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Been awhile since I've had a C3. Looking for any thoughts you might have pertaining to this car... specifically from a mechanical/electrical standpoint (from what we can see/glean from pics and the listing... I recognize that is limited info, to a degree). I recognize it is not an original car _at all_... I don't care about that.
Several things stick out to me...1) open fuse junction under the hood. Seems a little 'rigged' to me, with significant exposure to the elements, primarily heat. Also seems strange to me that a build to this detail (if it is indeed as advertised) didn't install a rack and pinion steering setup. Obviously, these are things that could be remedied, if desired. 3) "switch panel" on the console behind the e-brake. I'm sure it serves a purpose. Sent a note to the dealer/consigner with no reply yet.
I'm not near the car, or I'd go look at in person.
Wiring looks a bit messy in a couple of spots. Nice car with some money spent. Looks to have a Borgeson box, which many (including myself) regard as a better option than rack and pinion. Seems odd to me to retain factory control arms (with factory camber curve and reduced available caster) and 15" wheels / tyres on such a build, as they'll limit roadholding significantly, but to each their own. Nice car though, just likely to still want some personalisation / improvements and/or kinks worked out, but if it's the basis of what you want (chrome bumper ls3 etc) then it looks like a very good car that will allow you to further improve to your own tastes. There's a lot of work and money in a properly done frame off.
Wiring choices seem amateurish/questionable. Personally makes me question what else is questionable that you can't see. I'm trying to figure out why he screwed down the fuel rail covers. Is the bag hung on the driver side of the engine bay supposed to be a coolant reservoir? Not that there's anything wrong with this but note the fuel hose is routed from pass. side on top of the fused distribution box and across to drivers side. Not sure the reason for the s.s. or chrome accents on the intake (personal preference i know).
As for the steering, i chose to keep the factory setup for now, mines just a street car but i did have to draw the money line somewhere. The car does look clean and overall done well from the pics at least
Wiring choices seem amateurish/questionable. Personally makes me question what else is questionable that you can't see. I'm trying to figure out why he screwed down the fuel rail covers. Is the bag hung on the driver side of the engine bay supposed to be a coolant reservoir? Not that there's anything wrong with this but note the fuel hose is routed from pass. side on top of the fused distribution box and across to drivers side. Not sure the reason for the s.s. or chrome accents on the intake (personal preference i know).
As for the steering, i chose to keep the factory setup for now, mines just a street car but i did have to draw the money line somewhere. The car does look clean and overall done well from the pics at least
Agree with your assessment. Like you said, it makes you wonder what else is under there unseen. The cosmetic stuff (faux chrome cover on intake manifold), or OEM wheels, etc is easy to remedy. But I did notice the rubber fuel line running over the fuse box junction. I didn't see the bag on the driver's side... the pics don't show it well, so who knows? I also don't like the exposed wiring by the fuel tank (presumably for the in-tank fuel pump).
Can you tell if it has off-set rear trailing arms? I cannot tell from the pics.
Thanks for the thoughts. If I get serious, these are good questions to ask or to request additional close up pics. Certainly not cheap to build one of these, I know, which is why at this pricing point I'm mildly interested.
Last edited by WA 2 FST; Jul 27, 2019 at 10:31 PM.
All the big parts are paid for and installed and presumably running. The worries you are describing seem to be just quibbles as to maybe you might have done things a little differently. What really is bothering you? Price? Price seems commensurate with what you are getting.
Looking at this and having done pretty much the same thing, parts wise and price wise the labor component is coming to you free free. So:
Why is the seller selling it? Put a list of questions together and give the guy a call. Phone number included, you'll get a lot from the tone of the conversation
Ask for FaceTime chat at the seller's convenience and go for a virtual walk around and drive.
This car is at a dealer lot as you are aware. Did he buy it at auction somewhere and flipping it? That would be my first question. I'd like to know who built it. Others have pointed out some issues that could be remedied however one that stands out to me it the placement of the CAI right in front of the fans which I'm sure are pullers. This car really should not be driven in the rain.
Over all the car appears nice. Some things do need attention. BTW.....I know of a 68 roadster that you can have for a few grand more
Last edited by Prostreeter1; Jul 28, 2019 at 08:16 AM.
This car is at a dealer lot as you are aware. Did he buy it at auction somewhere and flipping it? That would be my first question. I'd like to know who built it. Others have pointed out some issues that could be remedied however one that stands out to me it the placement of the CAI right in front of the fans which I'm sure are pullers. This car really should not be driven in the rain.
Over all the car appears nice. Some things do need attention. BTW.....I know of a 68 roadster that you can have for a few grand more
Yep... the car is at a dealer, and I've reached out and haven't gotten a warm fuzzy. That is one reason I threw it open to the great group here.
I'm very familiar with the LS-based engines (currently have a TT C5 Z06 and a C6 ZR1), so that is one reason I consider cars like this over the beauty you have... and your car is gorgeous. I also wouldn't pay a dime over $40k for this car (not including my travel/shipping costs), and yours is a lot more than that.
Not too worried about the air filter placement, though. They sent me a walk-around video of it idling, and there was no surging. I would be more concerned with "fan wash" messing with the airflow sensor (b/c you're right, I'm 99.9% sure they are puller fans) than I would be some water with it sitting that high off the ground. Neverthless, the car would only see, at worst, a light shower once in a lifetime.
Last edited by WA 2 FST; Jul 28, 2019 at 03:00 PM.
I like it and would go see it.
Fuse box under the hood needs to be in a water proof box and vented. Exposed like that it odd to me. Also need to address the exposed wires above the right rear muffler.
Looks like the intake is right at the frame and in between the two fans so it may not be messing with the MAF signal.
The switches on the console look like two in the off position and one rheostat. 1st though was nitrous but unlikely. Maybe for the HVAC.
I wouldn't call that a resto-mod. I'd call it an engine swap. Different beasts. Resto-mods have updated suspension, wheels, brakes to modern components etc. This is a stock car with a modern engine installed.
I wouldn't call that a resto-mod. I'd call it an engine swap. Different beasts. Resto-mods have updated suspension, wheels, brakes to modern components etc. This is a stock car with a modern engine installed.
Correct... it is not a 100k build, like what you describe. It is a restored car (new suspension/brakes/steering, but stock specs) with a late-model engine and transmission.
Car looks very nice. If someone gave you a car, you could still spend that amount of money getting it into the same condition as this car appears to be. A new crate LS3 alone could easily run around $10,000 or more considering the cost of the engine, the controller, the wiring harness, motor mounts, etc.
As ignatz mentioned, most of the issues pointed out so far seem pretty minor and could be easily resolved at minimal expense. I'd sure want to someone to explain the switches on top of the center console where my elbow belongs!
IF the engine is healthy, there are no rust issues in the all the usual places, and no major red flags pop up AFTER you do a thorough inspection and test drive, I'd say try to negotiate the price down into the mid to upper $30's and then jump all over this deal.
Car looks very nice. If someone gave you a car, you could still spend that amount of money getting it into the same condition as this car appears to be. A new crate LS3 alone could easily run around $10,000 or more considering the cost of the engine, the controller, the wiring harness, motor mounts, etc.
As ignatz mentioned, most of the issues pointed out so far seem pretty minor and could be easily resolved at minimal expense. I'd sure want to someone to explain the switches on top of the center console where my elbow belongs!
IF the engine is healthy, there are no rust issues in the all the usual places, and no major red flags pop up AFTER you do a thorough inspection and test drive, I'd say try to negotiate the price down into the mid to upper $30's and then jump all over this deal.
DC
I'm a decent shadetree mechanic. I cannot do paint and body... so that is one thing that attracts me about a car like this. i could pretty easily turn this into a full-blown restomod... full coil-over suspension, Wilwood brakes, 17-18" wheel/tire combo (would do that regardless), custom seats and interior. They claim the LS3 is new, and given my experience with and understanding of the LS stuff, you're right... it would easily be $10k + 5-speed trans conversion. Would be relatively easy to toss a nice cam in the crate LS3 and have a 500+hp, extremely reliable, chrome-bumper C3 that, from the pics, looks like it has had a quality frame-off resto done with above average paint and body/trim work.
As you said... nothing gets done without a thorough inspection and test drive. The car is 9 hours from me, but a flight out would be more like 2.
I just saw this car today on eBay myself, and it sure caught my eye. Good luck moving forward with it if you choose. There’s something intriguing about an LS powered C3.