I read this tread 3 times....did not detect any 'Hate' here....I saw a consensus of good advice.

Like I intimated...there is a TON of things wrong with this car and VERY paltry information...in fact NONE, to recommend it.

Just because it's an LT-1 (so called) means nothing. I saw LT-1 and Big Block in the same thread?????????

price /pictures/ mileage/ condition/provenance are the drivers.

So suppose you could get a LT-1 (preferably not a '72) and you can buy it for say 15k.....and you have to put 2000 hours (of your or others time) and $20k into it...is it worth it?

Not enough info in this tread. No HATE here....just DECADES of experience.

Unkahal

 

What exactly is not preferable about a 72’ LT-1....it is almost the exact same car as a 71’ and some you could get with A/C.....

Jebby

 

Jebby-Sama
I have no particular dislike for a 1972 LT-1....I had one back in the day....as well as a 300HP '69 base....the '69 was faster. I am aware that the 72 LT-1's claim to fame was A/C as mine was equipped. At the time I had three, 69 coupe L-46, '69 300 base roadster and the 72 LT-1., sold the LT-1!

The 72 is not a $100,000 car....much was made about it....with less to recommend it. I'd not kick it out of bed....but I would not froth at the mouth about it either!

All LT-1's are not created equal.

Cheers Unkahal

 

A 72’ ZR-2 with A/C would be a 100k car in my eyes.....
But as far as the three model years go....the 70’ of course was rated 45hp better but the rest of the car was identical.....
Oh well....whatever.....carry on.

Jebby

 

I'm not sure if it's a big block or LT1 I just noticed the heavy duty rear end caps signifying some sort of HP car

 

Jebby-Sama I see your point. I'd rather have bought a '70 and hang the A/C. Bought the 72 with 56k on it for $6000.

My point is given 'performance' as a criteria and 'bang-for-the-buck' I'd rather have a L-46 350/350 with A/c and save myself $70k! The Lt-1 'game' has gotten to be an investment game....not performance/value ratio. My L-46 Dynoed out a 383 hp BTW.

Anyway were all good...they're all C-3's thank God! (And Zora!).

Unkahal

 

Perhaps "haters" was a bit strong, but many on this Forum seem quick to dismiss cars that need work. If the OP can buy an LT-1 body for cheap, and use that as the basis of a restomod, why not? As long as you know you will never get the money back, it might still be a project with value to the OP.

If my wife wants to drop $25k on a full chassis and drivetrain replacement for her 79, I'd be inclined to do it, knowing it makes zero financial sense. Starting with an LT-1, even a 72, would be better. People spend "too much" money on vinyl bumper cars all the time. Why not this car?

You lose money either way, but either the OP's LT-1 is fine the way it is, or it just needs a new chassis. I'm assuming the rest of the car is in good shape.

 

Dear Bikespace.....Here is my 'fear'. Perhaps I'm reading into this thread, MORE than is there.

1. The poster, by virtue of How he wrote his post, is very inexperienced.

There is a great quote " A problem PROPERLY STATED , defines itself" (Mies Van Der Rohe/ Architect)

He did not state anything very well....which leads me to ('gosh! I'm sorry!') make an assumption on his 'replacing the whole gosh-darn chassis skills....a bridge-way- too-far for this poster.
Also, like I said, there were 200 things he COULD have said to make this much clearer to those with vast experience to help him.....he did not.

I do not stroke checks....I do everything myself...from soup to nuts....so I can estimate time and cost very well.

His original post;
I was considering this car to purchase but the seller sent me these pics of the underneath and now I’m not very interested. The seller maintains that this is all surface rust with no soft spots. Would you be concerned with this surface rust? And, do you think it could be cleaned up? Appreciate your input. The car is very likely all original and unmolested.

The two statements in purple cause me concern.....First and foremost no matter WHAT it is....if you haven't put your eyes on it DON'T BUY IT.
There were quite a number of very poor items shown...some mentioned above, which leads me to believe the poster does not know what he's looking at , nor what he's getting himself into. Tremendous oil leakage, bent (UGH! Bubba was Here!) Strut rods, completely shot bushings, leaking power steering, etc etc etc.....this car LT-1 or not, is a complete money-pit and has shown NO LOVE OR TLC EVER! (this must be what the poster means by un-molested! LOL)
I would not take the sellers word on the 'conjecture' that indeed it's an LT-1....show us the engine code and OTHER codes....hence the provenance comment.

I wish the poster well.....in the absence of facts...I'd still say run away.

I have a latemodel as well...and I agree replacing the whole chassis and drivetrain on a $10-15k car is er ah 'unproductive'.

To Bearcatfan....we'll help big-time when you find what you want and post it properly. Go Grumman! (defunct!)


unkahal

 

As I've said before re LT-1s, be very, very careful. I doubt $20K would come close to what this car will take. If you can find my thread on the topic of doing mine, you'll get an idea of what will likely be required. Not covered in the thread is windshield frame repair and paint as that was done years ago. So, for the right price, eyes wide open, if it proves out to be the genuine article with ALL the bits - I'm grinning ear to ear every time I drive mine. YMMV of course.

 

my frame looked like that, i thought it was just scaley but solid... that's until it was dipped and blasted, once i got it back i was ordering repair pieces, you never know the true condition untill you go digging, hitting, blasting. i wouldn't take a chance on driving a car with a rusty frame especially a vette. oh yea and birdcage is next

 

Have him pull the kick panels and take a picture of the body mounts
Get a picture of the frame at the kick-up area right in front of the rear wheels
Get a picture of the body mounts up behind the rear tires to make sure those aren't rusted out
If he's willing have him pull the passenger side lower dash pad and have a look at the windshield pillars

I've looked at cars that have surface rust that could be cleaned up with a wire wheel and black rustoleum. What concerns me about this particular car is the rust up on the higher areas of the frame ... near the gas tank for example. The cars i've seen with light rust in the areas i described above did not have much if any rust up that high. If this car is rusted that bad that high i wonder how bad the other rust prone areas are. Proceed with caution...unless you're okay with a frame off