Is there a good step by step website that shows in what order everything in assembled? (probably a long shot.)
I have a pretty good idea, stripped the doors about a year ago, and remember certain things need to come out/in a certain order.
just dont want to have to do things more than once. Ill be studying the assembly manual for reference.

Like I need to install lock mechs, rod lengths handles strip trim. mirror nuts. window regulator, cable routing, glass etc

 

I would try you-tube,lots of good stuff on there.

 

A quick 'Cliff notes' version on how I would do it. DO as you see fit.

Seeing how I would already have the roller on the door glass installed for the front vertical window track....and any issues with the window regulator taken care of.

Not knowing if the door is off the car and siting on a table or not.

I would make sure the wiring harnesses are in the rubber seal that is attached to the hinge post. While i begin to slide the door on the hinges. I stop and then .I put the wiring harness into the door and when I get the door bolted up. I make sure the rubber seal is caged to the door as designed. I do not worry about the harness and may get it pulled back and straighten and deal with it later.

I then install the outside mirror. If it is a manual remote sport mirror. I route the cable through the two holes in the upper hinge bolt access areas designed. IF it is an electric sport mirror. I correctly cage the wiring harness in the clip that is attached to the impact structure and will route the wire as like the manual remote sport mirror so the door glass does not conflict with it as it can if you do not correctly route the wire.

I make sure the upper stop is out from the front track. I install it and while doing so any wiring for the power windows and other stuff is routed in the bottom portion of the track so it can not move around. I bolt the track in place but leave the bolts loose due to the top bolts will come back out so the vertical track can be angled towards the back of the door so...when installing the door glass.... the front roller on the door glass can slide into it and then the vertical track is stood up so the door glass is installed to it correctly.

I install the door lock cylinder and any alarm system switches if needed and also the clip that holds the lock cylinder to the door. Connecting any and all wiring as needed.

Then I install the outside door handle with the rod already attached to it and the clip on that rod CORRECTLY installed due to the special clip is installed on the rod to the door handle can go on two different ways...BUT only ONE way is correct. You will know you have this clip correctly installed IF you install it ONTO the rod FIRST then slide the rod into the hole in the lever of the handle . This clip is NOT designed to keep the rod from falling out of the door handle. It is designed to keep the rod from working itself THROUGH the hole in the lever of the handle and causing your door handle to lock up and not work. SO..if your rod falls off with the clip on it ...You have it CORRECTLY installed.

Then I install the latch mechanism and get the outside handle adjusted to is works correctly. I then install the inner door release handle an rods and get them working. If the car has power door locks..I install the actuator and linkage and either bolt the lock actuator to the door or pop rivet it back on like GM did. I also connect any wiring to this actuator. I then install the water diverting shield to protect the latch mechanism.

I install the rear vertical window track.

The I install the window regulator...then the horizontal track that joins the rollers in the regulator to the rear vertical window tracks roller. I generally install it when the window regulator is at half mast.

I then attach the short window track that allows the tilting adjustment of the door glass

The I remove the top two outer bolts for the vertical track ( leaving the bottom one installed but loose) and tilt it to the back of the door so when I slide the roller on the door glass into its area I can get the roller wheel on the door glass to slide into the track...and when I do...I then finish getting the door glass into the door then slide the door glass forward...which will push the front vertical track back into position so I can put a bolt in it to hold it from falling back down. WHILE I am still holding the door glass and installing this bolt in the front vertical track. I slowly lower to door glass and get the horizontal track I previously installed to line up with the studs on the door glass and get them caged so I can put the nuts on it. By having the regulator at half mast...it will make it easier for you to get the door glass to be installed versus if the horizontal track is way up at the top.

Install the access plates and any other arm rest screw retainer plates as needed.

DUB

 

Dub, on behalf of all of us who have a door assembly on our TO DO list, thank you.

 

thanks. good stuff dub. that helps a lot
. I am gonna take it slow. I painted the car with the panels off. It seemed easier to hang the doors without installing everything and making them heavier.
I just aligned them(hopefully new weight doesnt tweak hinge adjustment too much) and put the wiring and boot on.
im gonna spend my sweet time getting the lock and latch working super good. my worst fear is it gets stuck.

 

Hopefully what I wrote was written in a manner that makes sense to all who read it. I try to cover all the 'bases' and not leave anything out.

YES...you should be able to get the wires in your door but if your are fully loaded 1982 with power mirrors, windows, door locks and alarm wiring.... it can be a challenge

For what it is worth...I DID JUST THAT. I left out how when I get the door on the car when it is BARE I have it up a little back by the door handle.......YES...you can get the door PERFECTLY SET when it is bare and when you get it built...do not be surprised if it may drop a little bit...thus needing to be picked up a little to it is perfect again.

********IMPORTANT********

I was not going to type this due to I figure that most people check it an can figure this out.

When adjusting the rod for your outside door handle. I remove the clip on the latch mechanism for speed in me getting it adjusted so I do not have to uncage the clevis all the time.

Now some latch mechanisms are so that when you manually latch it ( as if it were like it would be with the door shut) an use the handle to release it.... it unlatches all by itself. SOMETIMES it may need you to help it by using a screwdriver and put it in where your striker bolt would be and pull back on it to make it release. NOW...this action of you using a screwdriver to make the latch release is NOT a bad thing because your door will open due to the tension your door w/strips are putting on the door so IT WILL OPEN. And you do not need to freak out an spend money on a new one....unless you want to because you are one of those OCD people. Which is not bad thing...because I have some OCD in me when working on certain areas of a Corvette.

It goes without saying but make sure your latch mechanism is in the UNL:OCKED state.

NOW..when you put the adjustable clevis in the CORRECT outer hole in the flat lever of your latch mechanism and not the INNER HOLE. The OUTER HOLE is obviously the hole in the lever that is closest to the end of it. Latch your mechanism and then try to use you door handle You might need to use along screwdriver to help hold the adjustable clevis in that lever so it does not fall out. IF your mechanism releases....NOW lock the latch mechanism and then try to see if you can UNLOCK IT. IF you can and you are happy with the angle of the outside flapper of your chrome door handle and where it is when the door releases.. Put the clip on the lever and attach the clevis and TEST IT AGAIN! If all is good... you are done.

IF you are adjusting the clevis and finally get it to work where you want it I NEVER adjust the flapper so it is having to be pressed all the way down to vertical to get the door open ..I go for a little bit more than past half way...and what feels comfortable. ALWAYS test it by locking the mechanism and MAKING SURE you can unlock it. IF you feel any binding in how the lock lever feels when you go to lock it and unlock it.. THAT is not a good sign and you can potentially run into causing your latch mechanism to go it a LOCK DOWN state....where you cannot NOR will not be able to unlock the door unless you adjust THIS ROD. But as you know you can still get the door open by using the by pass GM provided.

So...for those who care to know....IF you are wanting to understand how the latch mechanism can run into a lock down state and HOW you can by improperly adjust the rod so you may be able to LOCK your door but NOT unlock it ...here is as simple test for you to see what I am referring to.

Take the LOCK-UNLOCK lever on your latch mechanism an move it up and down with NO rods attached to the latch mechanism. You will feel how smoothly it glides up and down with no feeling of a detent or anything. And also notice its RANGE OF MOTION!. NOW ..by knowing and testing that you have the latch mechanism UNLOCKED ( which I am sure you have figured out by simply pressing down with screwdriver on the long flat metal lever your outside door handle rod attaches to...or the other lever for your inside rod gets attached to am move it)....this is critical here ...it MUST be unlocked.

Knowing it is unlock...take the same screwdriver and press down on the long flat lever that your outside door handle rod attaches to and then use the lever to lock the door and WHILE HOLDING the lever down for your outside handle. Try to unlock the mechanism. If it works..now still making sure that the mechanism is UNLOCKED... apply MORE pressure of the lever for the outside door handle and try to lock it again..Eventually you will find a spot when pressing down on the lever for your outside door handle that when you go to LOCK the mechanism you will feel a bind or detent. AND IF you do get it to LOCK...while still holding that lever for the outside door handle in that SAME POSITION...you WILL NOT be able to unlock the door mechanism fully. And the ONLY way for it to be able to UNLOCK the mechanism is for you to release the pressure you have applied on the lever for the outside door handle.

KNOWING how far you can actually adjust the clevis on your door handle rod and now knowing what to feel for...will allow you to adjust your door handle rod perfectly. Simply getting the outside handle to work is ONLY HALF of the job...unless you never plan on locking your car.

BUT...do not be surprised that on some aged latch mechanisms....the worn metal you may see that if you inspect it and NOW know how it works and what to look for. This worn metal now throws off the angles of the latch mechanism an may NOW cause your plus/minus variable of how you can adjust the clevis to lessen and make it so your adjustment area is quite small or you begin to run out of threads and now needing to be precisely adjusted due to this age and wear. Do not ask me how I know this to be true.

DUB

 

thanks dub I finally got around to doing my pass door. your writeup was very helpful. I think i got the lock and outer handle like you said. the handle clicks open about half way, not all the way down. I was studying how the mech works clicking everything and seeing the play in the rods and how far they move. I used all the same rods and got new clips

before I stripped the car i had trouble with the doors locking up. I think the mech was sticky and outer handle rods were adjusted wrong, and wasnt returning to unlock. I cleaned all the old crap off and super lubed all over.
The nut on the outer handle in the very top corner was a pain to get on.
_____________

I also used gaskets from corvette america for edge of lock an handle. Were these on factory(it didnt have any when i dissasembled)? they look chessy and klinda bulging out.

 

 

 

I would use the Assembly manual...very thorough. I KNOW that you have to open a book and go through a few different pages...but this of course is HOW the factory did it.

Take heart....took me 50 hours per door on the 69 to completely rebuild the doors! (And I'm FAST!)

Merry merry.

Unkahal

 

50 hours on one door...and the same time on the other door???? MAN I hate it for you due to not beign able to do it any faster on the second door when you just did the one door and learned about it. You must be including the 40 hour work week at your day job included in that time....or that was a typo.

I can say I kind of figured out that there is about 60 fasteners and 9 clips needed to attach the door to the hinges and build them up if it is a non power window. car....not including the 4 screws for the door panel and two screws for the handle pull.

I am glad that I know I do not take that long to build up a bare door to completion....and have it right..

If it did take you 50 hours per door I guess you spent your time as you saw fit but I can say that is NOT normal.

DUB