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so... up front admission - i'm incapacitated when it comes to electrical stuff.... It's really NOT one of my strong suits!
that said... I thought it'd be a good time to relocate the starting stuff on my '68.. which seemed so simple... and had to replace the cable to the starter motor as the original end disintegrated when I bumped it.
now... I've replaced it...and removed a few earths that are no longer required... only to find that when I turn the key to turn the engine over... it engages that starter... but the starter then won't stop!
the only way to make it stop is to use the kill switch I have that isolates the battery... when I click that back live... nothing happens... until I turn the key - at which point the starter starts, and again won't stop! (fortunately the dizzy has no power atm so it's not starting the engine!)
so... pictures attached.. is anyone able to give me pointers as to what I might have done wrong, or whats not working?
The added starter relay is not stock and my be your problem. You shouldn't need it.
ok - thanks mike..it was there when I bought the car... based on the condition the car was in and the way everything else was (aka BODGED) - I'm guessing it might be there due to a failure in the solenoid switch gear or something - I can't imagine the previous owner put it into the system for no reason.... (much like he replaced the factory air conditioning unit with a medium sized baking tray and a few wood screws to fix it to the glass firewall.. )
I'm guessing (not good idea with my knowledge gap!) that the two centre wires on the relay are the circuit linked to the key, and that when the key is turned to make a circuit - they connect the two big amp wires? - meaning that if I disconnect the starter wire and put a multimeter on it... it should have 12+ V when key is on, but nothing when key is off?
If you don't have a wiring diagram, get one. Eliminate the ford solenoid as it's nothing more than a band-aid. GM has been selling vehicles with the type of starting system you have for years and I don't know of a one of them that came from the factory with a fosdick ford solenoid. Try to restore the wiring to factory and then come back with any problems you might have. And BTW, you can't have too many grounds especially on a fiberglass car.
Just make sure there is no voltage on EITHER starter relay small contact when key is not in crank. I suspect you get alternator volts on S terminal of the starter after engine starts. One of the 2 terminals that fire each solenoid have power on them after key is released.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 5, 2018 at 01:08 PM.
Wow, that solenoid is your problem, don’t as stated earlier get rid of any grounds. I would go to a junkyard and retrieve the starter harness from a older small block Chevy, get the starter too with the harness attached for reference. Find what’s left of the original harness and repair it. Don’t use those type of crimp connectors, they too will create problems later on. Butt splices, solder and heat shrink tubing will make good connections. Practice soldering wires or find someone that can show you how to do it. YouTube videos are good resources too. There is someone on this forum that is offering wiring diagrams for the C3s look for his posts and offers.
harnesses might be available through many of the Corvette venders or parts suppliers..
Last edited by Cooter Tech; Jul 5, 2018 at 01:40 PM.
No. That starter is bad. There is NO wire on the S term. He had to add a separate solenoid cuz starter cranks whenever it has hot on the big wire, like a Ford. Edit from looking at pic below: The post with no wire is R not S terminal. Unused except with points-style distributor.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 5, 2018 at 02:52 PM.
The solenoid could be wired wrong. It was installed originally to help with hot no-start problems. They also make an easy place to hook up a hand held remote starter switch for setting the valves. Try removing the solenoid and see if it solves your problem. You might get back a different problem though. :~D