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I think it has more to do with how well the car has been maintained rather than a specific year or type.
But to add early 68s, but most likely all those bugs have been shaken out by now anyway, and then once computerization came into the picture, I think it complicated matters added components that may fail and are complicated to repair. Ike
Been looking for another C3, what is your view on a year or model that is better than average with reliability auto or stick, thanks.
Since you apparently already have experience with C3 Vettes, I won't remind you that 40-50 year old cars do not have reliability at the top of the list. When I went looking three years ago, I concentrated on what I did not want. No AC, no PS, no PB, no PW, nothing that would go bad, just the basic car. I would suggest a small block with 4 speed between 1969 and 1971. 1972 models started dropping off in HP and the 1968 had some first year change quirks. I prefer a convert, but not sure that has anything to do with reliability. Others will probably also make suggestions, but the level of maintenance that the car has had will probably be more important than most other things. Good luck on your search.
I think it has more to do with how well the car has been maintained rather than a specific year or type.
But to add early 68s, but most likely all those bugs have been shaken out by now anyway, and then once computerization came into the picture, I think it complicated matters added components that may fail and are complicated to repair. Ike
Condition for sure, thanks
Originally Posted by ronarndt
Since you apparently already have experience with C3 Vettes, I won't remind you that 40-50 year old cars do not have reliability at the top of the list. When I went looking three years ago, I concentrated on what I did not want. No AC, no PS, no PB, no PW, nothing that would go bad, just the basic car. I would suggest a small block with 4 speed between 1969 and 1971. 1972 models started dropping off in HP and the 1968 had some first year change quirks. I prefer a convert, but not sure that has anything to do with reliability. Others will probably also make suggestions, but the level of maintenance that the car has had will probably be more important than most other things. Good luck on your search.
That certainly makes sense, less parts less trouble...thanks
Now that I think about it my C3 was in the shop often but just miss the fun drive.
A modern car may be more reliable, but immensely more complicated. Once you go through an old carbureted car like a C3 , rebuild or replace all the major components, there's not much to go wrong, and if there was a problem, it should be easy to diagnose and repair. However, you just won't have the comfort, or safety features of a modern car (ie. crumple zones, airbags, anti-lock brakes, climate control, etc.)
A modern car may be more reliable, but immensely more complicated. Once you go through an old carbureted car like a C3 , rebuild or replace all the major components, there's not much to go wrong, and if there was a problem, it should be easy to diagnose and repair. However, you just won't have the comfort, or safety features of a modern car (ie. crumple zones, airbags, anti-lock brakes, climate control, etc.)
Well said, thanks, will try to get a well serviced car with records .
I recall my 74 carb, the gas inlet line thread was loose, miracle had no fire . Bought a rebuilt carb.
The condition of the car is the big determining factor. Look for one that has already been restored and sorted out, and is being driven and well maintained right now.
I specifically bought a 1979 C3 to be a fair-weather daily driver. The PO had spent a ton of money keeping the car on the road in the past few years (more than we paid for the car!). My wife wanted an automatic, so that's what she got, but I'd think a manual would be more reliable (certainly more fun!).
4 major and one minor system failed and needed replacement, limiting use of the car. 3 of these systems are optional (AC, power steering, power door locks), so perhaps a simpler, earlier car is your best bet for reliability. I also replaced all four brake calipers and the distributor, but that could happen to any C3.
best thing to do is research the rust zones on these cars, and ANY car you look at, the first thing if your serious, is to get the car on a big lift and get a light and start looking, if it's covered in rust, walk. beyond that there isn't a ton besides the motor and tranny blowing up, that costs all that much to replace on these cars
it's like everyone has said, once you've replaced the parts, that's it... these things were made to go, not wear out in 10 years like modern cars... GM and Ford don't want you driving a repairable car now, they want you to buy a new one
id rather buy a cheaper one, that is in fair shape and fix it up myself and you'll cut the cost of the mechanic out of it, which is usually your parts cost times 1.5 IF no body / paint work is involved
Last edited by naramlee; Sep 10, 2018 at 01:24 AM.
I think it has more to do with how well the car has been maintained rather than a specific year or type.
But to add early 68s, but most likely all those bugs have been shaken out by now anyway, and then once computerization came into the picture, I think it complicated matters added components that may fail and are complicated to repair. Ike