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My actron digital meter will not read RPM on my 75 with HEI distributor, it flashes wildly and will not settle down. I have tried the tach wire both in front of and after the capacitor and the coil ground.In all instances my meter negative was tried on the carb, engine ground and alternator ground. It works great on my 70 Dodge A body with 340 engine, electronic distributor and external coil using coil minus and carb ground. Are these new digitals not capable of functioning on the HEI units? My original dash tach works but I suspect it of being 200 to 400rpm high and I just want to verify that discrepancy and have an accurate tuning tool.
Thanks for any help, Jerry
On the engine, under the driver side of the HEI should be a 'tach filter' it's off the tach output line/switch point of the black driver module on bottom of the HEI unit.....so place the test probe to the other end of that tach filter, and it's same spot as your OEM tach on the dash.....
There are two capacitors in the circuit, one inside on the dizzy base near the black driver module, and another in the tach filter.....both of which can fail, and cause who knows what problems.....
On the engine, under the driver side of the HEI should be a 'tach filter' it's off the tach output line/switch point of the black driver module on bottom of the HEI unit.....so place the test probe to the other end of that tach filter, and it's same spot as your OEM tach on the dash.....
There are two capacitors in the circuit, one inside on the dizzy base near the black driver module, and another in the tach filter.....both of which can fail, and cause who knows what problems.....
I have tried running the meter leads to both sides of the filter on the distributor tach wire and on the distributor ground. If either of the capacitor/filters have failed there would either be an open circuit or a direct ground, in either case the oem tach would not work at all. My tach does work but is reading high. The meter is Actron Digital Diagnostic Engine Analyzer CP7676, so far I haven't found anyone else having a similar problem. As I said before, it does work well on my MOPAR with electronic ignition.
I have not and that seems to be an easy enough try. I also have a local source for a new tach filter. I may take the old beast for a ride tomorrow and pick up a new filter.
Thanks for the advise, Jerry
Finally got back to the Vette today and the RPM problems with my meter. I followed a suggestion from a member of the MOPAR forum and constructed a Faraday shield to filter out the unwanted electrical pulses from the distributor. I constructed a Faraday shield from a pair of 2 1/2 ft lengths of 4 conductor telephone wire and grounded the shield wires to the engine. It worked beautifully and I was able to set my Idle with a meter that read correctly. Thank you 67 Dart for helping me out with a GM problem. Thanks to everyone on this forum for their suggestions and for all the help on other problems I have had.
Jerry
Glad it worked out for you. Your premise that a failed tach filter would either show an open circuit or a grounded circuit was faulty. The most common result would be that the filter just would not do anything...which would leave the distributor signal "dirty", i.e. excessive pulses for what rpm the ignition should be producing. Installing a working tach filter might have fixed your problem as well. But, you have a solution and you don't really need a tach filter for your upgraded tach.
Glad it worked out for you. Your premise that a failed tach filter would either show an open circuit or a grounded circuit was faulty. The most common result would be that the filter just would not do anything...which would leave the distributor signal "dirty", i.e. excessive pulses for what rpm the ignition should be producing. Installing a working tach filter might have fixed your problem as well. But, you have a solution and you don't really need a tach filter for your upgraded tach.
I did not upgrade my tach, you must have misread my original post. My problem was with a piece of diagnostic equipment. My intent was to see if my dash tach was reading faulty and by how much. Now that I have a reliable method to read RPM I can now try to remedy the problem with my dash unit. Also I will stand by my statement that a capacitor/choke/filter will either work properly, short to ground or create an open circuit.
Thanks for your post, Jerry