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Old May 16, 2019 | 08:17 PM
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So I have a numbers matching 71. The alternator is failing and it is the original. Should I have it rebuilt or just get a replacement?
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Old May 16, 2019 | 08:56 PM
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Rebuild it yourself. YouTube. Cheap easy to do. Correct alternator frames are worth a little bit bit worth more to orig car.
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Old May 16, 2019 | 09:13 PM
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Rebuild, rebuild is the only logical choice. If you don't want or can't I would at a minimum save the alternator for future restoration. Ike
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Old May 16, 2019 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by general ike
Rebuild, rebuild is the only logical choice. If you don't want or can't I would at a minimum save the alternator for future restoration. Ike
Don't do what I did 44 years ago!
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Old May 17, 2019 | 01:01 AM
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Agree you should rebuild it. I used to do this as a 'side' business for my show car friends. When you take it apart, bead blast the case and shoot it with a light coat of satin clear. That way it won't oxidize and will continue to look great. As mentioned, youtube will show you the ropes. Replace the brushes, bearings, etc. Not hard at all. And any of the major auto parts stores will spin test it for you after you're done - and they'll generally have the brushes and bearings too. Have fun!
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Old May 17, 2019 | 11:24 PM
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Ok I did it, but my altimeter isn't showing a positive charge state. If I turn the lights on it goes decidedly negative. Essentially, my cleaning and inspection didn't change anything. The brushes looked fine. bearings were good. Do I have a regulator someplace in the car. ? what else could it be?
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Old May 18, 2019 | 06:54 AM
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1100950 alternator just sold on ebay for 225$. whatever you do, don't turn it in for a core charge when you get a new one.
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Old May 18, 2019 | 06:58 AM
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the regulator is the white thing the 2 pin plug goes to. the little black thing on top is a diode trio. check that with an ohmmeter for e current flow only one way on all 3 legs. did you get a new regulator? now, there is a little tab on the regulator. you can touch a small nail to it and ground it. to case while engine is running. that will start it at full charge. about 5 minute mark he has a decent inside view of alternator. you can see the little tab on the regulator to ground. also note the 2 regulator screws that have insulator sleeves on them. 3rd has to not be insulated.
long as you are going back in, https://www.ebay.com/p/Delco-Alterna...d=302341259519

Last edited by derekderek; May 18, 2019 at 07:10 AM.
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Old May 18, 2019 | 09:03 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. Your right, I should just replace all of it. Although I wonder if it just needs a poke to get going. I am restoring it. It hasn't been run in decades.
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Old May 18, 2019 | 09:15 AM
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The tab your refering to is on the bottom of the regulator? Ground that for a moment and it will also 'excite' the alternator? Could try that without taking it apart again...
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Old May 18, 2019 | 10:02 AM
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Well that didn't help. I get a brief positive reading when I start the engine. Then it goes negative. Turn the lights on, goes to -5, -7.

Parts are ordered.
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Old May 18, 2019 | 12:33 PM
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I've never heard of a "numbers matching alternator" . I like the chrome alternators...
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Old May 18, 2019 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stev-o
I've never heard of a "numbers matching alternator" . I like the chrome alternators...
That would be the correct stamped part number, amp rating and build date on the front case along with the ink stamp, with non bead blasted housings.
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Old May 18, 2019 | 12:57 PM
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OP, IO would contact Ken Bruno Motorsports and have yours restored. He did mine about 6 years ago, and it still looks new and works flawlessly.
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