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The thread below has relevant information for you as well, one of the posts by Willcox has a link to instructions on dash pad removal and installation.
That is pretty clearly a dash pad, and not a complete dash! Hopefully the oyster underneath is salvageable. I'm surprised you were able to get as far as you did without both:
Removing the center console completely (this is not that hard, really)
Dropping the steering column
Be VERY careful dropping the steering column, whether to pull the dash, or whatever. It seems pretty intuitive to take off the panel under the column, take out the two screws that hold the column up, and let the whole thing drop a few inches. IF you do this you will destroy your lower steering column bearing. You need to release the bolts that hold the steering column to the firewall first. For about $50 (nothing if you have an unlimited interior and paint budget), you should probably pick up a shop manual and a factory assembly manual. All of the vendors have them, even Rock Auto.
Good luck! My 80 lost her power steering within a few weeks of ownership. I switched to manual steering and haven't looked back.
At Priya's link it looks like Willcox carries both Corvette America and Al Knoch dash pads, FWIW.
Congrats on the purchase, welcome to the C3 world! That car looks familiar, I live and work in the Temple / Belton area and could swear I've seen it around here before. Looks like you have a bit of a project on your hands, but half the fun of a project is getting to reap the rewards when it's finished!
Last edited by TsuDeltaChi; Aug 20, 2018 at 09:38 AM.
Ok, quick question that I need answered. How do you replace a window motor? I was about to pull the trigger on getting the dash amid other interior parts when I realized there was an easy job that I already had the parts to do: replacing the dead window motors. But I have no idea how on an 80. I have gotten the door panel off and removed the housing for the motor, but do not want to remove the motor because the regulator appears to be spring loaded which seems like it may damage the car if the motor is abruptly removed. Thanks in advance, everyone.
If you mentioned this I missed it, but you have a black dash cover over the oyster dash pad. You can see in the bottom left corner by the A/C vent where it's pulled away. There are 2 hex head screws under where the dash pad meets the center console. You'll have to take those wooden side panels off a and look up where the 2 meet and you'll see the screws. This is likely what's keeping you from getting the dash loose.
If you mentioned this I missed it, but you have a black dash cover over the oyster dash pad. You can see in the bottom left corner by the A/C vent where it's pulled away. There are 2 hex head screws under where the dash pad meets the center console. You'll have to take those wooden side panels off a and look up where the 2 meet and you'll see the screws. This is likely what's keeping you from getting the dash loose.
Thanks! I thought I got all 6, but apparently the other 2 that were attaching the console were 'bubba'd' on. By the way, that is a beautiful car you have there
Last edited by Radster859; Aug 20, 2018 at 07:39 PM.
Ok, quick question that I need answered. How do you replace a window motor? I was about to pull the trigger on getting the dash amid other interior parts when I realized there was an easy job that I already had the parts to do: replacing the dead window motors. But I have no idea how on an 80. I have gotten the door panel off and removed the housing for the motor, but do not want to remove the motor because the regulator appears to be spring loaded which seems like it may damage the car if the motor is abruptly removed. Thanks in advance, everyone.
Follow this link, and expand "Factory Assembly Manual" and "Repair Manual". You want the Corvette shop manual, not the Haynes or the all Chevy vehicles manual.
There are a surprising number of well thought-out instructions with illustrations in those books, including all the screws in the dash, what is inside a door, everything. It'll be the best $40- you ever spend on the car, and you'll have it by Friday. I've never replaced a motor, but I did replace a power door lock, following the instructions in the shop manual.
Follow this link, and expand "Factory Assembly Manual" and "Repair Manual". You want the Corvette shop manual, not the Haynes or the all Chevy vehicles manual.
There are a surprising number of well thought-out instructions with illustrations in those books, including all the screws in the dash, what is inside a door, everything. It'll be the best $40- you ever spend on the car, and you'll have it by Friday. I've never replaced a motor, but I did replace a power door lock, following the instructions in the shop manual.
Haha I was sifting through the box of parts that came with the car and it turns out I already have the repair manual, just ordered the assembly manual
Well, there isnt much to say about today other than "I hate window motors". Got the manuals in and tried my hand at removing the window motor and regulator. Well, small issue is that everything appears to be fused together. Meaning even once I removed EVERY BOLT, the assembly would not budge. Heard you could try to remove the back portion of the motor to manually turn the shaft to adjust the regulator. Well, the bolts on the motor are rusted on. After roughly 2 hours of grinding and brute force, I managed to get the back plate off:
Window motor with rear plate forced off
Unfortunately, while the shaft will spin, the regulator still does not move. Does anyone have a clue how to proceed here?
I haven't done this job, but one thing you can try to break the assembly free is some Kano Kroil. It works just as well as PB Blaster, and smells much better.
Did you drill out the three rivets, or had a PO done this already and replaced them with bolts? Pages 2D-15 and 2D-16 in my copy of the 1980 Shop Manual, and the diagram shows the rivets. I only ask because you only mention bolts.
I haven't done this job, but one thing you can try to break the assembly free is some Kano Kroil. It works just as well as PB Blaster, and smells much better.
Did you drill out the three rivets, or had a PO done this already and replaced them with bolts? Pages 2D-15 and 2D-16 in my copy of the 1980 Shop Manual, and the diagram shows the rivets. I only ask because you only mention bolts.
The rivets were already out. Soaked all the joints in wd40 already, going to give it some time before getting another penetrating oil. Thanks for the help by the way
