C4 Blower Motor Install Info
While this may seem like a big project due to the information below, it's really not, I'm just sharing those odd details of the job that people seem to forget or omit when talking about it.
The advantage of swapping to a C4 blower motor is that the "squirrel cage" has more blades and they are at a steeper angle, so it moves more air making your AC and heat systems more efficient.
I used an '84 C4 blower motor and "squirrel cage" for this project. The '84 blower motor is a single pole connector and a ground tab on one mounting screw just like the stock C3 fan, so no wiring hacks are needed. (If you can find an '83 Corvette blower motor, buy it, because they are very rare
)FYI - Regardless of what you read here on the forums, the C4 cage will not work on a C3 fan motor due to the depth / shape of the C4 cage. The C4 fan motor has a unique shape to accommodate the cage. Because of this, don't order just a C4 cage and expect it to work on your C3 fan motor. Tried this and it's a no-go.
Since I ordered the cage first and then ended up picking up a blower motor after the fact, I'll list the part numbers that I used here:
Cage / Wheel: ACDelco 15-8418
Blower Motor: Murray PM140
Spacer: Since the C4 cage is longer than the stock C3 cage, it sits too deep into the evap core case, and would rub on the firewall. Because of this, you need to make a spacer which mounts between the fan motor and the evap core case. I saw a BIG variety of recommendations on this from 1/2" to 2" in thickness.
- What I found to be accurate is a 1" thick spacer which put the fan at exactly the same depth as the stock C3 fan.
- For the spacer, I ordered a 1" thick plastic chef style cutting board from Amazon for $18 and cut the spacer from that. Worked great. Easy to cut, shape, drill, sand and paint.
- I chose to mount the spacer using the stock fan mounting holes (just get longer screws), and then offset the fan a few degrees on the spacer, and used separate screws to mount the fan into the spacer. This way, I can replace the fan motor if needed without having to remove and then re-align the spacer in the very limited space we have to work with under the passenger fender.
Fan motor cooling tube: (FYI - Yes, you need to have this cooling tube installed or you'll cook the fan motor quickly due to overheating)
I ran into two issues with this and ended up purchasing a used C4 cooling tube off of Ebay. I used this in combination with the stock C3 cooling tube.
- First issue - the hole in the C4 blower motor where the cooling tube snaps into place is smaller than a C3 so the C3 cooling tube won't attach to the blower motor.
- Second issue is it is clocked differently. The C3 hole is in the 6 oclock position, and the C4 is in the 9 oclock position, so the C3 tube won't reach the new location.
If you ever decide to go back to original, just remove the C4 fan and spacer and put a standard C3 fan and a stock cooling tube back in place.
Hope this helps!
Adam
Last edited by AdamMeh; Aug 9, 2019 at 07:59 PM.





While this is not a particularly difficult project, I did run into quite a bit of incorrect information while researching how to do it, and that led to several delays and parts purchased that I could not use. That was the main reason I wanted to post this up - so others could avoid the same problems I had.
As mentioned, the car can be put back to original if needed.
Last edited by AdamMeh; May 9, 2019 at 09:30 AM.





I'm sure it's just a matter of preference on what is acceptable to you. If you're comfortable driving your car that way it is it's all good. You know the old saying "If it isn't broke, don't mess with it."Part of this decision for me is that fact that we're putting in a completely new factory AC system front to back and since I had the evap case out of the car, now was the time to get it done.
Last edited by AdamMeh; May 9, 2019 at 11:29 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
This subject has always confused me, as the C3's -- when NEW -- blew plenty of air. In fact, it was very rarely required to have the blower set to HIGH position, because it has so much airflow. But, I know that, with age, things begin to change. I have always suspected that the major contributors to the "low airflow" syndrome were the following:
1. Leaves & debris collected in the air plenum so that it blocked most of the air the blower was TRYING to push;
2. Bad grounding of the blower motor. The grounding is accomplished with a simple metal tab the is assembled under one of the blower mounting screws. If the various metal interfaces between the wire and the blower housing are dirty, painted, corroded, etc, adequate current will not reach the motor. ;
3. The original blower motor has been replaced by a cheap, poorly designed replacement motor...which does NOT have the capabilities of the original motor.
But, that's just my "suspicions". If someone feels it necessary to go to the C4 blower motor 'fix', your write up is certainly a good model to use.
This subject has always confused me, as the C3's -- when NEW -- blew plenty of air. In fact, it was very rarely required to have the blower set to HIGH position, because it has so much airflow. But, I know that, with age, things begin to change. I have always suspected that the major contributors to the "low airflow" syndrome were the following:
1. Leaves & debris collected in the air plenum so that it blocked most of the air the blower was TRYING to push;
2. Bad grounding of the blower motor. The grounding is accomplished with a simple metal tab the is assembled under one of the blower mounting screws. If the various metal interfaces between the wire and the blower housing are dirty, painted, corroded, etc, adequate current will not reach the motor. ;
3. The original blower motor has been replaced by a cheap, poorly designed replacement motor...which does NOT have the capabilities of the original motor.
But, that's just my "suspicions". If someone feels it necessary to go to the C4 blower motor 'fix', your write up is certainly a good model to use.

Adam
Last edited by derekderek; Aug 3, 2019 at 07:10 AM.
If that is really the case, it would make sense to buy a 'real', over-the-counter GM blower for a C4 (if you can still get them at dealer service parts), then do what is necessary to marry it up to the C3 housing. I'm pretty sure that you can't buy any new OEM C3 blower motors.
Thanks for the share
We're also in the triple digits here pretty regularly. I've been stalling on this upgrade for my '77 Cheyenne, but after reading your post, I'll do it this week.
Let me ask you this, did you just order a blower motor from your local parts store or did you buy it from one of the Corvette vendors?
Greg

Thanks for the share
We're also in the triple digits here pretty regularly. I've been stalling on this upgrade for my '77 Cheyenne, but after reading your post, I'll do it this week.
Let me ask you this, did you just order a blower motor from your local parts store or did you buy it from one of the Corvette vendors?
Greg

Nice truck! Hopefully this will help a little, although I don't know if the fan from your truck is the same as the original C3 when referencing the cooling tube location and fan depth. You'll want to check the depth of the squirrel cage before you make the spacer. The fan motor and cage I used is just a new one I picked up at a local parts store - nothing fancy.
Good luck with your project,
Adam
and 2 - wood will deteriorate, hold moisture and warp when it gets wet. The plastic spacer should be good for years.Thought I'd share a photo of what I found when I took apart the evap case. To be fair, the fan motor never did work in our '77 because of bad wiring, so I don't know the effect of all this debris, but it certainly couldn't have helped anything.

The orange silicone was a previous owners solution to mounting the fan.
Last edited by AdamMeh; Aug 5, 2019 at 11:22 AM.
















