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I purchased a new console lock for my 73 and would like to rekey it use the existing door lock key. I took it to a local locksmith and he told me it could not be rekeyed. Not sure if that's true or he just didn't want to mess with it. I've attached photos of the new lock.
I purchased a new console lock for my 73 and would like to rekey it use the existing door lock key. I took it to a local locksmith and he told me it could not be rekeyed. Not sure if that's true or he just didn't want to mess with it. I've attached photos of the new lock.
That's because the spare tire carrier and the center storage box behind the seats uses the round key.
The ignition and doors is the square key.
Two different style blanks.
That's because the spare tire carrier and the center storage box behind the seats uses the round key.
The ignition and doors is the square key.
Two different style blanks.
OK by me if it's rekeyed to the ignition key as right now neither of my keys works. Is it possible to rekey this lock to work with the ignition key.
OK by me if it's rekeyed to the ignition key as right now neither of my keys works. Is it possible to rekey this lock to work with the ignition key.
Square key and round key have different profiles and are not compatible. You'll need a 1973 round key profile to fit the center storage lock.
Have you checked your spare tire carrier lock?
For 1973 you should have
'E' Key Blank - Primary Key - Also referred to as a B44 - this is for the ignition & doors
'H' Key Blank - Secondary Key - Also referred to as a B45 - this if for the storage compartment & tire carrier
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Dec 22, 2018 at 08:25 PM.
Actually, if you remove the key cylinder from the housing you'll see 5 wafers that coincide with the shape of the key so that when the key contacts them they retract into the shaft so the shaft can spin inside the cylinder.
The first one the key goes through has a tab that fits into the groove down the side of key. If you remove that wafer and then file the rest so that with the key inserted none of the wafers are protruding, then the cylinder will turn with your ignition key. You may also find that once you can insert your ignition key that some of the wafers protrude a significant amount. You can just remove them. As long as you leave one wafer in it will still function as a lock.
A real locksmith would just change out the wafers.
Last edited by BarryB72; Dec 22, 2018 at 09:06 PM.
Remove the cylinder by using a paper clip to depress the wafer on the left using the access hole in your 3rd picture and pull. Once that wafers clears the shaft you can insert the key and remove the shaft.
That first wafer would be the wafer you have to remove to open up the entry way.
Last edited by BarryB72; Dec 22, 2018 at 09:19 PM.
Remove the cylinder by using a paper clip to depress the wafer on the left using the access hole in your 3rd picture and pull. Once that wafers clears the shaft you can insert the key and remove the shaft.
That first wafer would be the wafer you have to remove to open up the entry way.
The first wafer also serves as the cylinder retainer. He could bypass the retainer keyway restriction by simply filing off the keyway restriction and reinserting the wafer to function as a retainer only.
OR
Stamped on the cylinder should be the original 4 character key code which he could take to any locksmith and have a key cut.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Dec 23, 2018 at 08:51 AM.
Right about the first wafer being needed! Forgot I removed one but I had an unrestricted wafer that I put in its place. Been a few years since I had my locks apart.
Console Lock
