When I tried to use that all thread spring compressor, I had problems with it binding up as the spring relaxed. Following a tip from a long ago poster on CF, I chained the body of a floor jack to the frame. Placed the "palm" of the jack lifting arm under the end of the suspensin lower control arm and lowered the arm with the floor jack, also used the floor jack to recompress the spring. Working with springs scares me and I'm fearless. Someone posted a story on CF about someone losing a couple of fingers replacing springs. Since reducing spring heights requires multiple times of interatively removing/reinstalling the springs to slowly cut them down, I had Guldstrand's Motorsports cut the springs down for correct height. Also, working with the rear transverse spring is so much easier when working with the composite springs instead of the steel spring.

 

Chaining a jack to the frame is a good tip!

I had problems with the all-thread binding up as well, when the a-arm was pivoting. I got around that in the pic above by unbolting all three bolts on the lower a-arm. Only the all-thread is holding it. So it lowers perpendicularly from the spring pocket. NO binding.

It may go back together that way.On a bare frame. But I can't imagine doing this with the car assembled. And that's what I'll have to do at least once to adjust the front spring height on the new springs. Rats!

 

This weeks update. Drilled the rivits off of the original brake rotors. That was a pain with a hand drill. May have to hit up Harbor Freight for a drill press before I do the front two.

The trailing arms are now in the capable hands of Corvette Paramedics. I did not measure the clearance, but the bearings had a lot of play, maybe 10 or 20 thou. And the front T/A bushings were 25% crumbled away. Normal for 90k miles I guess. I am surprised all 4 brake rotors look so good after those miles and 48 years.

The next step was one I was procrastinating about. It was time for my "Mike Rowe Dirty Jobs Day".
Power-washed all the grease off of 25 suspension and frame parts. Lots of grease since every piece of rubber, suspension bushing, and grease / oil seal was shot and leaking on this boy. Steering box, oil pan, rear main, trans tailshaft, all 3 diff seals, and every ball joint. I used purple power, Krud Buster and Zep degreaser. I think the Krud Buster worked as well or better than the others. A long handle nylon scrub-brush, a stainless wire BBQ grill brush, and a plastic scraper were all put to use. The BBQ wire brush I highly recommend.

At any rate, now it's done. I heard a good quote from my C3 forum friend David Howard: "It is much more pleasant to work with clean suspension parts"

So True! But he forgot to mention the paint thinner bath required for the scrubber!

 

One thing I found was helpful years ago, before there were pressures, was to wash greasy parts with hot water.
If you have a sink or if the water heater is in the garage, hook the hose up to your pressure washer or even a garden sprayer from a hot water source.
You would be amazed at what a difference it makes.

 

True! Good idea. Just don't have access to the hot water.
Maybe others would.
The 2000psi cold water pressure washer would take a while to blow the grease off, especially around the ball joints. It was the detergents that really helped clean the metal almost "squeeky clean".
I will bet I could have save a couple hours if I had hot water available!

 

My new best friend (tool):

Harbor Freight $139 10" 12 speed Drill Press

New tools make this work fun& easy! Drilled out the 10 rivits in the front two rotors in about 20 min. Vs the 3-4 hours with a hand drill & dremel last time. The extra pressure and very low 300 rpm speed made all the difference. I got long steel "curls" up to 10 inches long, from a 3/4" rivit. Used a 21/64 to knock the center down to the shoulder & 7/8 to knock the head off.. By taking a third much smaller bit and going in 1/2" the rivits popped out easily with a punch. Without doing that they were too tight.

This one was just barely big enough to handle the front hub. The rear T/A arms I am not sure. I have 7-1/2" between the big drill bit and the base stand as pictured, with the moveable stand swung out of the way. Measure your T/A. Mine are already at the shop.

 

Get you some of these..
they will let you soak in degreaser or evaporust ( or whoever has best vinegar recipe) for days to derust parts (after wire brushing)..
a decent compressor to run a harbor freight grit blaster..garnet works good..amd a hood..can reuse from that blue tarp some..
my a arms fit in those tubs because they conform to parts..
hot water after black hose lays in sun is pretty damn hot..
dawn detergent and la cleaner from dollat store pretty decent and cheap..
assortment brushes harbor freight not bad for brass steel brushed..
some on sale brake cleaner or solvent to degrease when water dont cut it..

 

i soaked almost all my parts in straight vinegar from the grocery store for 2 days, then pressure wash. you wont believe how the rust comes right off. then i will dust them off in the sandblast booth. anything to cut the time down hunched over sandblasting, also keeps the sand cleaner. doing my coil springs was what got my into the vinegar, try blasting one of those it sucks

 

Great ideas!

 

which is why for the price of a NEW USA made (moog) coil spring in the correct improved size already powder coated.. you are miles ahead to buy new.. and they are MUCH shorter to install and remove..by the time you strip, paint, install still not as good as new..

 

can you run a garden hose from bottom water heater flush drain to washer ?

 

Frame is all naked clean & sandblasted. Has been relocated to the frame shop. He said no big deal straightening it.

I'll also be adding the removeable trans crossmember plates I got from a forum member here.

My frame shop guy Alex actually suggested doing some extra welding to strengthen it before I could even mention it! (Great minds think alike.)

So I am going to go for it.

Thank all of you for your advice and encouragement on that!

 

Suspension Dissasembly update:

Removal of the OEM rotor rivits took some serious drilling. Drill press helped a lot.

Used a 21/64 to knock the center down to the shoulder & 7/8 to knock the head off.. By taking a third much smaller bit and going in 1/2"deep the rivits popped out easily with a punch. Without doing that they were too tight.

Removal of the OEM a-arm upper ball joint rivits was done with a cold steel chisel and a BFH to knock the rivit head off. Some od the rivits were still too tight to punch out so a drill hole in the center loosened them up. Then the ball joints and rivits were off. Lower ball joints just unbolted. After 49 years I think it still had 3 OEM ball joints.

Took a pic to remember where the bolt/bump stop stud goes.

Next up was removal of the 8 a-arm bushings. Six of these were original and well rusted in place. It's a tough job. I was making no progress at home. So went to my best friend who a GM tech back in the day when these were new. Only special tool he used was a strong snap-on impact hammer and a variety of bits some sharp some dull. Popped/vibrated each one out. Some took 2 minutes, one an hour. Lower ones were rusted to shaft. One shaft was curved/bent !?!? so we straightened it in a press.

The best part was the final prep for painting, it only took 10 minutes!! We put these in his steel shot blaster machine that he uses for engine blocks and cylinder heads, etc. It sounded like a badly broken washing machine with these tumbling around inside LOL. But they came out with a gorgeous satin finish and are ready for paint and almost no dust. This is so much easier, faster and cleaner than sand-blasting!!!

Next step is painting and re-assembly. I know I enjoy doing things for myself but I am starting to think I am a glutton for punishment. The vendors sell these rebuilt for $500/set all ready to go. I must be saving a whopping $10 an hour. Woo-hoo!

 

Rear Trailing Arms are back from Corvette Paramedics. Beautiful job!

Initially I had very wobbly bearings. Maybe 1/8-1/4" wobble at the wheel. They blue-printed them to 1.0-1.5 thousandths. They grind shims thinner when necessary.
They also found my left rear spindle was too damaged from the worn out bearing, so it got replaced.
I asked them to move my parking brake brackets to the top just in case I ever put some really wide tires on the back behind this LS6 BB (grin).
Now I just have to restore the rest of the car to this quality. Talk about setting the bar high!!!


Next up is restoring the disassembled front spindles, to match the quality of the professionally done rear ones.
Here is my bolt restoration test.
Purple power (or simple green) in solvent spray tank does a good job with any remaining grease.
I gave three parts an overnight soak in Evapo-Rust (from Home Depot) and am very pleased with the rust removal results!


This is three different fasteners with three different finishes.
I am happy with how all three came out.
Virtually no scrubbing, maybe just a little with a nylon brush. No surface scratching/degradation.
But I believe the Zn-Phosphate Bolt went a little more gray than I would like.

Anyone got any other cleaning ideas?
Clear coat to protect?

Taking a road-trip to the Eastwood store tomorrow.
Any suggestions to buy?
They have both a silver-Zinc (tin) electroplating system and a three step metal blackening system (Zn-Ph)

 

Nice.
Are you just rinsing the parts with soap and water after they are degreased
Keep us posted.

 

Yes
Degrease
rinse
de-rust
rinse

 

Slow work at the body/frame shop.
But at least it is mounted on the frame machine!
How do you like the leveling pads/clamps?
The front section looks like it is almost ready for the first pull....

I dented the diff crossmember with only a crowbar and/or a 2 lb sledge so
I am sure he will have no trouble straightening the 1" front frame twist with all this!! The metal is only 0.110" thick.
The front section hanging in the air is where my twist is. (Whole area around the driver's side spring pocket is 3/4-1.0" high).

 

Wow!

 

Interesting, what does the repair cost vs a new frame? Did you find the vin on the frame?

 

Yes the vin is on the frame, near the left rear wheel, and it matches.
Straightening the frame is only a couple hundred $. About 2-3 hours work.
I will easily double that with the extra strengthening/welding. But my BB will appreciate it.
I'll spend $700 powder coating it.
Vs newly refurbished frames can be had around here for $2500 ish.

Taking everything OFF the frame, now that's another story!