I have a 72 with a ZZ502 crate motor. I am going to be installing a Sniper after Christmas. I just need some input on what I need to get. I am buying Sniper kit with out the pump and lines as I will also be buying the tank and internal pump. I plan on getting -6 stainless braided line for the fuel line along with the AN fittings for it. I already have a 3/8 aluminum line for the return line. I also plan on using AN fittings on that. I am going to use hardline to AN adapters, the ones with the ferrules in them like compression fittings. Am i good so far. I am going to keep the HEI. And maybe run my fans from the Snipers kit. Any input or help will be appreciated.

 

I went at it the same way like you are planning. The only thing I would advice is to bench test your pump before installing tank. I had a defective pump with zero pressure from the get go and had to pull out tank to replace pump! Thankfully Tanks Inc. Techs made it right immediately over the phone and shipped another one the very same day. Once I received it I bench tested it and Voila"!!... I see that you're using a return line which means you will be using regulator on unit. I went with a filter/Reg at the back by the tank and so far it's been working flawless . Im also running the Big cap HEI and my engine is a GM Performance ZZ5. hope that helps!! keep us updated....Cruz

 

Braided stainless line the length of the car? First off, the line is not stainless, just the braided cover. I would think a rigid line that can't hang down would be a better way to go. Especially being full of fuel under pressure the whole way.

 

i have done 3 of these installs so far... it is a great system, but has its quirks ! the first install i did was a cleanup for someone that did not know how too follow the instruction sheet.. that was a pontiac 67 firebird with a stock 326 in it.. the big thing i run into there was interference with the HEI dist. pontiacs are like chevys, there dist is in the rear of the block. right were the IAC wires exit the sniper unit...any close or contact with these wires near the dist plug wire, and you have radio noise! and it sends the IAC into a crazy up down mode....fast idle no idle up and down and then stalling with hard starts.....with this, i called holley and they walked me threw the record down load too the card in the hand held. HOLLEY TECH IS AWESOME!!! i did this, and sent it out too the tech in a email.. in mins they called and said i had radio noise interfering with the IAC.. and they then told me to route all wires away from the unit, and do a possible upgrade in the dist and wires for more clearence....i managed too handle that issue with only a better set of wires and some routing..and it runs like a top now!
the second one i did was on a 71 camaro with a 383 i built for a local doctor..planing ahead i got a plug and play MSD dist with the smaller cap and there wires..this is something for you too think about.. but the best set up is HOLLEY'S sync dist. if i was too do this on my own car i would deffinetly use that.. it gives you and the computer complete control over the motor. the MSD gave me no issues with radio noise!! but this motor was a 4 spd street roller cam, with a lumpy idle.. the unit would not idle were the motor needed to be.. again i called HOLLEY! they walked me threw a internal program in the hand held that changes the idle enrichment.. PERFECT!
it has been a great learning curve and fun too play with! i will be using one of these on my own car..
oh! and the 3rd was a ford motor with no issues! {cuz the dist is up front}
on the first 2 GM cars i did, i bought new factory fuel lines and used one of the 3/8s lines as a return right off the back of the unit. the 71 i bought the tank with pump.. very clean set up... you will love how the system works, the hand held controller is awesome..good luck with it...troy

 

Yes I know the line isn't stainless, I have only been working on cars for 45 years. And I have had cars with the hose running the full length without any issue.Do you also know that the Sniper master kit comes with a rubber fuel line that would run the full length of the car. Why do you think it would hang down. I usually clamp it every 6 inches .I guarantee you there are a bunch of guys on here that have it the full length. The line is also made to handle pressure. I contacted Holley and they didn't seem to think there was a problem.

 

Is there a specific fuel filter I should use.

 

i agree with you 540! we ran #12 braided back too front and a return on our race cars, with no issues! that was too feed 2000 plus HP.. it does get old and stiff after while and needs to be replaced. but it is the best way too go..enjoy!

 

Couple of things I learned doing the EFI on my 496 big block.

1) Add a fuel pressure gauge sensor at the engine. Helps with troubleshooting.
2) Fuel heating can be an issue with the big blocks. I originally used a return line setup using -6 AN feed and the stock line as a return. Was getting fuel pressure drop and serious vapor lock with less than 1/2 tank. Could feel the hot fuel in the tank.

On the advice of my tuner, I plumbed the car with a -8 feed line returnless setup. The regulator is back by the tank and return is short right into tank. Just like GM does with the LS motors.

Here is a link to the hose I used:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3490

Very flexible. Teflon lined so no gas smell. And reasonably priced. You have to use their hose ends but they work well and are reusable.I went with the Aramid covering since I had an issue with the braided line. The braided line touched an electrically hot wire and shorted to the frame via the braid. This burned a hole in the line and I had gas pouring out under the car. So, aramid covering for me.

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

I like your style!! Sounds like a nice tidy setup. This is exactly the way I would like to do mine ...when I get to it!!

But then, there's the beautiful plumbing like Cruz has.....

 

Here are some pics of my setup. It is -8 feed line from an Aeromotive in-tank pump using an Aeromotive regulator and filter back by the tank. Comes up under the heat shield in front of the passenger foot well where there is a Y-block. Two feed lines (actually those are still the Goodridge braided steel) to the back of each rail. Then a crossover at the front of the rails for pressure fluctuations. You can see the heat shielding added to the rail feeds and crossover if you look carefully. The sensor for the fuel pressure gauge is at the front of the passenger side rail.

The intent was to make it look like something Chevrolet would have done if they could have done a 3x2 port injected EFI 496 big block backed by a T-56 6 speed in 1975.