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Hi all,
I have the opportunity to pick up a Base 1968 numbers matching 4spd coupe with said 28,000 original miles. The original color was British Racing Green but was repainted in boyd red 20 years ago. The car appears to be in really great overall condition although I have not had it professionally inspected. I have heard mix thoughts on 1968 models, so good & some really bad. I would really appreciate any and all advice that can be offered. I can probably pick it up for $20K US.
Last edited by Cassietrist; Feb 5, 2019 at 08:52 AM.
Have the car professionally inspected by an experienced person who knows early C3's. Its a "One Year" car and those "One Year" parts ( door push buttons & button trim rings, dash, etc.) can get costly. Remember low mileage is not always a good thing. Spend some time online and do some research.
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Originally Posted by Tiger Joe
20k isnt really a deal for a base model with a non original color car IMO
Really? low miles, all original and the only difference is paint, which can be painted again to the original color. it's easily a $25000 to $27000 (convertible) car in my state by my appraiser 4 years ago. Mine was appraised at $27k, $24k with the original engine on a stand, not actually in the car.
To the OP, do your due diligence on rust, numbers, stamps etc... if you can get the VIN to determine the build date , you can figure out what 68 only parts should be on it. Small things changed in the year like shift boots, wiper override indicators, etc. Then 68 only vs 69 to 72 for most of the steering system ( column, box, front spindles, steering wheel,) dash, locks, frame braces, metal texture of the console, shift console flags vs hp rating, etc
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Feb 5, 2019 at 12:22 PM.
Really? low miles, all original and the only difference is paint, which can be painted again to the original color. it's easily a $25000 to $27000 (convertible) car in my state by my appraiser 4 years ago. Mine was appraised at $27k, $24k with the original engine on a stand, not actually in the car.
To the OP, do your due diligence on rust, numbers, stamps etc... if you can get the VIN to determine the build date , you can figure out what 68 only parts should be on it. Small things changed in the year like shift boots, wiper override indicators, etc. Then 68 only vs 69 to 72 for most of the steering system ( column, box, front spindles, steering wheel,) dash, locks, frame braces, metal texture of the console, shift console flags vs hp rating, etc
OP says its a coupe- so that 25-27k immediately drops. second, appraisals don't go hand in hand with what the cars are actually bringing in the market.
the draw of a low mileage car is in the "all original" but this car isnt. the paint isnt original. I have a 68 vert, I watch the market constantly, these cars are down. i just saw a really clean vert sell for 20k on ebay. saw what looked like a nice coupe only get bid up to 13k.
I also have a 68 base, paid $24K, numbers matching but also a non standard colour. I looked at a lot of cars and anything cheaper was nowhere near as nice. Ebay isn't always the best indicator of value.
OP says its a coupe- so that 25-27k immediately drops. second, appraisals don't go hand in hand with what the cars are actually bringing in the market.
the draw of a low mileage car is in the "all original" but this car isnt. the paint isnt original. I have a 68 vert, I watch the market constantly, these cars are down. i just saw a really clean vert sell for 20k on ebay. saw what looked like a nice coupe only get bid up to 13k.
20k for a coupe would have to be immaculate.
I was looking that car over. Wish the seller posted more photos, and especially some of the chassis and body mounts to get an idea of the condition of the bird cage and any rust issues. But it looked like a decent driver quality car for that money.