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The 77 here has a washer function switch that is not working. On a 77, there is a piece of trim just behind this switch, and over the tilt mechanism, that might give me a good look at the switch without having to disassemble the column.
See photo below. The tilt lever is the one on the upper left, the washer/wiper/turn is the lower right.
Is there a way to remove this piece of trim without breaking it? I have seen pictures of it removed, but nothing states how to do it correctly. I have already removed the tilt lever, and some gentle pressure on various areas of the trim has not shown any obvious way to remove it.
The 77 here has a washer function switch that is not working. On a 77, there is a piece of trim just behind this switch, and over the tilt mechanism, that might give me a good look at the switch without having to disassemble the column.
See photo below. The tilt lever is the one on the upper left, the washer/wiper/turn is the lower right.
Is there a way to remove this piece of trim without breaking it? I have seen pictures of it removed, but nothing states how to do it correctly. I have already removed the tilt lever, and some gentle pressure on various areas of the trim has not shown any obvious way to remove it.
And advice you have is appreciated.
There are two pieces that fit together. The tilt lever cover has tabs on it that fit under the turn signal cover. The turn signal cover has to come off. Some disassembly of the column is going to be necessary. On my '81 the turn signal lever pulled straight out but is was hard. It has a tab on it.
Have you used Willcox Corvette 1977 Wiper/Washer troubleshooting diagram to determine the switch is where the problem is?
Link:http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...witch-testing/
Even if you could remove that trim like you want, the washer contacts of the switch would be facing inward and likely not accessible...
Washer Contacts 1977 T&T Switch red arrows:
Yes, already verified it was the switch.
The washer pump is new and bench tests fine. All wires are continuous between the steering column connector and the pump. As noted in the diagram you linked, #4 does not get power.
FYI, you do have to tear down the column to get to the piece of trim. I have no idea how the guy in the YouTube video removed it, but I’m sure he broke a few parts doing it.
One of the wires was broken at its crimp, and that was the problem. I fixed it and have reassembled most of the column. Once the new insulator piece arrives I will finish reassembly and be good to go.
FYI, you do have to tear down the column to get to the piece of trim. I have no idea how the guy in the YouTube video removed it, but I’m sure he broke a few parts doing it.
One of the wires was broken at its crimp, and that was the problem. I fixed it and have reassembled most of the column. Once the new insulator piece arrives I will finish reassembly and be good to go.
Happy you solved the problem Was it the Dark Blue wire that broke off? I have heard about this happening a few times and believe my 77 has the same problem. Did you just solider the wire to the eyelet, also did you add a piece of heat shrink around wire and eyelet? I have seen some newer produced switches that they added it.
If the video you watched was a 2 part and a white 77 that guy mangled that poor switch and trim piece!
Yes, it was the dark blue wire, same as the all-thumbs repair guy in the YouTube video.
I could not get the original wire crimp to open up, and didn't want to break it.
I thought about soldering it, but as you know the eyelet is riveted into a plastic board which I did not want to melt.
I experimented with options, and ended up using a bullet crimp connector. I ground down the pointed end, then opened it up slightly. In reality it's not a round piece but a 3-sided piece.
I then crimped the large end of this modified connector over top of the original crimp, and verified continuity.
After putting shrink wrap on the blue wire I slid that into the wire end of the bullet crimp, and crimped it in place. I then slid the heat shrink over it and heated it in place.
There was some of the crimped bullet connector still visible, so I used some self-adhering tape around that to seal it, and used a bit of heat to make sure it stays.
Now the new crimp will not fall off, and the blue wire should not break. It's seemingly much sturdier than the original setup. And, there is continuity of the blue wire all the way to the plug which it did not have before.
The insulator appears to be arriving today. If so, I might have the wheel back together this evening.
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1977 steering column trim removal
Was it the Dark Blue wire that broke off? I have heard about this happening a few times and believe my 77 has the same problem. Did you just solider the wire to the eyelet, also did you add a piece of heat shrink around wire and eyelet? I have seen some newer produced switches that they added it.
