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Heater Core Bypass

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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 01:27 PM
  #21  
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This is what I used:

Gates Hose Adapter



The adapter is heavy duty plastic and it's been on there for years without any issues.
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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 01:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Now you just have to pay your bill.

Statement code # M4A3E2.
Heater Core By-Pass issue.
Result: Resolved.

That will be $119.
How do you wish to make your payment?
Monopoly dollars work?
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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 03:53 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by M4A3E2
Monopoly dollars work?
Only if they are "Un-Marked Bills." No funny stuff now.

And ps,
That shade of green you have on your Vette is outstanding. GM really out did themselves with that color.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 25, 2019 at 03:55 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 05:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Bergerboy
I just added a shut-off valve to the hose inlet to the heater core (from the water pump).
I used a lever ball-**** brass valve from the plumbing aisle at H.D., the kind with barbed hose fittings, and used stout clamps on both sides.
My goal was not to permanently bypass the heater, but just be able to shut it down during the hot summer months. (my problem is somewhere in the mode door area, where I can't get the hot air flow to stop, even with fan off and the mode set to OFF).
This gives me the ability to turn it back on in the cooler driving months.
To do this, you need to make sure you've got good radiator performance currently, since the system may rely on the help of the heater core to disperse heat in the event of an over-heating condition.
Shutting off the flow between the water pump and the heater core won't affect the engine cooling and water flow under normal conditions, as you're just bypassing that loop.
I also make sure I open it up each season to make sure I don't have stagnant fluid in the core long enough to promote corrosion.
I don't have any photos currently, but I did place the valve down low and close to the firewall for low visibility.
My only regret was not using the turn-**** style of valve, as the lever type is a little more obvious, and has a hint of "Bubba" to it!!
I am thinking of doing the same thing...can you please post a picture of the valve you used or the one you would have liked to use.

Thanks,
Redvette2
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Old Apr 25, 2019 | 05:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Only if they are "Un-Marked Bills." No funny stuff now.

And ps,
That shade of green you have on your Vette is outstanding. GM really out did themselves with that color.
Thank you! I'm a big fan of it too, second only maybe to pewter silver imo
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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 09:39 AM
  #26  
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RedVette72:
Here are the pictures of what I've got currently.
Works well in the summer, preventing the hot water from flowing to the core, keeping the interior cooler. And I turn it to open in the fall and spring to keep me toasty.
What I would have preferred, was the kind shown from the home depot ad, with the **** handle instead of the large lever. But I think those are intended for gas shut offs not water.
Good luck!




Last edited by Bergerboy; Apr 27, 2019 at 09:54 AM.
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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 11:08 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bergerboy
I just added a shut-off valve to the hose inlet to the heater core (from the water pump).
I used a lever ball-**** brass valve from the plumbing aisle at H.D., the kind with barbed hose fittings, and used stout clamps on both sides.
My goal was not to permanently bypass the heater, but just be able to shut it down during the hot summer months. (my problem is somewhere in the mode door area, where I can't get the hot air flow to stop, even with fan off and the mode set to OFF).
This gives me the ability to turn it back on in the cooler driving months.
To do this, you need to make sure you've got good radiator performance currently, since the system may rely on the help of the heater core to disperse heat in the event of an over-heating condition.
Shutting off the flow between the water pump and the heater core won't affect the engine cooling and water flow under normal conditions, as you're just bypassing that loop.
I also make sure I open it up each season to make sure I don't have stagnant fluid in the core long enough to promote corrosion.
I don't have any photos currently, but I did place the valve down low and close to the firewall for low visibility.
My only regret was not using the turn-**** style of valve, as the lever type is a little more obvious, and has a hint of "Bubba" to it!!

Here is a picture of the similar setup in my 1973 L82. I removed the green lever style handles and turn the valves with pliers. I put the nut back on the stem to keep things in place.
Fran

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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 01:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Blue73Shark

Here is a picture of the similar setup in my 1973 L82. I removed the green lever style handles and turn the valves with pliers. I put the nut back on the stem to keep things in place.
Fran
Looks good!
But i might offer that the 2 valves are somewhat redundant. If you cutoff the inlet flow, nothing will be needed to stop the outlet flow. And I don't think there's any risk of backflow.
FWIW.
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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 05:33 PM
  #29  
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[QUOTE=Bergerboy;1599300609]RedVette72:
Here are the pictures of what I've got currently.
Works well in the summer, preventing the hot water from flowing to the core, keeping the interior cooler. And I turn it to open in the fall and spring to keep me toasty.
What I would have preferred, was the kind shown from the home depot ad, with the **** handle instead of the large lever. But I think those are intended for gas shut offs not water.
Good luck! ......................[QUOTE]

Thanks for the pictures....I think I will go with the metal one.

Redvette2
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