Not sure how this got on this thread, was trying to reply to a guy that was asking about adding wide fenders and whether to blend or butt them. Thanks though, sorry for the confusion.
Yep, you nailed it, didnt consider the fading. Guess that would depend on if garaged and how much time it spent out.

 

It's funny the comments on using power tools. When I was painting my C10 last winter at a body shop I did all the sanding by hand. The body shop owner who was supervising me said I didn't have the "skills" to run power tools. He said they would just get me in trouble.

 

Not knowing what was needing to be done or any of that....
it is a crying shame he did not believe enough in your ability to comprehend instructions. And at least allow you to use it. Just because a power tool has a trigger that allows it to spin up to maximum RPM speed.....does NOT mean that it has to be run at that speed all the time to make that tool effective and a time saver. WE ALL never knew how to use power tools until we did use it. If a person is WATCHING what they are doing and PAYING ATTENTION...they can help greatly. Obviously he did not have the confidence in his ability to instruct a person on how to use it or felt it was not needed.

But to also comes to his defense......there are jobs that do not require the use of a power tool and it is actually faster to do it by hand and NO FEAR of creating more problems.

DUB

 

I should of said I've never done any body work prior to this project. I made the body shop guy aware of this. He was a friend of a friend of a friend that likes projects but has to run a money making collision shop. Can't be looking over my shoulder every second. I think one of the reasons he didn't let me use power tools was to see if I was really up to task of doing all the work required. And yes the sanding is very good for the upper shoulder muscles. I'm recently retired so I did have the time. We had more than a few conversations about body work. Why he did this or that on cars he had in the shop. I learned a ton in 6 months. He said that power tools tend to remove too much material too fast so then you have to reapply.
Anyone who has sanded all day know how good a cold one tastes at the end of the day.

 

 

For what it is worth again:

Using a orbital sander to take down the primer to the body is DO-ABLE due to I can do it without FEAR of damaging anything because I know how to use the sander correctly. AND...I also know I am going to prime it so I am not so concerned about every little thing due to the type of primer I am using will cover a vast majority of minor issues.

I am assuming you are removing the primer. So the choice of body filler to repair things may change depending on if the part is fiberglass or a flexible rubber part.

I know I use Vette Panel Adhesive ( Evercoat part number 100870 quart or 100880 gallon) for all filling on a car like yours where the repair is NOT a structural repair requiring bonding. Even though they sell some of the soft catalyzed glazing putties...I do not use them due to they are soft and I prefer to stick with the VPA for all fill work. Even if it is filling in pinholes.

Call Evercoat if you go to buy the VPA so you can read the date code to make sure you are getting good stuff that is not out of date. It is not that hard to use if you know how to use it but it is different so if you get it...let me know so I ( or others who know about it) can aid you in how to use it so it does not frustrate you.

DUB

 

My fault for thinking about what the OP had originally asked. I showed the pics to the body shop guy I used and he said without knowing what primer is used he would not hesitate to sand it all off and start over. He said a DA sander used carefully as DUB said would work well. After that body work, spray poly filler and then 2-3 rounds with high build primer.
Good luck with your project.