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Hey there's anybody familiar with vacuum leak with possible headlight switch problem my headlights light up but they don't open up in the actuators look pretty new in the hoses look okay I was wondering if this might be a headlight switch problem
But I also noticed that my motor is running a little rough and when I pull one of the hoses out near the intake manifold and put my finger on it the motor Smooths out so I'm not sure?
thanx
dan
Last edited by Danny Halperin; May 29, 2019 at 09:59 PM.
Can you say vacuum leak? Good looking hoses leak all the time, get a vacuum gauge and check each hose for leaks. Don't stop with the 1st leak either, check all your hoses and devices.
Absolutely!! Just throw a thousand or two at some re-engineering work on your headlamps...when all you need is a vacuum gauge, some squeeze clamps, and a little bit of knowledge about how the SIMPLE vacuum system works. I have to laugh every time I read about someone who has converted their C3 headlamp system into a C2 design.
Absolutely!! Just throw a thousand or two at some re-engineering work on your headlamps...when all you need is a vacuum gauge, some squeeze clamps, and a little bit of knowledge about how the SIMPLE vacuum system works. I have to laugh every time I read about someone who has converted their C3 headlamp system into a C2 design.
Couple Thousand? I have never seen this project go over, maybe 800 and mostly around 4 or 500. Maybe it's funny because that cost is not true?
Absolutely!! Just throw a thousand or two at some re-engineering work on your headlamps...when all you need is a vacuum gauge, some squeeze clamps, and a little bit of knowledge about how the SIMPLE vacuum system works. I have to laugh every time I read about someone who has converted their C3 headlamp system into a C2 design.
Well I guess you can laugh at mine, because I plan on converting to electric headlights, even though the vacuum ones are working fine. I guess new cars should go back to vacuum lights too, right? (I know, pop up lights ended after the C5). However simple you perceive the vacuum system to be, electric is simpler. And, if there ever is a problem, it's much easier to fix.
Last edited by C3 Stroker; May 30, 2019 at 04:38 PM.
The only significant difference between the electric headlamp system and the vacuum system is that one uses electrons and one uses the absence of air pressure. Both use valves, switches, and transmission lines (rubber hoses vs. wiring). If you compare the two circuits...component to component...they are very similar. Why did GM choose to go 'back' to vacuum when they had just completed a production run (C2's) with electric system? Well, cost was the biggest reason; but the second reason was warranty expense. The vacuum system was more reliable and less trouble to maintain--plus no chance of shorting anything out and/or causing a fire.
Many of these 40 year-old systems have worked well over the years. But, even rubber hoses and valve seals get old/wear out over decades. Problems solving a vacuum system is about the same as doing same for an electric circuit: multi-meter vs. vacuum gauge; segment an electric circuit to locate a current drain vs. clamp off a section of hose to locate a vacuum leak; etc, etc.
It's just no anything folks have learned from a mentor nor searched for info on their own. If they took a couple of hours to read up on basics of vacuum systems and some simple testing methods, no one would bother removing the stock systems.
Now, getting decent replacement parts is a problem these days....but that's the case with electric AND vacuum systems.
The only significant difference between the electric headlamp system and the vacuum system is that one uses electrons and one uses the absence of air pressure. Both use valves, switches, and transmission lines (rubber hoses vs. wiring). If you compare the two circuits...component to component...they are very similar. Why did GM choose to go 'back' to vacuum when they had just completed a production run (C2's) with electric system? Well, cost was the biggest reason; but the second reason was warranty expense. The vacuum system was more reliable and less trouble to maintain--plus no chance of shorting anything out and/or causing a fire.
Many of these 40 year-old systems have worked well over the years. But, even rubber hoses and valve seals get old/wear out over decades. Problems solving a vacuum system is about the same as doing same for an electric circuit: multi-meter vs. vacuum gauge; segment an electric circuit to locate a current drain vs. clamp off a section of hose to locate a vacuum leak; etc, etc.
It's just no anything folks have learned from a mentor nor searched for info on their own. If they took a couple of hours to read up on basics of vacuum systems and some simple testing methods, no one would bother removing the stock systems.
Now, getting decent replacement parts is a problem these days....but that's the case with electric AND vacuum systems.
Well, the vac system does work well when it works. Not knocking it as far as function......the lights come on. But I personally like the convenience of being able to turn on my lights (or wipers) without having to start the car. I have "read up" on the vac system basics and own a Mity-Vac as well as a voltmeter. But for electric lights you don't need both if there's a problem. The vac system has too many "pinch points" as well as electrical contacts for problems to occur. Glad you're well satisfied with the stock vacuum system. I hope you never have a problem. For me, changing it out is a personal preference, and is definitely a simpler solution. Some of us even change out a perfectly good 350 engine just for better performance (imagine that).
any suggestions in checking vacuum lines?
thanx man
QUOTE=ratflinger;1599490593]Can you say vacuum leak? Good looking hoses leak all the time, get a vacuum gauge and check each hose for leaks. Don't stop with the 1st leak either, check all your hoses and devices.[/QUOTE]
vacuum lines
[QU2OTE=obas;1599535918]As just a good maintenance step, the first thing I would recommend is getting the $50 kit to replace all the vacuum lines, check valve and splitter.[/QUOTE]
What year is your car? Do you have the pull down switch located just under the steering column. Pulling that down should pop the headlights up (an emergency system in case of loss of vacuum).
No since buying anything until you know what the problem is, but new vacuum hoses on a 40 yr old car can't really be that bad of an investment if they are originals. But, these cars can get real expensive doing that.
The vendors are Willcox, Corvette America, Ecklers, Corvette Central, Zip Corvette, MidAmerica Designs, RockAuto, to name a few....
Thanks bro I really appreciate your reply yes I have an 81 and you're right I don't have a lot of money I replaced a few of them already I replaced all the ones that go to the canister for the evaporation coal charcoal canister now I'm working on the headlights and I bought myself a cheap vacuum hand-held pump going to start figuring out how to use that and start at the manifold entrance into the engine thanks a lot man I appreciate your help!
dan
Also by the way I don't see the override switch underneath the dash under by the headlight switch I don't see it anywhere by the fuse box nothing
gonna have to take the dash apart
Last edited by Danny Halperin; Jun 7, 2019 at 12:00 AM.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
A vacuum gauge is an inexpensive and useful tool when troubleshooting headlight problems.
As you test each hose cut off about 1/2" on each end, (for a snug fit) you might find that the hoses are still good.
Many times the seal in the actuators is bad and needs to be replaced.
Enjoy.