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Its a shame a cool trick signature item like the wiper door takes a hike because some po owner isnt savvy enough or too lazy to simple get it up to par...
Or reach down between his legs and pull the over-ride switch.
Here is what the repro, LT1, L88, L79 air cleaner base looks like. Its a true 2" drop and clears everything on the carb.
Here it is with the factory style lid with the recessed wing nut bubble. Shown with a 3" element.
You really need to have the choke tower removed off of the carb (or use a HP style main body) with this setup....It does clear the vent tubes with about 1/2" of clearance but doesn't cause any running issues.
This is the lowest air cleaner setup you can get that, will still allow a 3" element and not require the bubble lid like the Speedway/Afco....
That said, this air cleaner still kills about 10 rwhp on the chasis dyno on a 650 chp engine. I now run a 4" element and it only kills about 3 rwhp....
The base alone is so good, it makes more power then with nothing at all on the carb. I actually race it with just the base only on it.
Can you post a pict of the top?
does not leave much clearance between the lid and the bottom, what about 1"?
Can you post a pict of the top?
does not leave much clearance between the lid and the bottom, what about 1"?
Without the bubble top, the LT-1 2" drop base almost squashes a 3" element......you really need a 4" element with it......and then you lose some clearance advantage. The bubble top type drop bases were designed more for the ram effect of air rounding the bubble down into the carb. The drop clearance is an added bonus. I've found a 5 hp increase on the engine dyno with the AFCO type vs. the flat type........with both big and small block engines.
Can you post a pict of the top?
does not leave much clearance between the lid and the bottom, what about 1"?
Here is a pic of the lid, this is with the 3" element
Like Ken mentioned, the lid sits down close to the carb throat with a 3" element, it is definitely a restriction if you are making over 500hp.... This is the factory style configuration.
On my car, running this setup, lost 12 rwhp. Going to a 4" element gained 9 rwhp of that back.
Obviously though, you will not have room for a 4" filter under the hood.
For a basic street car with say 500hp or less, the LT1 air cleaner is the best option for fitment under a hood.
The reality is, even an L88 hood is a restriction... I chasis dynoed my car with the air cleaner lid/filter off, only the base on...hood open... Then close the hood and make a pull and it would lose 3 rwhp.... I tested this twice.. Carbs do not like having anything sitting directly above them.
Here is a pic of the lid, this is with the 3" element
Like Ken mentioned, the lid sits down close to the carb throat with a 3" element, it is definitely a restriction if you are making over 500hp.... This is the factory style configuration.
On my car, running this setup, lost 12 rwhp. Going to a 4" element gained 9 rwhp of that back.
Obviously though, you will not have room for a 4" filter under the hood.
For a basic street car with say 500hp or less, the LT1 air cleaner is the best option for fitment under a hood.
The reality is, even an L88 hood is a restriction... I chasis dynoed my car with the air cleaner lid/filter off, only the base on...hood open... Then close the hood and make a pull and it would lose 3 rwhp.... I tested this twice.. Carbs do not like having anything sitting directly above them.
I cut 1/4 inch off the base is have now and that brought the top of the air cleaner down to 4". Only problem is it is rocking and not fully seated due to hitting the float adjusters on the 4150.
I ordered the LT1/L88 drop base and it will be here on Wednesday. We will see what happens then.
Thanks for all your help and endless measurements
A few less horses won't bother me as this is only a street cruiser.
I cut 1/4 inch off the base is have now and that brought the top of the air cleaner down to 4". Only problem is it is rocking and not fully seated due to hitting the float adjusters on the 4150.
I ordered the LT1/L88 drop base and it will be here on Wednesday. We will see what happens then.
Thanks for all your help and endless measurements
A few less horses won't bother me as this is only a street cruiser.
Good deal. As long as it all fits, that’s all that matters. FWIW, I ran 11.0s@124 with the 2” drop base and 3” element....restricted sure but.... still good enough for a cruiser. Less then 500hp I doubt it hurts you much if any.
I cut 1/4 inch off the base is have now and that brought the top of the air cleaner down to 4". Only problem is it is rocking and not fully seated due to hitting the float adjusters on the 4150.
I ordered the LT1/L88 drop base and it will be here on Wednesday. We will see what happens then.
Thanks for all your help and endless measurements
A few less horses won't bother me as this is only a street cruiser.
4" high should fit under the tall L88 hood. A short element loses some horsepower because it runs the engine richer. If you chassis dyno your car you can regain some lost HP by leaning out the jets for best power with the air filter you're running.
I ran into the same issue: I know that my aftermarket manifold and air cleaner will not fit under a stock hood.
You mentioned having a bodyshop glass in a hood scoop. I am currently modifying my stock hood for a stinger style scoop simply because I really like the look
I don't have any finished pictures yet since I just started this project two days ago but it really is not terribly difficult. Here is my progress so far
Marking for the cutout.
The hole
Scoop bonded to the hood.
I chose to go with a lower profile scoop which is giving me approximately 2.5" of extra clearance. It is raining today so I will not be doing any fiberglass work but as soon as it dries up I will be finishing the underside with fiberglass and then blending the scoop into the hood for a seamless look.
That is exactly what I want to do with my stock '71 SB hood. I can't wait to see the final project.
Bashcraft - that looks great. Exactly what I'm going to do someday. Thanks for the picture. I think that I'll move the stinger back a little to get the cowl induction effect. How far does the rear of the stinger go back on your mod?
Bashcraft - that looks great. Exactly what I'm going to do someday. Thanks for the picture. I think that I'll move the stinger back a little to get the cowl induction effect. How far does the rear of the stinger go back on your mod?
It's back as far as it can go without the wiper door hitting it when it opens.
When I put the 406 back in I had to get an L-88 hood to clear the Team G intake, 1/2" spacer and flat base air cleaner as I cannot run a drop base with my regulator setup. I went with ACI after much research. If you call them and said you saw it on E-bay they knock $100 off. The hood was $569 and $140 to ship about 2 years ago.
It fit extremely well out of the box but like most aftermarket C3 hoods....the front needs to be knock down along the front or peak or else it will look like it is duck billing.......
I also had to buy the air chamber from Ecklers.....why does ACI not produce the airbox is still a mystery.....
Anyway.....my friend installed the airbox and epoxied fence wire along the back edge of the scoop to give this area support as they sag over time here. It was finished off and you cannot tell.....along with the airbox.....its looks like it was made that way.
I love the hood......I do not love the 4" one.....it looks a little bulbous to me.....the factory L-88 hood is the standard of scoops in my opinion and it was designed 50 years ago!
17x8 245/45/17 Front
18x9 275/40/18 Rear
American Torq Thrust 2
Jenny
old thread but wanted to ask what the back spacing is on your rear wheels and did you have to use a spacer or make any other mod's to get them to fit? thanks.