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So since my car has been sitting on stands, my calipers are shot. I have rebuilt delco calipers form the chain stores that I was able to get fairly cheap on the front and I plan to get the same on the back. However, I plan to convert the calipers over from lip seal to o-ring. Is there any problem in doing this to the rebuilt delco moraines? Also, where should I purchase my o-ring conversions? With the rebuilt delco moraines all I need is the o-ring, piston, and shield since all the other hardware will be new.
My budget is a little tight after rebuilding my trailing arms, but I also don't want to cheap out on my brakes.
So since my car has been sitting on stands, my calipers are shot. I have rebuilt delco calipers form the chain stores that I was able to get fairly cheap on the front and I plan to get the same on the back. However, I plan to convert the calipers over from lip seal to o-ring. Is there any problem in doing this to the rebuilt delco moraines? Also, where should I purchase my o-ring conversions? With the rebuilt delco moraines all I need is the o-ring, piston, and shield since all the other hardware will be new.
My budget is a little tight after rebuilding my trailing arms, but I also don't want to cheap out on my brakes.
No problem at all converting these to O-ring. Not sure I’d rush to do it, especially if the budget is tight.
I think you can get the conversion kits from Willcox. Probably the best deal given the forum discount. I used to always get mine from Vette Brakes and Parts, but I understand that they’ve closed for good.
So since my car has been sitting on stands, my calipers are shot. I have rebuilt delco calipers form the chain stores that I was able to get fairly cheap on the front and I plan to get the same on the back. However, I plan to convert the calipers over from lip seal to o-ring. Is there any problem in doing this to the rebuilt delco moraines? Also, where should I purchase my o-ring conversions? With the rebuilt delco moraines all I need is the o-ring, piston, and shield since all the other hardware will be new.
My budget is a little tight after rebuilding my trailing arms, but I also don't want to cheap out on my brakes.
If your budget is tight I would stay with the chain store rebuilt calipers. They are relatively inexpensive to purchase and the chain stores offer a lifetime warranty. One thing I learned, is to scan the store receipt and keep it on your computer. The stores are using thermo print paper that over time the receipt is not readable. I have been using silicone brake fluid and usually get over 10 years from the chain store calipers.
I was very happy with my O-ring rebuild kit from CSSB Inc. They have a high-temp kit that uses better O-rings. I haven't track tested it yet, though. The G2 epoxy is still wet in this picture. It dried smooth.
I rebuilt my calipers with O-rings, springs & pistons from VB&P about 4 years ago.I originally bought them from Lone star bak in the Mid 90's I believe and they were already re-sleeved.During the process 4 years ago, I also had them powder coated. One of the best upgrades I've done.
Another vote for the chain store, aka Autozone or Advance, calipers. Bought them once 15 years ago. When they fail, and they will, it's remove and replace. They also exchange my brake pads as the failed caliber soaked the pads.
If I were racing my car Is probably go with something else but my driving style, and as little as I drive her - this worked for me. Don't get me wrong though, she'll stop as good as new!
I like the powder coated calipers but with my stock slotted wheels you can't see the caliper.
Don't cheap out or you'll be doing this job again and again............
I have seen the calipers from auto parts stores either have a mish-mash of seals...yes...some will have the lipped seals in them when the other side of the same caliper is 'O' ring.
Buy what you want.... but I will say I will not sell 'O' ring calipers. I will install them if a customer chooses to buy them and they are on their own due to they can fail also like the lipped seal calipers... BUT...I feel I can tell the difference in the response time in the brake pedal due to the lipped seal calipers react a tad bit faster and g'feel' different ...in a good way....when I ahve both types side by side and check them.
The main thing is that the bearing run-out needs to be SPOT ON along with the rotor run out also OR a problem can begin. Because
thinking' that having 'O' ring calipers allows the tolerances in the related systems be over looked and ignored is actually a foolish thought. And the bearings needs to be set-up to -0- and not the .001 to .008" like the service manual states.
IF you choose to use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid that is up to you. If you use the DOT 3...just keep an eye on it can change it out when it begins to look like iced tea....or don't change it out and let the sludge build up and cause for wear in your caliper sleeves/seals and allow leak to beign. The one fluid that it seems most people feel does not need to be changed UNTIL it is too late is brake fluid....then next is ATF...then coolant.
Also if you go with new calipers it is wise to do something about your master cylinder due to IF your master cylinder had dark fluid in it like coffee...and there is a sludge build up on the bottom....then you can guarantee the valving in the master cylinder is also packed with this sludge....and IF you leave it there...the new caliper seals...and I do not care if they are 'O' ring or lipped seals....in time...thus crap can migrate to your calipers and begin the process of wear and causing a leak.
In hindsight I would just change all of them and master cylinder. Buy as a kit you come out way ahead. I think next time I’d like to try O-rings seals. I’ve got lip seals now easy to rebuild but getting quality seals is a crap shoot
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Calipers
