Distributor Removal
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 47
Likes: 6
Distributor Removal
(73 vette) Just when I think I have this thing licked it jumps up and bites me... I am trying to remove the distributor so I can remove the intake, and it is refusing to budge, no matter how hard I twist and pull it will not move and yes everything else has been removed and or loosened so it just should pull out.. Its a Mallory Distributor if that helps. Open for suggestions...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Tough place to get a pry bar in there too. A short handle beveled edge chisel inserted on the back side between intake and the dizzy hold down portion may work. No hammering, just pry slowly without tearing things up. Work the body of the dizzy back & forth. I doubt its the pump holding on or the cam. I think its a extra tight intake hole. A shot of PB Blaster around the base may help too.
And I assume the crank is set at TDC #1 when its ready to go back in?
And I assume the crank is set at TDC #1 when its ready to go back in?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 21, 2019 at 04:05 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
Likes: 3,399
From: SW Florida.
Try to turn it side to side. Worst case use a hammer on the vacuum can. It can be replaced after beating the crap out of it. I assume you got the clamp off? A few aftermarket intakes have places for another clamp on the other side. Can you get vice grips on the skinny part of the body?
Last edited by derekderek; Jan 21, 2019 at 04:59 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
I have never heard of this. I bet someone smeared permatex all over the housing. Try heating and twisting the dizzy housing, and toss that POS in the trash. The newer Mallory points and caps are garbage.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,147
Likes: 1,667
From: Long Island
Just use 2 people to pull the manifold to keep it level.I had an issue on my truck = 38 yrears old and 400k miles. Never had to adjust the timing - HELI, always was good. The oil under the locking ring was like tar. Used Freeze Off and it loosened after a few hours.
I went from a 2 barrel to a 4. When the carb failed...
Last edited by BLUE1972; Jan 21, 2019 at 05:22 PM.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 47
Likes: 6
Yeah I was thinking of pulling the intake as well.. also no vacuum can.. only one hold down clamp... have tried turning it side to side it refuses to turn..
Anyhow will tackle it in the morning, thanks guys for all the advice will keep you informed as to my progress...
Anyhow will tackle it in the morning, thanks guys for all the advice will keep you informed as to my progress...
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Remove the hold down clamp and soak the cr@p out of the intake bore/dizzy housing joint. I'm sure they must be corroded together. If the engine will turn over (starter or manually), set the engine at TDC (compression) on #1; etch an orientation mark on the intake and dizzy housing to keep that alignment; also mark the point on the distributor case where the rotor is pointing BEFORE you move the distributor. That's about as good as you can do, since the pieces are bonded. They WILL get moved as you attempt disassembly.
P.S. When you go back together with those pieces, you need to leave the points of contact of the hold down clamp on the dizzy housing, the intake AND the underside of the clamp BARE METAL. Most folks don't know that is the electrical ground path for the ignition circuit. If you block that 'path' with any paint, the engine runs LOUSY (or not at all).
P.S. When you go back together with those pieces, you need to leave the points of contact of the hold down clamp on the dizzy housing, the intake AND the underside of the clamp BARE METAL. Most folks don't know that is the electrical ground path for the ignition circuit. If you block that 'path' with any paint, the engine runs LOUSY (or not at all).
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jan 21, 2019 at 10:01 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 254
From: Catlett VA
See if you can get a plumbers wrench (the type to reach up and tighten fittings under a sink) on the shaft under the body of the distributor and turn it. I had this problem on an old 1972 truck, but the distributor on Fords is up front, so it was easier to get at.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 282
From: Bedford New York
Have you tried applying a little heat to the intake manifold at the base of the distributor? A little heat from a heat gun might just break the bond free and expand the bore enough to free the distributor shaft base. I prefer heat to mechanical force......I don’t like breaking things.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,809
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Remove the hold down clamp and soak the cr@p out of the intake bore/dizzy housing joint. I'm sure they must be corroded together. If the engine will turn over (starter or manually), set the engine at TDC (compression) on #1; etch an orientation mark on the intake and dizzy housing to keep that alignment; also mark the point on the distributor case where the rotor is pointing BEFORE you move the distributor. That's about as good as you can do, since the pieces are bonded. They WILL get moved as you attempt disassembly.
P.S. When you go back together with those pieces, you need to leave the points of contact of the hold down clamp on the dizzy housing, the intake AND the underside of the clamp BARE METAL. Most folks don't know that is the electrical ground path for the ignition circuit. If you block that 'path' with any paint, the engine runs LOUSY (or not at all).
P.S. When you go back together with those pieces, you need to leave the points of contact of the hold down clamp on the dizzy housing, the intake AND the underside of the clamp BARE METAL. Most folks don't know that is the electrical ground path for the ignition circuit. If you block that 'path' with any paint, the engine runs LOUSY (or not at all).
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 22, 2019 at 08:42 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 47
Likes: 6
Ok, I have bumped the engine and it still refuses to budge left or right up or down.... its a victor Jr intake and a Mallory distributor I am wondering how they even got it through the hole in the intake if its so tight I can't move it.... will try heat next....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 918
Likes: 198
From: TX
I soaked the base of mine with pb for a while then whacked the lump of iron above the collar using a 4" brass drift and a 2 lb hammer, tapping both to left and right, then more pb. Loosened right up after that. I'm sure it had not been turned since 1984.
Maybe try that before heating it up?
VERYSOON
Maybe try that before heating it up?
VERYSOON
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,692
Likes: 1,366
Friend of mine could not remove distributor on his 351W even with an engine hoist due to the way the cam gear and distributor gear had worn together. By pulling the intake you can determine if you have an issue at the distributor contact point or below that.
I agree with doing the intake - it's relatively easy and will avoid other damages that could occur as you keep trying to yank this thing out.
Last edited by carriljc; Jan 22, 2019 at 11:19 AM.