When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm rebuilding the original engine in my 72. My machinist says the block needs decked and since its not the first rebuild of the engine he believes the block numbers will be machined off. The engine is numbers matching and I would like to keep them. Can I have the numbers re-stamped. Is there a way I can have it verified? Would pictures help? Any help is appreciated.
Mike.
I'm rebuilding the original engine in my 72. My machinist says the block needs decked and since its not the first rebuild of the engine he believes the block numbers will be machined off. The engine is numbers matching and I would like to keep them. Can I have the numbers re-stamped. Is there a way I can have it verified? Would pictures help? Any help is appreciated.
Mike.
Im a modder so not my area of concern but ive read on here that a "good" machinist can do a block without hurting the born with stamp, if thats true then a person into numbers would have to go that way.
A restamp is just that, seems ( to me ) it doesnt matter at that point what block the restamp is on, its not the factory stamp.
Is your model rare?
Besides the wheels has anything else been replaced or modified?
Are you swapping heads, intake, carb, etc from original?
Will it matter to the next buyer?
In ten years will anyone even want the original motor or will the hot ticket be to ditch the original and replace it with something newer and better than an LS motor?
If it's important to you, buy another block save all the original parts and enjoy your new non original motor.
Im a modder so not my area of concern but ive read on here that a "good" machinist can do a block without hurting the born with stamp, if thats true then a person into numbers would have to go that way.
A restamp is just that, seems ( to me ) it doesnt matter at that point what block the restamp is on, its not the factory stamp.
I agree with The Bats. I went to great lengths and expense to keep my numbers matching small block Chevelle completely original. Wasn’t worth the effort or expense. I can appreciate it’s the original mill, and it was important to me at the time, but if I had it to do over I would do things differently. This engine is similar to yours, as I am on the second engine build and at 000.40 over. One more build and the block is done. At 000.60 bore the walls of the block become thin and weak. Wishing I would have pulled the motor and stored it. Then got myself a nice Summit block to build some power. Live and learn. Good luck with your build Mike, regardless of your decision.
The engine, trans and frame are all numbers matching and I would like to keep it that way. However, I am replacing the iron heads (keeping the originals) with aluminum, the intake (with aluminum) and points distributor with an HEI. The intake that came with the car when I bought it is not original and there are no numbers on the dizzy which makes me believe it also is not original. I am not having the car judged, just a cruiser, and I don't plan on selling. It will be handed down to my sons along with my 1979 Z28 and they can do whatever they want with them. So if its not a major ordeal to have them re-stamped then I'm in, but its a hassle then I guess I'll just let it go. Just looking for some input from all your experience.
The engine, trans and frame are all numbers matching and I would like to keep it that way. However, I am replacing the iron heads (keeping the originals) with aluminum, the intake (with aluminum) and points distributor with an HEI. The intake that came with the car when I bought it is not original and there are no numbers on the dizzy which makes me believe it also is not original. I am not having the car judged, just a cruiser, and I don't plan on selling. It will be handed down to my sons along with my 1979 Z28 and they can do whatever they want with them. So if its not a major ordeal to have them re-stamped then I'm in, but its a hassle then I guess I'll just let it go. Just looking for some input from all your experience.
You are replacing the heads? Dont worry about matching numbers at this point. By the time that car gets sold again there will be chips in the paint, tears in the seats and leaks in the t-tops. Those heads will be long forgotten in a corner. All anyone will care about is that its a nice running, solid car. SOOOOOOO many guys on this forum keep all their old parts......you know where they go? They get sold off in milk crates with the rest of the car.
PS- Im not shi++on your idea, Im just telling you to invest your time and money into making this a fun car to drive. In 10 years, nobody will care that your moderately modded, overbored, cammed, high flow heads and header equipped engine has a number on it that matches the VIN plate.
Bottom line up front- unless its ALL ORIGINAL and TOGETHER like it came from the factory, dont bother. Invest your time and money on 1) paint 2) performance parts, as they will yield a FAR better return than a 'semi' original car.
With scott
Yes it can be restamped...there are machinists that can deck it and keep the #s usually a CNC program
If it needs to be decked then just do it. If you put the block away I doubt it will make its way inside the car again.
Ive seen guys get too carried away and actually reuse the old pistons in a worn out bore cause "well its original", "value" etc. Good gawd.
Gimme a good proper rebuild anyday over that. I kept my 73 all # match didnt enjoy ownership..it meant spit when I sold it.
Buyer said "I could care less" and saw his point. 2 mos later he had a new motor, paint etc and sold it for much more a year later.
Do not deck the block. That operation is not required unless the engine blew a head gasket and eroded the surface. Leave it alone - Regardless of what the shop tells you, the guy running the mill will remove the numbers. Happens all the time.
Find another machinist, better yet don't deck the block because I bet it's not required they just want to make money off you. A good machine shop can deck the block and not machine the number pad.
First, take detailed pix of the pad. If the machine shop, for whatever reason decks them, I believe re-stamping is OK according to NCRS (if you give a shi_) rules as long as you are not trying to counterfeit the build to something other what originally came in the car. If you go through the trouble of re-stamping, make sure you go with a quality outfit. Nothing jumps out at you as like a poorly attempted re-stamp.
If the measurements the machinist takes says it needs decked then do it. You want a head that seals or make guys on the internet happy?
Deck heights on brand new blocks can be off, a 50 yr old one thats been rebuilt before? Do it.
If the measurements the machinist takes says it needs decked then do it. You want a head that seals or make guys on the internet happy?
Deck heights on brand new blocks can be off, a 50 yr old one thats been rebuilt before? Do it.
There are many reasons to deck a block, but very few of them are necessary.
Why would you "NOT" deck the block in a rebuild?
It's part of doing a quality job of the machining of the block.
That's like not line boring or balancing.
If your machinist has been in business for a long time, has a good reputation, knows what he is doing and he recommends decking the block then do it.
I would do it anyway just to make sure all mating surfaces are true and square.
Ask the machinist to save the numbers and take photos before and after the decking.
If the numbers are wiped from the block ask that they are re-stamped and photograph them again to document.
My 73 BB is a numbers matching car.
The only thing that will be original on the motor will be the block and I'm sure the numbers will be wiped from the pad.
If I could find a nice 4 bolt block I might pick it up just to start my rebuild before I pull the body off the chassis.
If I do I'll sell the motor and TH-400 as a running unit because the auto is going to be replaced by a TKO-600 5 speed anyway.
LET ME REPEAT MYSELF .... DO NOT DE-VALUE YOUR CAR BY LETTING THEM MILL THE NUMBERS OFF THE BLOCK .... find a new machinists that has the knowledge to keep them on and mill the block accordingly . I’m not a total persuist but when it comes to taking a 1/3 of the value out of the car buy milling the numbers off the block and then having to prove that they were there once won’t sell it for me ....
It doesn’t matter if the car is rare. Changing the heads, a simple bolt on change, is a terrible, terrible excuse to permanently harm the value of your car. A head change has nothing to do with anything. It doesn’t matter whether you care about “matching numbers” or not. You will, unequivocally, hurt the value of your car by decking the numbers.
You are also asking the wrong question. Yes you can find someone who can re-stamp the pad after it’s been ruined, but you are completely forgetting about the fact that the original broach marks will have been lost and anyone that’s ever looked at the pad will now reject the new restamp in an instant. I am going to guess you had not planned for finding an artisan who can replicate the correct pad surface before you even get to the restamp point. And don’t kid yourself into thinking you can “explain” that it looks funny because it was decked and restamped, but honest, it’s the right numbers.
Do not make this mistake. Too many people are way too ready to tell you numbers matching doesn’t matter. It’s not true.
Find another machinist. I know people with rebuilt engines that have found a machinist that would not ruin the value of their cars.
I should add this... if you are stuck between a choice of multiple machinists telling you that they can’t fix your engine properly and losing your original numbers forever, don’t do either.
Your dollars in that scenario will be more wisely spent on a brand new crate engine that you can modify to your hearts delight, with a full warranty, and you can run it out until it doesn’t run any more with no concerns. Put the original block aside for the eventual sale.
Ive done this in the past and it’s worked out beautifully. Win/win.