garrettb

My goal with this thread is to help those out there who had the same questions I did before I started. The guinea pig here is a 1982 with factory power locks. Before this whole project began, I took my doors apart, stripped the latches down to metal and re-lubricated them. Between that and new door lock actuators from Dorman, the key no longer felt like it was going to snap off when I went to lock/unlock doors.

Because smooth operating locks apparently weren't enough for me, I decided to purchase a Viper 4105V keyless entry system. It was around $60 and has remote start capability. I chose this system based on many positive reviews, the price, and the small form factor of the key fobs. They are also extremely lightweight, which is a plus.

The first thing to understand with these cars is the door locks utilize a reverse polarity system. There are no relays, as the current is directed through the switches themselves. This is why when one is disconnected neither door will function. The "master switch" is on the passenger door.



Here is how I powered my power lock relays. This goes through a 25A fuse at the battery.


To begin, I purchased a few fuse holders, and a plethora of 3M wire connectors (Fun fact: I actually work at the site where we injection mold these things). Between that and some spare wire I had from other projects, I was in business. I made sure to heat shrink all my connections. Necessary? Probably not, but I think it looks nice, and the adhesive prevents anything from coming apart.


Here is the harness for the Viper module. This goes through a 30A fuse at the battery.




Because two relays were required for the door locks, they required +12V along with the master control module. In hindsight, I could have gotten away with just one heavy gauge wire from the battery that would feed both, but I had enough wire to run two separate ones.

Because I opted to not utilize the remote start feature of this system, I was able to remove the unneeded wires from each of the harnesses supplied with a small flat blade screwdriver. This greatly cleaned up the wiring inside the car. If you are looking for keyless entry and panic button functionality like I was, the only things you really need to find on your car are the lock/unlock wires, horn trigger, and parking light wire.

Looking through the factory wiring diagrams made my brain turn to much after a while, as that harmonica connector at the bottom of the steering column has quite a few connections. On that connector, you'll find two of the four necessary wires to tap into. The horn wire is black, and you can connect on either side of the connector. My horn output wire on the Viper was (-), which is important because we are tricking the car into thinking that the horn bytton has been pressed and we grounded out the wire. No relay needed here, as the current flows through the existing horn relay. Connect this to pin K on the connector.



For the parking lights, my Viper could only handle a 10A current draw. Keep in mind that there is an on-board relay within the Viper unit for the parking light flash feature. Using a multi meter, I determined that the parking lights drew around 6A, well within the limits of my module. This was the most difficult wire to track down on the car. What you want is the brown wire on the far end of the harmonica connector. This is the wire that receives +12V when the light switch is pulled out halfway. I thought I had a photo of the harmonica connector, but it looks like I forgot to take one. It's pin A on the connector.

As for the power door lock wires, what you want are the blue and black wires that travel from door to door. The relays have to be wired with the terminal 87a traveling TOWARD the master switch in the passenger door. The other side goes toward the motor in the driver's door. If you look up how the inside of these relays works, you'll understand why it has to be wired this way for the switches inside the door to continue to function properly. In my case, because I have a factory anti-theft module, the negative trigger from the Viper unit will indirectly arm and disarm the factory security system. The car cannot distinguish the keyless from a flick of the switch inside the door.



I think that about sums it up... Post if you have questions, but for those looking to add keyless entry, the Viper is a great option. The antenna has a blue light that flashes when locked for "security" I would guess, but because I was going for a stealthy look, I mounted the antenna behind the glove box. Careful with that 3M VHB (very high bond), it takes a lot for that to let go! To gain better access to under the dash, I ended up taking out the driver's seat and AC duct (although I'll admit I haven't figured out how to get it back in). Thanks for reading!




Zip tied and in place!

79L48

Thanks for the write-up! I’ll be referring to it if I ever get there.

C3_DH

I had to go to a Viper reseller to help program a new keyfob about 2 weeks ago (could not locate the "guest" or reset button - it was on my truck when I bought it). Anyway, I was asking about a Viper install on my 76. They wanted $400 to completely install the system on my car. Now, after reading your thread, I might just go buy the thing and install it myself. Thanks for the great write-up!

interpon

thanks @garrettb
this is the latest post I can find on C3..
I am ordering relays as we speak..I think the 79 will not need to have extra traveler wire as the factory alarm only triggers in switches?? locking does not set it only the key on and off on a 79..
I am also thinking of leaving relays in the passenger door and using switch power (already fused for locks) and then only need to run trigger traveler low amperage...?
I am also going to try and see if I can get windows to work in relays too.. below console same deal...
lights I would like but I just cannot see myself cutting into wires as I just cleaned out a mess (early 80's alarm) from original owner..

here are the relays I got.. still pondering what unit.. don't need the start and I like my OE alarm as it works perfect but need key.. wonder if I can arm and unarm somehow/…????



still debating to pull power from battery or locks and windows.. the trigger I can use fuse panel as its low

SwampeastMike

Look up Ready Remote systems. I installed one in my '79 a couple years ago and it works very nicely and did not require relays for the power locks. The horn chirp function also installed without relays. I did use relays to add an ignition kill and remote arming of the very basic factory alarm system to include arming with or without the T-tops installed. I didn't enable the parking light flash feature because it seemed unnecessary and would have required another relay.

The C3 factory power lock wiring harness is an add-on so that makes things much easier! For a basic installation in a '78+ it's easiest behind the glove box as all the wiring you need is easily accessible. If you want to do a start disable via the neutral safety then put it in the center console as you have perfect access to the high-current wiring.

No matter what system you choose don't use wire nuts!

interpon

The C3 factory power lock wiring harness is an add-on so that makes things much easier! For a basic installation in a '78+ it's easiest behind the glove box as all the wiring you need is easily accessible. If you want to do a start disable via the neutral safety then put it in the center console as you have perfect access to the high-current wiring.

No matter what system you choose don't use wire nuts![/QUOTE]

thanks..looking at that one
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/84...page=14#manual

looks like the relays are built-in. Can you explain if you used that system to arm in unarm the factory alarm system and how you did that?
where did you splice the wires for the locks because you have to separate the switch from the locks in the door right anyway?
I don’t need the starter as I have a manual anyway

ntfday

I wish you good luck on your Viper install and operation. I had one, keyless entry and remote start, installed on an 04 Dakota I bought in 2010.It worked fine for the first two years or so. I've gone through 5 remotes and refuse to buy anymore as they are pieces of junk. It will not stay programmed and at the present is absolutely worthless. Shortly it will be ripped out and replaced with a Compustar system.

interpon

not only that they seem to only serving installers and mark up retail 3rd party..
i will look at compustar..
here is where im at...in priority
i want a solid system that can lock unlock..i dont mind doing relays i bought and overkill on amperage..Im thinking i can tap the passenger door with two relays in door run trigger from receiver?

arm factory alarm without using key...i think after staring at wiring charts..the key simply completes a circuit? Then breaks it? Im not sure if this is even possible..

operate power windows from remote...so need a remote that will trigger the relay as long as you press it up and down without buying seperate window units like below, and put relays near switches and use that power as its already fused

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DIRECTE...-/162735255306

Edit..looks like compustar really for remote start..i dont need that and have manual

SwampeastMike

To arm/disarm a '79 alarm all you need is a single pole relay. Use whatever output from the RKE system that gives constant +12V or ground when you lock the doors. What you do is bypass the arming switch in the driver door. Have the relay close contacts when the doors lock and connect the relay contacts to the 20 gauge light blue and yellow wires leading into the door. There's plenty of room to mount relay(s) inside the pillar behind the kick plate.

I had all of the cabin and engine compartment wiring harnesses removed when I added the RKE and other things so that made things easier. The ONLY place I had to tap into the power door lock circuit was in the wiring running between the switches. You cut two wires and make four connections from the RKE module wiring.

Note that the relay coils are energized with the system armed so use relays with the highest resistance (lowest current) coil you can find.

If you intend to leave the car for days with the system armed you'll have to arm it manually with the door key as I don't believe there's any way to use a solid-state relay in this application.

BTW, I wouldn't try a remote start with a carbureted engine as you have to press the gas pedal to the floor once or twice (when things are working perfectly) with a cold engine.

interpon

[quote=SwampeastMike;1601141366]To arm/disarm a '79 alarm all you need is a single pole relay. Use whatever output from the RKE system that gives constant +12V or ground when you lock the doors. What you do is bypass the arming switch in the driver door. Have the relay close contacts when the doors lock and connect the relay contacts to the 20 gauge light blue and yellow wires leading into the door. There's plenty of room to mount relay(s) inside the pillar behind the kick plate.

I had all of the cabin and engine compartment wiring harnesses removed when I added the RKE and other things so that made things easier. The ONLY place I had to tap into the power door lock circuit was in the wiring running between the switches. You cut two wires and make four connections from the RKE module wiring.
his
I think I finally understand.. I may decide to run trigger wire two relays IN the passenger door and tap power and ground from there..still debating.. either will put in console (next to power window switch and relay again) or behind glove box the module as it also has a window function..and trunk pop lead..thinking I can use for up and down windows (even if one is timed low or not momentary)

Note that the relay coils are energized with the system armed so use relays with the highest resistance (lowest current) coil you can find. (good point.. it has NO (normally open) and NC and COM for triggers but still wouldn't work)

If you intend to leave the car for days with the system armed you'll have to arm it manually with the door key as I don't believe there's any way to use a solid-state relay in this application.
as above..

BTW, I wouldn't try a remote start with a carbureted engine as you have to press the gas pedal to the floor once or twice (when things are working perfectly) with a cold engine.
nope L82 manual anyway..

just trying the cleanest install least cuts possible..and cut once.. I am really surprised how you go from name brand..like Viper etc.. to ebay etc..cheap cheap… I wanted good relays to try and bypass claims of internal relays etc.. low amperage..probably made in same factories..tough sledding and poor (few) articles on you tube and reverse polarity for our vintage..
anyway after much late night studying... here is what I bought to play with..and heh its amazon choice right??


never had this tool... thought I would buy it for intended purpose instead of wire cutter/ pliers..

seemed to be best option.. didnt need start.. price wasnt issue but it was cheap!!

Douglas Mariani

I have a Viper system on my 1980 for the last 10 years and it works great.

interpon

Well I appreciate the advice on this..ripped apart passenger door thinking room to drop everything in there..nope..
took put glove box...see the wiring but just couldn’t find a place for relays ( they are fairly large 50 amp..) and the receiver.
i guess I’m just not resdy to hack into wiring after all the 1980’s alarms and wiring I meticulously removed..and im not going to battery if i can help it..
maybe later when I’m in console ill put in relays for windows too..might be more room..
oh well im sitting at 50 bucks..
project postponed......and mulling ideas...and open..

put everything back together and had one of the best drives ever, 32 degrees, clear, ..runs like new no squeaks rattles..noone out but cops..glorious....

still getting a vibration at shifter above 80..always something....
Beautiful "........