The PO of our '77 purchased several new interior pieces including door panels. The car originally had the deluxe door panels with the chrome trim and carpet at the bottom edge, but the panels he purchased are not the deluxe version. Is it possible to put the trim and carpet on these, or are the panels different in how they are made? I have the trim and it's in nice shape so I would like to use them.

Thanks,
Adam

 

Everything gets transfered over to the new panels

 

[QUOTE=AdamMeh;1599854162]The PO of our '77 purchased several new interior pieces including door panels. The car originally had the deluxe door panels with the chrome trim and carpet at the bottom edge, but the panels he purchased are not the deluxe version. Is it possible to put the trim and carpet on these, or are the panels different in how they are made? I have the trim and it's in nice shape so I would like to use them.

Did just that on my 76. Had the STD door panels and installed the deluxe trim. Had to drill holes for the chrome trim tabs, measure 5 times,and drill once! Not sure if 77 is the same, transitional year.

Suggest you study Corvette America catalog or call them, I believe the base door panel and deluxe door panel are the same except for the chrome trim tab holes

Hope this helps. I glued the trim carpet on.

 

Adam,

As they mentioned above, yes they will transfer without issue. I've always found it best to install the carpet at the bottom of the panel first, this will give a a very good idea of where the lower trim molding goes.

I'm lucky I have a professional Fasco stapler here to use so I start by locating the carpet vinyl strip to the bottom of the panel and then I staple it in place. Once this is completed I pull the carpet up on the panel and glue it. Again I have you at a disadvantage because I use Weldwood glue which is a professional grade interior glue. You can use fast tack trim adhesive from 3-M if you wanted something that will work. You treat either glue like you would contact cement, put it on the door panel let dry, put it on the carpet let dry, then put a skim coat on one or the other and lay it down working it as flat as possible. Once you have have the carpet in place you'll know where to drill the holes for the molding.

Willcox

 

Thanks for the replies! Glad to hear that I can use the trim pieces I have, and it sounds like a pretty straight forward install. Guess I'll get to polishing these up and Willcox, I will check your site for the carpet kit.

Thanks again,
Adam

 

Adam,

What year and color and if you don't find it I'll send you the link.

One other trick that I forgot about that will help you, the screws are different lengths so to get them started you may want to go to the hardware store and get a couple just a little longer then the longest one. Doing this will allow you to pull it in and get the other long screws started. I've forgotten the thread size, but you should be able to go to your local hardware store and pick up a straight screw head that'll help you. Since there are varying size lengths, the shorter ones you can sub out until you pull the molding in. You'll figure it out for sure.

Ernie

 

Hey Ernie,

It's a '77 with black interior. Any tips for drilling the holes? I'll also need to drill the holes for the inside pull handles (PO never installed them).

Thanks again,
Adam

 

How is the fit on the current Corvette America door cards?

I have a set on an older restoration, and they leave a lot to be desired.

Is it worth it to try the Al Knoch ones?

 

Ca retooled the panels a few years back, I have no fitment issues with them since. Actually they fit as good as the originals.

Willcox

 

On the lower moldings I'd drill the holes as small as possible in case there is an error. What you must be sure of is that once you mark where you thing the holes belong, you'll still need to pull the carpet back so the bit doesn't snag the carpet and cause a runner. The next thing to know is that when you drill the hole you'll drill through the inner side first, then you have to drill through the inner portion of the panel. Be very careful that the drill doesn't scoot on the inner panel and take your time. I've seen people drill the first hole have the bit scoot and crew up the inside hole.

On the door pull handles it's another subject. We have a de-burring bit we chuck in a die grinder, it's the perfect size for the hole possibly just a tiny bit smaller than the handle nub...

You must remove enough material so that the handle will fit inside the panel without distortion.

Some people just drill a small hole and then complain the handles don't fit, but the original size hole was the exact same size as the pull handle nub that fits inside. Sometimes you have to heat (blow drier suggested) the panel around where the handle meets the panel once the pull is installed, manipulate the material to get a perfect fitting handle to panel look too... Sometimes you have to install the top, manipulate the fitment and then install the bottom too.... top shows most though and somewhere I'll see if I can dig it up... .I have a picture of us either doing this or the end result. But when we drill the holes (I'm thinking route them might be a better way to say it...) we cut the entire same size hole thought the inner sub straight too. You can probably buy a cheap de-bur bit somewhere close in the right size and while they zing pretty fast, it will make a perfect size hole for you.

Willcox

 

Thanks for the tips Ernie! The ABS backing is a PITA to drill through without the bit getting all squirrly on you. Makes sense on the pull handle holes given the odd shape of the fitment nub. Would I be OK to use a heat gun on the ABS side, or should I stick with a lower temp hair dryer?

Thanks again,
Adam

 

To put thru small holes, I suggest that you use a pencil-tip soldering iron to 'melt' the holes. Drilling might get you into trouble...either having the foam backing get 'chewed-up' and/or getting the vinyl covering to grab the drill and tear/wad-up. As long as the edge of the hole will be covered up by something when the panel is installed, 'melt' them in.

 

Great idea. I used a small soldering iron on the carpet for the bolt holes etc. Worked great - nice clean holes and keeps the carpet from fraying.

 

Charley,

I couldn't agree more and I forgot that Kevin in our shop uses an ice pick and heats it with a micro torch to make the holes in things like dash pads and other items. When putting a hole in carpet he does this same trick with a large awe, it makes a perfect hole and there is no fear of ravel.

E

 

I've got a cheapo (think harbor freight type) one that's only used for carpet, belting, etc. Even works on dynamat but stinks!!!
M

 

If you have manual windows I suggest you cut the hole and put on the window crank spacer (escutcheon?) before you drill holes for the chrome strip so your chrome strip doesn't drift too high and leave a noticeably small gap between the strip and crank spacer.

 

I'll also add that when we did mine, we made up cardboard templates of the chrome strip and wood-grain inserts, then pulled the carpet panels on and marked where they covered with a grease pencil (considerably different than a stock set I had)
Using the cardboard template made marking the hole locations a lot easier than trying to eyeball where the studs would hit since a lot of it is on angles / curves etc and you're trying to "project" where the piece will sit onto the door panel.
Then trimming the carpet back to match the chrome strip afterwards. I've never managed to look at the placement of a stock set of strips so we just made these fit the panel edges as close as possible.





Drilling the first hole into an otherwise good panel is a great feeling

M

 

Thanks all for the advice, pics, and info. I was able to swap over everything to new panels, am leaving off the carpet for now.

In general the panels fit well, as noted needed some new longer screws for about half of the originals to make up for the thickness/shape of plastic backing. Chrome trim strip on bottom not exactly conforming to shape of new panel unless you recess it into the vinyl. A little off on placement but so was my original left, right came out a little better.

I also installed without using the top 2 screws, did not want to make additional holes in the vinyl, the seem to hold fine from the top lip of the door.

Great time to adjust, tighten up, lube windows!

 

What brand is the new door panel, and how close does it match the curvature of the door?

 

I've run mine without the 2 top screws for a couple of decades now without any issues, as long as they fit the contour and you're not yanking on then I don't see much, if any, problems
M