1968 Late Windshield Corner Trim
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 502
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From: Omaha Nebraska
1968 Late Windshield Corner Trim
I pulled these off my Aprilish 68. They're correct right? They don't have the notch on the inner part lake later parts. And it's not the two piece like the earlies.
What gives me pause is the "relief" that looks worked in on the bottom side near the latch hole. Has anyone seen that before or is it some weird hackery. The windshield has been replaced so who knows what's what.
Thoughts?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
WEAR. The adjustable stop bolts in the latch handles have worn these dimples ..DUE TO the plastic bushing that goes in the holes are not there....so the top can move and wear this area. Chances the latch adjustment bolts were swapped out for someones bad idea of fixing it ( or lack of fixing it).... instead of buying the correct bolts with the rubber caps on them.
Put a new set on and move on...unless you plan on using these.
DUB
Put a new set on and move on...unless you plan on using these.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 284
From: cary Il
the 68s latch locks are a bullet type head not flat with a rubber insert, so that's what happens on 68s at those 2 left and right side locations, nothing to do with the plastic bushing missing
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,057
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From: BC
DUB is correct and with the guide hole bushings missing you can see how the stop bolts, minus the protective caps, moved in and out and wore down the corner moldings. With the top moving in and out like that I bet the window seal on your side glass t-top weatherstripping leaks lots of air/noise on the highway.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 502
Likes: 37
From: Omaha Nebraska
Couldn't tell you
DUB is correct and with the guide hole bushings missing you can see how the stop bolts, minus the protective caps, moved in and out and wore down the corner moldings. With the top moving in and out like that I bet the window seal on your side glass t-top weatherstripping leaks lots of air/noise on the highway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,149
Likes: 284
From: cary Il
DUB is correct and with the guide hole bushings missing you can see how the stop bolts, minus the protective caps, moved in and out and wore down the corner moldings. With the top moving in and out like that I bet the window seal on your side glass t-top weatherstripping leaks lots of air/noise on the highway.
Last edited by LT-1 kid; Feb 13, 2019 at 08:27 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Granted...but NOT having the bushings seems to be some what foolish due to the guide pin really has nothing at all to aid in staying in somewhat of a correct location.....which was all I was trying to get across.
YES...I was aware that the 1968-1969 (E) era used the domed headed bolts ....but as you can see....GM changed that due to problems....so...unless a person is stuck having to put it back correct for judging...why not get the rubber tipped ones and stop this problem from happening. Especially if new moldings or re-chromed origianls are being installed.
And if that person want to make it correct for judging...have both sets so when it is being judged...put the originals in and when you drive the car..put the rubber ones in....or don't; and live with it.
The molding you have can be repaired and those dimples filled in and then re-chromed.
DUB
YES...I was aware that the 1968-1969 (E) era used the domed headed bolts ....but as you can see....GM changed that due to problems....so...unless a person is stuck having to put it back correct for judging...why not get the rubber tipped ones and stop this problem from happening. Especially if new moldings or re-chromed origianls are being installed.
And if that person want to make it correct for judging...have both sets so when it is being judged...put the originals in and when you drive the car..put the rubber ones in....or don't; and live with it.
The molding you have can be repaired and those dimples filled in and then re-chromed.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Feb 13, 2019 at 07:07 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 502
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From: Omaha Nebraska
Found some
I was able to find a decent pair I think online. I'll report back when I ask you receive them in the mail. Thanks for all the input. I probably won't worry about running a convertible top just yet anyways so I can worry about the types of pens to use later.
Good info!
Good info!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 502
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From: Omaha Nebraska
Actually
Follow up question. There seemed to be some sort of clay under where these corners are. And it's seen on the chrome pieces on many I've looked at.
I'm sure it's supposed to be there is it putty or what? Designed to keep water out? Where do I get it?
I'm sure it's supposed to be there is it putty or what? Designed to keep water out? Where do I get it?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
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From: Charlotte NC
You can use a non hardening sealant instead......such as CRL 7708 This is what I use and it stays gooey and seals very well.
I do not get all caught up in trying to use what GM used all the time due to advances in technology in certain areas of the cars being made today.... often times makes what was used outdated. And it will never be seen anyway....a waste of time using what they used.
Advancements in seam sealers proves what I am saying due to the stuff GM used will dry up can crack and peel away.....depending on the year model. And I ahve seen this clay stuff loose its bold and get hard an allow water to get between it and the metal and a cause it to rust but not leak into the interior.
The stuff I mentioned ...once it touches a PROPERLY PREPPED AND CLEAN SURFACE....it will stick and not pull off of the part it was applied on.
DUB
I do not get all caught up in trying to use what GM used all the time due to advances in technology in certain areas of the cars being made today.... often times makes what was used outdated. And it will never be seen anyway....a waste of time using what they used.
Advancements in seam sealers proves what I am saying due to the stuff GM used will dry up can crack and peel away.....depending on the year model. And I ahve seen this clay stuff loose its bold and get hard an allow water to get between it and the metal and a cause it to rust but not leak into the interior.
The stuff I mentioned ...once it touches a PROPERLY PREPPED AND CLEAN SURFACE....it will stick and not pull off of the part it was applied on.
DUB
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 504
From: myrtle beach sc
Army
Just a heads up. The 68 chrome end corners have a much flatter curve to the shape of the top than the later 69-up ones. The replacement one's have a much higher arc to them and are harder to make them fit right
on a 68. Which has a different (lower) height upper stainless steel trim, without the screw holes on the 69-up cars. Lou.
on a 68. Which has a different (lower) height upper stainless steel trim, without the screw holes on the 69-up cars. Lou.