Hey everyone, my first post here! from London, ON Canada. My dad and I are looking to buy a 1978 C3 in our area. Never owned a C3 so do have some questions. I've been emailing the seller and he has been very helpful with my questions. I thought I would ask the community here their thoughts on this car. The car has almost 78,000 KM (48,466 miles), 350ci V8, automatic, numbers matching. A/C, PS, PB, PW, PDL, rear defrost, among some other options. Repainted. Owner says the vehicle runs and drives great. BFG tires show a bit of wear but nothing serious. New calipers/pads, alternator, and water pump.

I emailed the seller asking for some photos of the body and frame. Here is where I need some help. Been getting some mixed reviews about it so any advice would be appreciated!!

Just looking for honest opinions and thoughts on the body of the car.

Thanks!

 

The headlights are not sitting flush in their openings- could be a sign of rust or bodywork at one point. Take a closer look. Perhaps that is why it was repainted? That rear body mount looks awful. Rubber bushings front and rear are dry rotted. If you can buy it cheap enough, it might be fun getting her back into shape. The frame does not look too rusty. Check the floors for rust. Do you have pictures of the windshield frame? Also see if the main seal on the engine is leaking and if the rear end is leaking. Welcome to the forum!

Good Luck!

 

I agree with the headlight issue and the underbody isn't the best.
Lots are coming up for sale this time of year, it took me 3 months to find mine.
No need to rush.

 

this thread is very good for teaching what to stay away from. orig opening post was deleted, but it is found as a quote in post 107. READ. then go look at the cheap ones near you for further instruction in what to avoid. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ules-for-buyin

 

Welcome to the Corvette Forum, I hope you find the car of your dreams and that we are able to help you with your purchase and restoration or repair of whatever you buy.

First and foremost I suggest you have the car inspected by a Corvette knowledgeable person local to your area or local to the area where the car is located. There are subtle signs on all cars of items that may not be obvious to you or your dad that will jump out at a person that knows the cars well. The #4 body mount you have in one of the pictures is toast. Dry rot rubber and rusted badly metal; worth a deeper diver to understand the damage that may be above the mount. If #4 is that bad then you need to look at #2 and #3 body mounts to make sure they are not toast as well. If the seller is a forthcoming and honest person you will be able to remove the kick panels from inside the car and look under them at the #2 mounts. If he doesn't let you look at them then maybe keep looking for another car.

Might be the angle but the rear appears to be riding high above the rear tires. Is the spring original to the car? Car was painted with the body remaining on the chassis, that is clear by the engine bay over-spray and the body mount condition, so you have to get under the car to really know what is going on up and inside the channels. Get familiar with all the terms too, like the birdcage, it is important to know what is hidden and where to look for it.

There is a plate inside the drivers side door well, forward, that tells you the original body color and interior color and material in the car. Locate that plate and take a picture of it. Also, the only way to know it is numbers matching is to verify the codes of the engine; transmission; A-Pillar; and frame. Also, that plate I mentioned will tell you the original car color and interior. If those have been changed then it is not numbers matching. Unless you do this yourself (or have an inspector do it) you are trusting the sellers word that it is numbers matching. Next question should be are the carb; alternator; and other parts date coded correct for the car or after market replacements.

Buying your first Corvette can be an exciting adventure. I'd like to see you be just as happy with it one year after your purchase and not regretting your purchase decision. Take your time, be thorough, get some assistance, and have fun with the search.

Good luck to you and again, welcome to the forum.

David Howard
AllVettes4Me

 

I agree with what has already been said. Also, though I have seen rough looking low mileage cars, I would be very suspect of this being a 48,000 mile car.

 

add a 1 in front of the odometer reading

 

Thanks for the heads up! Thats a great point as to why it may have been repainted. I will ask for photos of the windshield frame, heard the birdcage is a key area to inspect. We are not expecting a perfect 10/10 car, this car is selling under $10,000 with a full safety done. so thought i would see what everyone on here was suggesting! thanks again. I'll keep you posted

 

Thanks for the reply and help! we are in no rush for a C3, this one stood out to me but after the underbody photos your guys' suggestions I am rethinking. Again, not expecting a perfect vehicle but good to know what issues this one has.

 

Thank you so much!!!

 

Wow! thanks a lot. I'll keep an eye out for that plate when i go to see it in person. Thanks for the tips and ill keep you guys posted!

 

He did assure me it was 48k Miles, but yes i agree something to be cautious of for sure. Thanks for the reply

 

I just flipped 60k on my '72. My frame, suspension, engine bay, etc. looks like new compared to what you are looking at. I've had mine for 45 years now so I do know that it's original. I'd say that car has 148k rather than 48k. You'll really be able to tell when you see the interior. Make darn sure you have someone in the know check out the birdcage and the body mounts. Good luck and don't spend too much. There are lots of rubber bumpers around so don't jump at the first one.
Duane

 

Looks like a nice car. There's a lot of work needed for cleaning the chassis and engine compartment. But it appears that your seller is relatively honest (surface rust not painted to cover it up).

Do you have any pictures of the interior? Pedal and carpet wear would be better indicators of vehicle total miles. With lest than 50K miles, there should not be any significant pedal wear (not worn away on the lower-right corner of the brake pedal).

Ask how long the present owner has owned the car. If many years, ask how it has been stored. The amount of chassis rusting would indicate that the car has had significant use in wet and/or slushy conditions. Someone would need to check the integrity of specific areas on the frame before I would consider buying the car. But, if the frame was solid and the brakes/suspension, steering and drivetrain were in decent condition, the car would interest me [if I wanted to buy a '78 C3]. IMO, the car in the photos would be worth about 15% less than a car with very light surface rust on the frame....assuming there are no 'rotten' areas in the frame.