

 

'69427'

I have had to fix what you have going on so many times it is almost become second nature to do what I need to get the top hood surround meet the hood. SO...like I wrote...this can be fixed. BUT...it is all depending of you are worried about judges and all that stuff.


'doorgunner',

Glad that what I wrote is helping you out on your project!

DUB

 

No worries at all. Neither I nor the car have ever entered a car show, so nobody's opinion but mine matters about this car. I own this car for performance purposes only. However, as a hands-on kinda guy, I will admit that I prefer to have the individual bits of the car not look like it was just thrown together with no regard to any level of craftsmanship.

 

That's good because the repair that will more than likely fix this is definitely within you capabilities. If interested...PM me.

DUB

 

Still interested in help. I'm currently inspecting stuff underneath to get some answers to some of your questions in your earlier post.

Thanks again.

 

When and if you need my idea. PM me.

DUB