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Started up my new motor and with a combination of too lean of a carb setting and timing on the retarded side she got real hot real fast. four of my header tubes turned a dull chaulky finish on the upper elbows and it's rough to the touch.
Do you think the coating burned off?
Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Is Hooker any good at refunds?
Started up my new motor and with a combination of too lean of a carb setting and timing on the retarded side she got real hot real fast. four of my header tubes turned a dull chaulky finish on the upper elbows and it's rough to the touch.
Do you think the coating burned off?
Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Is Hooker any good at refunds?
Got some pictures. ?
Proper ceramic coated headers don't do that just setting up the carb.
Mine didn't do anything like that even after many track days. Mine measured 590 Degrees F after track sessions.
Mine did that after track duty and they are Jet Hot coated. Engine was dyno tuned and the heads have been off since then and there was no evidence of engine damage. That was years ago. T
FWIW, mine started out shiny almost like chrome and dulled over time to the dull silver that you show on your tubes. I accepted that was what they were supposed to do, and haven't tried to polish them back to shiny.
My Dougs ceramic coated headers on my 78 got too hot when I was setting up my new crate motor. The middle two got slightly red hot. They turned that chalky color but have not gotten worse three years since.
I hate to say it but, most mfgr's have a statement about not using coated headers while breaking in a new engine. The added heat from lean & timing being off probably only dulled the surface. If you can live with that then you should be ok. If not, I don't know if the mfgr will swap you a new set or not.
I hate to say it but, most mfgr's have a statement about not using coated headers while breaking in a new engine. The added heat from lean & timing being off probably only dulled the surface. If you can live with that then you should be ok. If not, I don't know if the mfgr will swap you a new set or not.
I literally just read that today. The Hooker info said the headers must go through a few normal heat cycles to cure and NOT to use them to break in a motor. Why dont guys read instructions?
Well, how many of us have spare headers laying around just for break in? Im running Dougs ceramic coated, Ive broken in 2 engines with these installed. Not "shiny" but they are fine. No rust, still silver. I remember my old headers from back in the day, rust, burned paint, looked awful within months. Stainless turn blue, they just do. Silver ceramic is about as good as they get.